I just installed the Hurst competition shifter in my 2003 4cyl. Ranger. At certain speeds there is a rattle noise coming from the shifter. Anyone had this problem and if so, is there a fix??? Otherwise the shifter is a great product (no more rowing!!) Thanks

-Dave

 

I have a Hurst in my '99 Ranger and think it is a great product. You have to adjust the front and rear stop bolts so that they make contact when the shifter is firmly in 2nd gear (front stop bolt) and 3rd gear (rear stop bolt). Use Loctite to keep the bolts in place. Even so, it still rattles a little.

 

Thanks, I did use loctite on the stop nuts, and adjusted them as prescribed in the directions. I held the shifter down firmly into second gear while I adjusted the stops and the same for third. I wonder if I may have been holding the stick into the gears too firmly and the stops are too close to the shifter thus, rattling at certain engine speeds. What do you think? You said yours rattles some. Does the shifter loosen up a bit over time and feel less notchy? Also, when you shift yours into each gear is there an audible "snick" into the gears? Thanks.

 

Kontai, I got an email that you responded to my lest post but I cannot find the message on the board. could you send again?

 

zigzagg,
Here is an in depth review on the Hurst shifter which I wrote a LONG time ago in another message board . It should answer all your questions...

I have been using the Hurst Billet Plus shifter in my Ranger since Dec '03. Overall, I am very pleased with it. The construction is very solid and the finish is impeccable (made in USA!). I actually marveled at its quality for a while before installing it. Installation was pretty easy and straightforward. The tactile sense of shifting it is much better than the stock shifter: the shifting is noticably shorter and much more solid feeling. I most like the "snick-snick" sound when changing gears.

Initially, I found the shift effort to be unbearably high and notchy. I actually considered pulling it out and going back to the stock shifter. However, the springs inside the shifter loosened up considerably after a few weeks of use. Now I can shift through the gears easily with only two fingers if I wanted to.

The Hurst shifter required me to move my seat up a little in order to reach it since it is shorter than the stock shifter. This required me to get reaccustomed to a new driving position in which the steering wheel is a little too close for my comfort. I also installed the shifter arm on the LEFT side of the selector shaft to bring the assembly as close to me as possible. Using blue Loctite on the bolts and all the contact surfaces, everything is still holding together so far. Furthurmore, I used a 3/8"-16, hand-polished stainless steel jam nut (1/4" high) underneath the **** to raise it a little more.

Like everyone else, I experience gear rattle in 3rd and 4th and overall gear whine from the shifter. And yes, the stops are adjusted correctly. The noise is not that bothersome for me. Besides, I usually have the stereo turn up pretty loud so I don't hear the gear noise anyways I don't think that there is anything you can do to eliminate the noise. It's the nature of the beast. Nonetheless, to minimize the noise as much as I can, I put two layers of Dynamat Xtreme on the inside of the plastic console. I also cut up a thick, rubber-backed carpeted bathroom mat and laid two layers of it on top of the shifter cup. It seems to help some.

I replaced the tiny Hurst **** with a large plain black 2.25" pool ball shift ****. The new **** fits my hand much better and adds some more needed length to the shifter arm. It is also perfectly finished and feels silky smooth in my hand. The debossed "Hurst" logos on the sides of the stock **** chafes my fingers and also looks really tacky IMO. I also replaced the Hurst rubber shift boot with a Wheelskins leather boot. The Hurst boot pulls up on the console when shifting, which eventually loosens the screws holding the console down. Also, the Hurst boot sits on the shifter slightly askew, which really bugged me.

I got the Hurst shifter at http://www.summitracing.com for $209 shipped. The pool ball **** was $32 shipped from http://www.epcomfg.com/shiftknobs.html , which included a $10 custom 3/8"-16 threaded, tapped-in brass insert. This allows the **** to be threaded directly onto the shifter arm without the need for any mounting adapters which could loosen over time. The Wheelskins boot was $35 shipped from http://www.dccarcare.com

In short, the Hurst shifter is a very worthwhile mod. It's one of those mods which you will notice and appreciate every second when driving the truck.
Here is a link to a picture of my setup...

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...80_37_full.jpg

Here is a good how-to on how to install the shifter (with pics!)...
http://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2/...ead.php?t=8344

Addendum (10/18/05): some users report experiencing transmission fluid leaks when using this shifter. Search this forum for "Hurst leaking" for further details. Fortunately, mine has been leak-free thus far (knock on wood).

