Has anyone used the POR15 pan repair kit that comes with the metal impregnated silver paint and the "power mesh". I'm looking for some words of wisdom before I slather that stuff all over my floor boards since I think once it goes on it ain't comin' off easily.
Chris

 

I hav'nt used POR15 but I have been using Eastwood Rust Encapsulator and Chassis Paint.
Instead of putting a "mesh" type repair I have been welding in patch panels on my fenders (soon will do on floorpan) and coating with the encapsulator paint. It goes on well with spot air paint gun and lays flat for top coating with color paint.
I think its all (Eastwood & POR15) supposed to do a good job...

Ed

 

I coated both the bottom and top of my floor with POR 15 black rust paint. I did this just last weekend. I also patched my floor with metal but it had a good coat of surface rust on it, top and bottom. The day after I painted the bottom it was as hard as a rock and I couldn't scratch it. The next day I did the top and was in a hurry and didn't leave it dry enough before applying epoxy primer. The instructions say to wait until the POR 15 dries so it’ tacky to the touch, I guess it was a little too wet still. It started to lift almost immediately. It was late so I left it for the morning to check the damage. It turned out the primer lifted but the POR 15 stayed. I scraped and sanded the loose epoxy primer so now it looks kind of rough. This weekend I am going to see if I can get it a little smoother and then shoot it with another coat of epoxy. The instructions say you can use the POR 15 over fiberglass mesh but it won’t melt the fiberglass like resin because it doesn’t have any styrene in it. I would assume if you work it right it should come out pretty smooth but no matter what it will still look like you laid a mat over the floor. If you’re going to cover your floor with a mat or rug, it’s not going to matter. I doubt it will ever come up.
The other thing the instructions mention is filling in of pin holes. My doors are in very good condition other than pin holes on the bottoms. The instructions say to block off one side with tape, apply a couple of coats on the opposite side, wait until it’s dry then remove the and apply two coats on the previously taped side. I am going to do that this weekend. It’s going to save me a lot of work.

This is the third POR 15 product I have used, I used their engine paint kit and it wear like iron, and their epoxy putty. I like all three. If you have a holy floor and don't want to go through the expense and work of replacing it with steel I would go with the POR 15 kit, I know their kits have everything you will need.

 

Thanks. I did buy the kit and it looks very all inclusive. The pan has heavy rust which I have "derusted" and now I have to use the POR15 silver and black coats. I just have one of two holes and they are only about 1/2"x1/2" in size so I am going to use the tape method that you suggested. Thanks for your advise.

Chris

 

I know I've been happy using POR-15 as well as their Chassis Coat (semi gloss black topcoat) I've heard good things about their epoxy putty and hope to order some in the near future to use to repair the steering wheel I have. I plan on using they Chassis Coat on my frame, bumpers, rims and running boards.

I've also been looking into that "powermesh" stuff they sell. I recently got my hands on a set of full length 3/4 ton running boards that have some small rust holes in them. I've been thinking of using that mesh on the underside to cover those holes (up to about 3/8 of an inch), then using epoxy putty to fill the tops. We'll see how it works out.

I'll even admit to eyeing up their "hardnose" paints for a potential body paint for the old girl... like the looks of their dark blue.