semi gloss black
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semi gloss black
I' m restoring a 66 mustang fastback, I need to find the correct semi-gloss black for the engine compartment, I would like to have it in enamel. No spray cans though, too much to spray. Does anyone know where I can get it at? Thanks
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From: green bay, WI
I am not familar with any specific paint for this purpose, maybe ask on some mustang sites what they are using in thier restorations. One option though if you want an enamel is to buy your black enamel and hardener and add flatener to it until you get the semi gloss you are looking for.
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From: Seattle
Lacquer in an engine compartment would be risky business IMO. Too suceptible to the elements found under the hood (gasoline, brake fluid, etc.).
Sherwin-Williams has a line of industrial paints called Polane-T (the 'T' stands for texture). It is a highly durable catalyzed polyurethane that can also be sprayed out to a smooth finish, and when applied in this fashion, leaves a semi-gloss sheen.
Sherwin-Williams has a line of industrial paints called Polane-T (the 'T' stands for texture). It is a highly durable catalyzed polyurethane that can also be sprayed out to a smooth finish, and when applied in this fashion, leaves a semi-gloss sheen.
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I agree with rocket science, the first time fuel touches that lacquer it will at the least ruin the semi gloss look if not melt the paint. Especially brake fluid. I've got a 65 Fastback and we used PPG's Delstar factory black (P/N DAR9000) with Hardener (DXR80), and flattener (DX685). I'm not sure on the ratio though. You can get what's called a P-bulletein on DX685 from your store or online at ppgrefinish.com and it tells you at wat ratio to mix the Delstar to get a semi-gloss look. I've got interior panels, engine compartment, and alot of other pieces sprayed with it and its about 9 years old now. Still looks like new. Or I guess, still looks like old. I'm sure the Sherwin Williams works just fine too.
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PPG Acrylic Primer is the choice I made with my latest project. I stlill need to shoot it two more times. I shot the first few coats with all of the parts removed so I make sure I painted everything black. Now that it is almost all back together, the bumpers will be pulled again and two more coats will be going on.
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Originally Posted by gt350h
I agree with rocket science, the first time fuel touches that lacquer it will at the least ruin the semi gloss look if not melt the paint. Especially brake fluid. I've got a 65 Fastback and we used PPG's Delstar factory black (P/N DAR9000) with Hardener (DXR80), and flattener (DX685). I'm not sure on the ratio though. You can get what's called a P-bulletein on DX685 from your store or online at ppgrefinish.com and it tells you at wat ratio to mix the Delstar to get a semi-gloss look. I've got interior panels, engine compartment, and alot of other pieces sprayed with it and its about 9 years old now. Still looks like new. Or I guess, still looks like old. I'm sure the Sherwin Williams works just fine too.
Thanks all who replied.
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From: Grants Pass, Or.
I stripped them down to bare metal with a chemical striper so it wouldn't affect the grain. Then I cleaned the bare metal parts and scuffed them with a red scotch brite pad. I probably wouldn't use sandpaper as to not cut down the grain. Then I cleaned the panels again and coated the metal with one coat of DP epoxy primer, and painted with the semi gloss black. The DP isn't very thick so it didn't fill the grain. I've heard you can shoot PPG's Delstar right to bare metal too. I didn't think it was a good idea, but the guy that built my engine painted the block and heads with the Delstar right to the bare metal and its still on there. Even around the exhaust ports on the head. He said he's been doing it forever. So if you were really worried about loosing some of the grain I suppose you could shoot the Delstar right to the grained metal.
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From: green bay, WI
same way I did the textured inside doors on a '67 mustang. Chemical stripper, Also sandblasted some areas, scuff pad, epoxy primer and if you paint within the time window on your epoxy you won't need to sand it. There were a couple tiny pinholes of rust, but luckily they were small enough that I could fill them and not really notice.
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