 

Here is a review that I wrote a while ago in another Ranger forum. It should answer all your questions...

I have been using the Hurst Billet Plus shifter in my Ranger since Dec '03. Overall, I am very pleased with it. The construction is very solid and the finish is impeccable (made in USA!). I actually marveled at its quality for a while before installing it. Installation was pretty easy and straightforward. The tactile sense of shifting it is much better than the stock shifter: the shifting is noticably shorter and much more solid feeling. I most like the "snick-snick" sound when changing gears.

Initially, I found the shift effort to be unbearably high and notchy. I actually considered pulling it out and going back to the stock shifter. However, the springs inside the shifter loosened up considerably after a few weeks of use. Now I can shift through the gears easily with only two fingers if I wanted to.

The Hurst shifter required me to move my seat up a little in order to reach it since it is shorter than the stock shifter. This required me to get reaccustomed to a new driving position in which the steering wheel is a little too close for my comfort. I also installed the shifter arm on the LEFT side of the selector shaft to bring the assembly as close to me as possible. Using blue Loctite on the bolts and all the contact surfaces, everything is still holding together so far. Furthurmore, I used a 3/8"-16, hand-polished stainless steel jam nut (1/4" high) underneath the **** to raise it a little more.

Like everyone else, I experience gear rattle in 3rd and 4th and overall gear whine from the shifter. And yes, the stops are adjusted correctly. The noise is not that bothersome for me. Besides, I usually have the stereo turn up pretty loud so I don't hear the gear noise anyways I don't think that there is anything you can do to eliminate the noise. It's the nature of the beast. Nonetheless, to minimize the noise as much as I can, I put two layers of Dynamat Xtreme on the inside of the plastic console. I also cut up a thick, rubber-backed carpeted bathroom mat and laid two layers of it on top of the shifter cup. It seems to help some.

I replaced the tiny Hurst **** with a large plain black 2.25" pool ball shift ****. The new **** fits my hand much better and adds some more needed length to the shifter arm. It is also perfectly finished and feels silky smooth in my hand. The debossed "Hurst" logos on the sides of the stock **** chafes my fingers and also looks really tacky IMO. I also replaced the Hurst rubber shift boot with a Wheelskins leather boot. The Hurst boot pulls up on the console when shifting, which eventually loosens the screws holding the console down. Also, the Hurst boot sits on the shifter slightly askew, which really bugged me.

I got the Hurst shifter at summitracing.com for $209 shipped. The pool ball **** was $32 shipped from http://www.epcomfg.com/shiftknobs.html , which included a $10 custom 3/8"-16 threaded, tapped-in brass insert. This allows the **** to be threaded directly onto the shifter arm without the need for any mounting adapters which could loosen over time. The Wheelskins boot was $35 shipped from http://www.dccarcare.com

In short, the Hurst shifter is a very worthwhile mod. It's one of those mods which you will notice and appreciate every second when driving the truck.
Here is a link to a picture of my setup...

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...80_37_full.jpg

 

Thanks, it halped a lot!

-Dave

 

Mine rattled too and the adjustment proceedue that hurst used is the safe way to do it. I'm a little more dangerous i guess, haha. I left the whol thing apart with the consoule off and i cracked the jam nuts loose and i went driving on the freeway at about midnight when the road is clear and left it in 3rd and reving so that it made the rattling sound and i just kept tightening the adjustment screw until it was completely gone and tightened the jam nut. I did the same on the bottom in 4th gear and it's quiet now. It might feel likes it's not all the way into gear in 2nd but it is it's just tight and it wont jump out.

 

Thanks for the tip.

 

I have a Hurst Shifter in my 05 Ranger. I am 6' tall and dicided to changer the shifter to one the is 2" higher and 2" further back than the one that comes with the kit. Part number is 538-8022. What this does for you, is it makes the shifter about 1/2 inch closer that the stock one. Feels great.

 

Thanks for the tip. I thought about replacing the handle because it was too far away. I'm 6'3" so it's more of a stretch for me. I just got un-reclined the seat a click and i'm close enough now that i dont have to shifter with the tips of my fingers.
BTW, Were did you get the new stick and what did you pay???

 

I don't know the price, because it was given to me. Friend of a friend deal