Ok so here's the deal..I've tried Motorcraft..Supertech..STP..Fram Tough Guard..Napa Gold and now Pulalotor oil filters all on my 66 F100 with a 352 all with same or similar oils and by far the pulalotor one is the best I've never had my oil light go off so fast and my pressure jump so quickly with any of those other filters..hot or cold bam pressure and seems to run quiter..same pressure though..I know the Motorcraft is suppposdly made by Pulalotor but I'm having serious doubts on that one cause the Motorcraft was one of the worst..the next best was the Napa Gold line just for the record. Anyhow just thought I'd share

 

Thanks for the information!!! Were the ambient temperatures the same when you tested each filter?

 

yes the outside temp was about the same for all filters...all the others ones would take 1-3 seconds to build up pressure unlike the pulaltor which has been instant

 

ones evn far better then purolator is fleetguard,baldwin and donaldson

 

I don't think that the speed the oil light goes off is a good measure of filter quality. For instance, if you had no filter at all just an empty can, that would be the best in that test.

 

Your test would be that of the anti-drain back valve. While important to your engine, it is not the only criteria to judge a filter or its performance. But the ones you listed as good are also very good across the board.

 

I guess I'm the only one who has ever had a Purolater with a bad anti-drainback valve. I put one on my truck and for several weeks had a dry start every time I cranked her. I still use Purolater and have not had a repeat event. Always listen for that start up clatter...its a killer!

 

napa gold = wix too by the way

Matt

 

I still have my Nomex on from work flame away at will, here goes.

Been using Fram for the last 6 years. No problems what so ever. 3 cars, 2 trucks, 2 harleys, and a John Deere mower. Never had any of the symptoms listed here (dry starts/ noise change). Had both harley motors apart on very numerous occations, never any sign of a oil filter problem. BITOG gets paid from someone, and I'll give you a clue, its not Allied Signal. I have cut open both Fram and the oem HD filters. They are identicle.

Ryan

 

I CALL BS!!! here is a link to the study i always refer to, and no oem filters ever EVER put cardboard in their filters

Matt

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html

 

Well you could always go buy one of each and cut them open yourself, I guess. Point is, I already have. I refuse to spend $10.00 for a black filter that is no better than the orange one that costs $3.00. They both get thrown in the trash at 1000 miles along with the havoline 20W50 that is drained out. I am not telling everyone here to start using Fram. I am simply stating that I use them and to date have had absolutly no issues. Everyone here has repeatedly bashed Fram filters, which I have no problems with, except in the proof that their construction has caused damage to engines they are used on. I bought a Chevy silverado with 87,000 miles on it. It also had one of the worst engines ever built according the the majority of this site, a 305 V8. Well I traded it in with 193,000 miles and it had nothing but Fram filters on it. The father of a friend of mine had 108,000 on his 93 dyna wideglide HD. we tore the motor down, and did a mic check of all the parts. No excessive wear noted. Nothing but Fram filters ever used since 50 miles on the bike. So I just wonder how bad can they really be? Like I said, bash all you want, but start showing me some proof, not speculation. I do not consider BITOG to be proof. His independant studies are really not much different than the ones Amsoil, or any of the other oil companies do.


Ryan

 

I have cut open both Fram and the oem HD filters. They are identicle



sure.

 

humm which one looks better? (photos are from Big O Dave)

 

this filter is only 2.07 and is at least 4 times better in filtration and build quailty.

 

Well here is where we agree to disagree. Show me a mic inspection sheet from a motor that has run the filters that you all say are better than Fram, and then one that has used nothing but frams. Radial mic the rod and main bearings. Mic cyl. bores, valve stems, valve guides, rod busings, piston pins, main and rod crank pins, heck mic whatever you want. I want to see real proof. My guess is the differences will be minute. Like I have said, you all go buy a evo HD filter and cut it apart, then go buy a fram 3682 and cut it apart. I already have. I see nothing in the HD filter that makes it $7 better than the Fram. You can show me all the pictures you want of brand new oil cut apart oil filters. Until you start showing me pictures of mechanical failures attributed to using Fram filters, I will not bite.


Ryan