Downpipe install?
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Downpipe install?
I want to put a 3" downpipe on my 95 F250. Is this a difficult task? Can it be done reasonably at home?
Have any readers did their own install. I have also heard that some instalations require the fire wall to be modified? Has this been the case?
Thanks
Dennis
Have any readers did their own install. I have also heard that some instalations require the fire wall to be modified? Has this been the case?
Thanks
Dennis
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: West Haven, UT
I had to tweak my firewall a bit. Wasn't too terrible. The hardest part for me by far was removing the old downpipe. Took 3 or 4 blades for the sawzall.
Do a search here and you will find many, many tips for getting it done.
Do a search here and you will find many, many tips for getting it done.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: CentralEastern Utah
http://www.drivetrain.com/downpipeinstinstr.html
Best instructions's I've ever found......
Only thing I don't think is needed is the heat wrap.
Best instructions's I've ever found......
Only thing I don't think is needed is the heat wrap.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 161,999
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From: 3rd Rock
Originally Posted by filipows
I want to put a 3" downpipe on my 95 F250. Is this a difficult task? Can it be done reasonably at home?
Have any readers did their own install. I have also heard that some instalations require the fire wall to be modified? Has this been the case?
Thanks
Dennis
Have any readers did their own install. I have also heard that some instalations require the fire wall to be modified? Has this been the case?
Thanks
Dennis
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Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: SHELTON, WA
it's very easy as long as you got something to cut with. preferably sawzall. they are cheap at harbor freight. some handtools and something to bend the firewall with pipe, 2x4, scissor jack or porta power.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Helotes, Texas
If your cab bushings have never been changed, they're probably worn out. You have to jack up one side then the other to change the bushings, and it makes it real easy to get the downpipe out while the truck is jacked up on the passenger side. It will also help with any clearance issues once the new downpipe is installed. A new set of polyurethane bushings from Energy only cost me about $65 and it eliminated some of the squeaks and pops I had as well. Hope it helps.
Max
Max
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Thanks to every one for all the advice and share of experience. I will probablay need to wait a little to do the swap, but it seems like something I can tackle. Have there been brands of pipes that seem to fit better?
Thanks again
Dennis
Thanks again
Dennis
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Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: SHELTON, WA
Originally Posted by filipows
Thanks to every one for all the advice and share of experience. I will probablay need to wait a little to do the swap, but it seems like something I can tackle. Have there been brands of pipes that seem to fit better?
Thanks again
Dennis
Thanks again
Dennis
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From: West Haven, UT
I went with Dale Isley's (Tymar Performance) downpipe. Starts at 3" expands to 3.5" after the seam, then to 4" to mate up with a 4" exhaust the rest of the way back. Probably the best downpipe made for the money (~$130).
Postmaster
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From: SHELTON, WA
Originally Posted by mjwhip2
I went with Dale Isley's (Tymar Performance) downpipe. Starts at 3" expands to 3.5" after the seam, then to 4" to mate up with a 4" exhaust the rest of the way back. Probably the best downpipe made for the money (~$130).
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