What is better, weld the spiders or the side gears?
#1
#2
#3
sand in the diff? ahhh
weld the spiders to each other then weld them to the carrier
when i welded both my front and rear axles (as well as several of my buddies) all i did was weld the **** outta it! no pre- or post- heat. but DONT quench it, that's asking for cracks. i filled in quite of bit and added some extra metal (ie extra bolts and other misc metal pieces)
i have pounded the hell outta it with 39's, a 460, and a real heavy foot and i have yet to see any cracks!
-cutts-
weld the spiders to each other then weld them to the carrier
when i welded both my front and rear axles (as well as several of my buddies) all i did was weld the **** outta it! no pre- or post- heat. but DONT quench it, that's asking for cracks. i filled in quite of bit and added some extra metal (ie extra bolts and other misc metal pieces)
i have pounded the hell outta it with 39's, a 460, and a real heavy foot and i have yet to see any cracks!
-cutts-
#6
#7
Here is the article from the tech section: https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...d_Spiders.html
Stryder
Stryder
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#9
I filled all the voids between the spiders and side gears then after all that was done i welded them all together. Never touched the carrier. I didnt pre or post heat. but did alternate between sides. And all this with the carrier still in the housing of the dana 60 rear. Like fishy said just weld the hell outta it and make sure there isnt any oil on the metal you are welding, I used NON flammable brake cleaner and an air gun. Mine has held up to a built 466 and 42's without flinching. Also if you weld it in the carrier spend mucho time cleaning it out or say goodbye to bearings.
#11
#12
Originally Posted by stryder
Here is the article from the tech section: https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...d_Spiders.html
Stryder
Stryder
#13
I welded everything to everything in my 9 inch. I've been running it for about a year now with a built 400. 38-33 inch tires, pavement, mud never had a problem. Well it does like to fish tail in the rain, but its alot more predicatable than a locker locking and unlocking. Plus its cheap and you don't have to set the gears up. Was hell on the 1310 u joints, with a heavy right foot. was replacing them about every other month. Swapped up to 1350 u joints and havent had a problem yet. The softer the tires heavier the foot and bigger the engine, will help you find the weekest link. In my case u joints. I will be doing the front d44 soon. just looking for the yokes and driveshaft for 1350s and she is a done deal.
Last edited by kopfenjager; 10-27-2005 at 06:35 PM. Reason: typos
#14
I got it done. First, I took it all apart. I even took the spider and side gears out so I could clean the oil off of everything. Once I assembled the carrirer, I took it to a professional welder with 30 years experience. He did not think that it was a good idea to weld the cast iron case so he only welded the side gears to the spider gears. After it was done he wrapped it in a blanket to let it cool very slowly. The welds are huge and look great. I got it in the truck now I just have to repack my bearings and assemble the brakes. I will keep you posted.
#15
Welding Gear Sets
You really don't have to weld them to death. In fact too much heat and you'll have some cracks. Too little heat and your welds will likely fair. It is probably better to cook it if you don't know what you are doing. At least with a lot of heat you will know the weld will hold. Do remember if your welds break you can just about kiss everything inside of your diff goodbye. Why not buy a good spool or locker? You may be saving yourself hundreds, if thousands of dollars in the long run. Please don't throw your diff in the sand....that is unless you want to chuck it next week.
T.R.Bauer
T.R.Bauer