Yeah I'm going to swap an open hawg head in there. I have spare parts for all my drive train. Bought a truck with a bent frame for 50 bucks, without an engine though. The tire wear is a major issue with a welded diff. The traction is awesome though so I'm fairley certain I will weld the front since it only comes into play when I'm off road or when I grenade the u joints in my driveline, wich I'm sure is also related to the welded diff. I have a third member with an open diff and the same ratio and spline count so thats going in there when I get the time, school and such. I wonder if the welded diff effects fuel mileage, I hope it does cause I need all I can get right now.Thanx.

 

Yeah, it will increase tire wear, unless your refering to the front, and whether or not they disengage from the diff, when out of four wheel drive. But yes indeed the offroad traction added by having it all locked up is sweet. Theres nothing like going to a trail and seeing someone with a big bad 4x4 stuck on some little off angle area, because they lifted a tire or two. I think the welded diff. would slightly decrease mileage. I got a free truck a month ago, a early 80's chevy half ton. It still has the tranny, and transfercase. No engine or bed. With 8 lug axles, the 10 bolt, and 9.5 inch semi-float 14 bolt. 4.11 gears. Now I know the 10 bolt isn't known for being a hero, but its got to be stronger than the 8.25in. IFS on my 04. Same with the 14 bolt. Its not as strong as the full float version, but still stouter than the 10 bolt rear I have. I have 3.73 gears now, and If I swapped the axles out, added a little lift, I could fit 35s without having a gearing issue, and still be able to tow normally. I'm already out of warranty, Just thinking that If I modify my daily driver, what if I screw up. Or if something I do doesn't work well. I don't think that would be a issue, but I work 50 miles from my house. Not to mention the higher the bed is the harder to get stuff in and out. etc. I gotta keep it useful. I have my B2 , and my 2.5 ton. And considering ripping the camper off the motorhome I got, free, its got a 1 ton frame and drivetrain. So much to do, so little time.

 

Yeah, I hear you there, I busted my axle monday, and here it is wednesday and I haven't even broke a bolt loose yet. Not only do I have the rear end to go thru but I got a new torque converter that matches my new cam I have to throw in also. Not only that but my ex-wifes grandmother died yesterday so I'm probaly spending the weekend in Las Angelas. What a week!

 

sorry man, my thoughts and prayers go out to you and your ex-wife/family

-cutts-

 

Yeah, sorry for your loss. I know some guys who be be sad for one way or the other, the loss of your ex wifes grandma, (some guys love their spouses family, some don't) and for the loss of the weekend, (some guys would sad about that)... Either way or both, sorry. No that wasn't really supposed to be funny, but after I read it, it kinda was. Broke ride, and hurt heart. That sucks.

 

Sorry about yer loss, kopfenjager.

Hey Ya'll, I've been watching and reading this thread for awhile. Here's the deal; I have a '78 F150 2wd. I'm not sure which rear end I have. I don't have the tag code with me, but it does not have the houseing bolts on the rear of the housing, but on the front portion that the driveshaft goes into. Now my question is can I perform this same mod on my rear axle? I'm tired of burning rubber on only one side, and in the winter or rain slicked roads one tire for grip stinks. I do use this as my daily driver and have wider, but not taller tires on all four corners. You can see the rubber in my gallery. I spend my 30 mile round trip commute mostly on the highway at 65-70mph. Also, I would like some more traction on the wet boat ramps when launching and retrieving a 16 foot boat and trailer. Thanks for the advice.

 

You have a 9 inch in your 78, and for no more than it costs, I would recommend using a mini-spool instead of welding it- actually would take less work as you wouldnt have to do all the cleaning and welding. I have run the Auburn mini spool from Jeg's (about $65) without breakage in three different vehicles. I have also ran $15 swap meet specials in a few rigs and only had one break, but that was in a 2wd tough truck racer and I was inthe air and then hit the ground while still in the throttle so it was understandable. Anybody have breakage problems(shafts or u-joints) with a welded front 44 on a trail rig??

 

Thanks, wyldstalyn73 !!!!! I'm very green to the rearends and how they work and how to build them up. I think that mini spool idea might be the ticket for me. I just perused ebay and see some for under $50 new. I wonder if I will need the tag code info to find out how many splines I have to get the correct mini spool?

So if I went that route, all I have to do is unbolt the front housing bolts, detach the u joint, and pull the gears horizontally forward, right? Is there any special tricks to getting the gears out to replace the spider gears with the mini spool?

 

Hey, you will also have to pull the axle shafts out, in order to remove the third member.
Your right about unbolting the driveshaft from the yoke. Then before you unbolt the third member(pumpkin, differential, etc.). Jack the tires off the ground. Take the tires off. Pull the drums off the brakes. Their should be some bolts behind the hub flange 4 of them. Unbolt them, then you will either need to tap the backside with a hammer to slide it out. Might need a puller, slide hammer, or I have even chained the axle to a immobile object and used a comealong, and or a truck, to pull the shafts out when they were sticky. Do that on both sides to remove. Then unbolt the third member and pull it out. Then knock out the roll pin holding the cross pin. Then pull the spider and side gears out. Slip the spool in and put the cross pin back in and a new roll pin. Use a new one, I have had several pins shear on me. Then slide back in and bolt the third member in, then slide the shafts back in carefully, then tap carefully and make sure it goes in straight, so the bearing on the end will go in straight. Don't use the axle retaining flange to pull the shaft in. You can very easily bend it, its not strong in that manner. Anyways man, you can bring it down to muskogee on the weekend, and I'll show you how to do it, while I continue on my cage. I've got all the tools needed. Don't think it will handle better in the rain and such, though. You will take off better yes, and better on the boat ramp, but when on the slick with a open diff, one tire spins and the other doesn't giving you decent lateral traction so you don't fishtail all the time. Once locked, get ready. When your rear looses traction, it will quickly come around on you. But look on the bright side, you can do alot better donuts, and better forward traction, takeoff.

 

Thanx for all the sentiment guys. You guys are like a second family.

Anyway I pulled the rear end apart, and my side gear came unweled from the spiders and the case! Axle shaft splines where also stripped on one axle. Alot of small chunks in the bottom of the housing. cleaned all up, poped in another hawg head and another set of axles, sealed her up, and filled with oil. I will test drive her tomorrow. Had to clean up and throw on a tux, to take my Ex-wife to the Marine corps ball tonight.
Another thought, a welded rear is not the best option for traction in the rain or wet roads. Realy easy to fish tail. I would go with a mini spool, alot less chance of it coming apart and they are fairly cheap. I lucked out cause I had another 9" to yank parts from, otherwise this could have gotten expensive. I'm going to leave her one legged and hook up a pair of turning brakes to the rear, and get a minispool for the front dana 44, upgrade better axles and u-joint ect.
P.S. excelent instructions bigfry!

 

Hey thanks man. Oh and my D44 front seems fine welded. My ol'lady was a marine.

 

Cool, tell her Semper Fi. I'm sure driving on pavement everyday had something to do with my rear coming apart. It would seem to last forever in the front end I figure cause of the enviroment it is used in.

 

Thanks, BigFry. I just might take you up on that offer. It's a good excuse to fix my leaky left rear seal anyway. I figure while I'm replacing the minispool, I'll replace the axle seals on both sides, the main front pumpkin seal, the u-joints, and I've been tempted to try full synthetic gear oil. So that might be a few hour job? I don't know when I'll find the time or $$$ to do all that though.

 

My whole rear end leaks like a siv. I think I put to much lube in her last night and she forcing it out. I need to check my breather ,ect. Trouble shoot it ect.

 

wheres it leakin from?

-cutts-