I know its not a 44 but the principle should apply. I welded the gears to the gears then the gears to the carrier. Using a MIG I didn't have the slag to worry about and it didn't build up the heat load. I have been running it for quite awhile now and no problems.

 

it works without welding the gears to the carrier doesnt it, like if you just lay a few beads in between the teeth works doesnt it?

 

it does work but it is exponentially stronger to weld to the carrier! that way instead of the spiders and side gears and cross pin taking all the stress the carrier helps take a good bit of the stress

-cutts-

 

ahh yea, I see your point

 

It's done! I took it for a test drive a little while ago. It works great. I don't know why so many people warn you about driving with a spooled or welded front. It's is harder to steer but it still steers OK. I turned sharp corners OK too. I would not consider driving very fast locked though and never use it locked on pavment. But for off road use it is fine. I also tried it with just one hub locked. When only one hub is locked it turns easier but pulls a bit, if you get on the throttle it pulls alot to the locked side. But with power steering it is very controlable. Thanks!

 

I drive my truck daily with a welded rear. High speed, low speed, usual driving. The only time I take it slow is when it rains or snows. It's real easy to fish tail or slide if a stab the go pedal or the stop pedal. Tires wear quicker but thats usuall.

 

awesome man! yea that steering can be a lil tricky to get used to.... now you might wanna consider doing hydro assist. if you think you might lemme know, i have a box drilled, tapped, and rebuilt ready for use. i used it for a few months but it just wont fit on my bronco

-cutts-

 

Yeah, I welded the TTB44 on the front and the eaton out back. And I mean welded. I welded everything, alot. Side gears to spiders, side gears to case, and spiders to case. I just used a high nickel rod and didn't get the case too hot. Holds fine with my 39.5's and a 302 in my B2.

 

I hate to post this but I busted my rear drivers side axle today. I haven't pulled her apart but there was a pop and she started to drive real funny. Got home and jacked up the rear and the drivers side rotates almost a full 360, then she comes up tight, with a little force she cams over. I assume its the axle cause if it was in the case I figure a chunk would catch between the gears and jam things up. I drove it the 12 miles home. With the trany in neutral the passenger side rotates smooth. I'm lucky and I have a spare 9 inch out of a f100, so I can swap out the axles and diff. The Q is should I keep running the welded rear? I broke this with 33x12.50x15 TSL's. Maybe welded rears shouldn't be run dailey on the street? O well if it aint broke your not running it hard enough.

 

Hey, swap the parts, save for stouter 9" axles, then swap'em out. Or put a full floater in there with hubs, and weld it and leave one hub unlocked while on the road. Just a thought.

 

I have a 2000 f150 4x4 with the auto hubs, is it possible for me to weld mine to make it 'locked' and not have drivability problems on the street as long as 4 wheel isn't engaged? What about offroading, will i brake more stuff, will i see a big increase in performance?


thanks,

Paul

 

Tire wear would be one of the biggest issues I think.

 

I've heard of the full floater idea, but after driving home today on one axle i wouldn't sugest it. torque steer was horrible. Every time I stepped on it it felt like she wanted to crab walk on me. Yeah I will swap out the diff and axles, probaly put cutting brakes on the rear and weld my front diff. I would only use my front end offroad and there will be alot more give than on pavement. that way I can keep traction with tires on the ground. and still have a open dif in the rear for street drivng. Tire wear is horrible with a welded rear, about 3 times faster than the front. Traction is awesome offroad though. With cutting brakes on the rear, when one tire looses traction and the tire with traction stops, I can lock the spinning tire up and send the power to the one with traction. Welding the front diff will keep the fronts turning all the time. Tight turns I can unlock a hub. Seems a good way to go. And yes I know cutting brakes are illegal on the street. Now ask me if I care.

 

kopenjagfer, dont reweld the swapped in axle. just leave it open and save up for something a lil stronger casue it'll just do it again!

tire wear is a huge issue and the bigger the tires the more wear (or it seems like)

if you drive a newer truck (after 96) dont do it! you will run into too many problems with all the 'new improved' technology. trucks just aren't being built like they used to be (IE the superdutys use a pretty weak unit bearing hub design).

-cutts-

 

hey captain, have someone look at your front driveshaft when you roll it forward a few feet in 2wd. If the shaft turns, chances are it just disengages at the transfer case, and yes you would have driveability problems, you'd turn, and it would try to go straight. If your hubs actually do disconnect from the shafts and your diff doesn't turn when in 2wd, you shouldn't have a problem doing that.