98 Exp lower ball joint replacement
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From: MA
jrfording,
Did you replace the lower ball joints only or the entire lower cotnrol arm? Were you able to get greasable lower joints?
The auto parts store I patronize offers free loaner tools and they have the tool for removing and reinstalling the ball joint from the lower arm. The local Ford dealer quoted me $500 for replacing the lower ball joints only and also told me that an alignment is not necessary when replacing lower joints.
Thanks
Did you replace the lower ball joints only or the entire lower cotnrol arm? Were you able to get greasable lower joints?
The auto parts store I patronize offers free loaner tools and they have the tool for removing and reinstalling the ball joint from the lower arm. The local Ford dealer quoted me $500 for replacing the lower ball joints only and also told me that an alignment is not necessary when replacing lower joints.
Thanks
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Joined: Oct 2005
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I replaced just the ball joints on the lower control arms, the ones that i got are not greasable. it is not really necessary to get an alignment if you are only changing the lowers, however i do recomend one if you change the upper control arms, Due to the camber adjustment. The easy way that i did mine was to remove the axel hub nut and pop the axel out after you get the upper and lower ball joints apart from the stearing knuckel. The axel nut on my 99 E.B was a 36mm socket.
If you go by what the hanes manual says it want you to remove the whole lower control arm and torsion bar and so on.
If you go by what the hanes manual says it want you to remove the whole lower control arm and torsion bar and so on.
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Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Connecticut
Originally Posted by jrfording
I replaced just the ball joints on the lower control arms, the ones that i got are not greasable. it is not really necessary to get an alignment if you are only changing the lowers, however i do recomend one if you change the upper control arms, Due to the camber adjustment. The easy way that i did mine was to remove the axel hub nut and pop the axel out after you get the upper and lower ball joints apart from the stearing knuckel. The axel nut on my 99 E.B was a 36mm socket.
If you go by what the hanes manual says it want you to remove the whole lower control arm and torsion bar and so on.
If you go by what the hanes manual says it want you to remove the whole lower control arm and torsion bar and so on.
Questions:
- was it hard to pop the axel/half-shaft from the front diff? Would any oil come out?
- I suppose you have the front jacked in the lower control arm while doing it to counter the torsion bar/shocks tension?
Thanks
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I did not remove the axel from the diff. removed the axel from the wheel knuckle. there is no oil to spill. to pop the axels out after you loosen the nut in the center of the wheel hub take a block of wood and set it on the end of the axel and tap it with a hammer (the wood is so you do not damage any of the threds. after the upper and lower ball joints anr seperated from the knuckle the axel will slide back and you can get the knuckle compleatly off the lower ball joint and then continue to press out the lower ball joint.
i did not have to have a jack on the lower control arm because i did not unbolt the shock, or the front stabilizer links that is enough to support since the lower control arm will not go much lower then it does when the front wheels are off the ground.
i did not have to have a jack on the lower control arm because i did not unbolt the shock, or the front stabilizer links that is enough to support since the lower control arm will not go much lower then it does when the front wheels are off the ground.
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From: Ottawa
Confused
I'm looking at replacing the upper and lower ball joints on my '97 expy. However, I'm a little confused.
I was under the impression that the ball joints and the control arms (upper or lower) were integrated as a single unit. How were you able to replace only the ball joint and not the control arm?
I was under the impression that the ball joints and the control arms (upper or lower) were integrated as a single unit. How were you able to replace only the ball joint and not the control arm?
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If you look at the lower control arm at the top of the ball joint you can see a spring clip on top if you have that clip then you can change just the ball joint on the lower control arm by pressing it outand pressing the new one in. The upper was replaced as a whole unit.
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From: MA
Progress report on ball joint replacement:
I replaced the left side ball joint and I followed jrfording's suggestions. I did not intend to replace the upper control arm/ balljoint assembly, but in the process of separating the upper ball joint from the spindle assembly I damaged the upper ball joint boot. I also ended up disconencting the tie rod end. I used the rental tool to press out the old ball joint and press in the new one. When pressing out the old ball joint the key is to properly set up the press, tighten the screw on the press, then give the screw a few good solid blows to shock the old ball joint. Once I did this the old ball joint pressed out almost effortlessly. Installation of the new ball joint was a breeze. The only comment is be extremely careful not to damage the axle boot seals. Have wire on hand to tie the spindle assembly and axle for support to prevent damage to the brake hoses and ABS system. I'm going to hold off in the replacement of the upper ball joint until I am ready for a front end alignment. Now that I did the first ball joint, I think the right side should take maybe 1.5 hours from start to finish.
I replaced the left side ball joint and I followed jrfording's suggestions. I did not intend to replace the upper control arm/ balljoint assembly, but in the process of separating the upper ball joint from the spindle assembly I damaged the upper ball joint boot. I also ended up disconencting the tie rod end. I used the rental tool to press out the old ball joint and press in the new one. When pressing out the old ball joint the key is to properly set up the press, tighten the screw on the press, then give the screw a few good solid blows to shock the old ball joint. Once I did this the old ball joint pressed out almost effortlessly. Installation of the new ball joint was a breeze. The only comment is be extremely careful not to damage the axle boot seals. Have wire on hand to tie the spindle assembly and axle for support to prevent damage to the brake hoses and ABS system. I'm going to hold off in the replacement of the upper ball joint until I am ready for a front end alignment. Now that I did the first ball joint, I think the right side should take maybe 1.5 hours from start to finish.
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glad to hear that it was easy for you. Sorry to hear about the torn upper boot. I just found that it was quicker to remove the axel then to remove the torsion bars and whole lower control arm. good luck with the other side. Let us know how it works out.
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