Distributor Gear
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 353
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From: Mid-Missouri
Distributor Gear
I'm trying to figure out which gear I'm suppose to have on the distributor.
Replacements come with a steel gear and a cast iron gear.
Is there anyway to tell without pulling the old distributor to check.
I need to replace the pick-up coil, but since the whole distributor is has to be torn apart to replace it, it is actually not a bad idea to replace the whole assembly. It appears to be original.
A new pick-up coil is going to run about $30
A remanufactured Distributor is $60 w/o the TFI (I've got a fresh TFI)
The remanuf. dist. has a limited lifetime warranty.
The time it would take me or a mechanic to rebuild the distributor is really not worth putting the old one back in service.
I've got an 86 F-150 5.0 EFI.
If I had to guess, I would say cast iron gear. I just want to make sure and buy the right part before I get in the middle of the repair and discover differently.
The other issue I have is that the timing indicator on the crank is not there. Guess I'll have to time it by ear after the install.
Replacements come with a steel gear and a cast iron gear.
Is there anyway to tell without pulling the old distributor to check.
I need to replace the pick-up coil, but since the whole distributor is has to be torn apart to replace it, it is actually not a bad idea to replace the whole assembly. It appears to be original.
A new pick-up coil is going to run about $30
A remanufactured Distributor is $60 w/o the TFI (I've got a fresh TFI)
The remanuf. dist. has a limited lifetime warranty.
The time it would take me or a mechanic to rebuild the distributor is really not worth putting the old one back in service.
I've got an 86 F-150 5.0 EFI.
If I had to guess, I would say cast iron gear. I just want to make sure and buy the right part before I get in the middle of the repair and discover differently.
The other issue I have is that the timing indicator on the crank is not there. Guess I'll have to time it by ear after the install.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,610
Likes: 2
From: Northwest, Arkansas
The ones I have changed have all been cast. With a little bit more money I would go ahead and replace the whole distributor. The cost is not much more and worth it to save the time of taking the old one all apart and putting it back together. IMHO
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 353
Likes: 3
From: Mid-Missouri
Fordborn: I agree with changing out the whole Distributor. This one has already been rebuilt once about 3 year ago by a mechanic. Also, one of the TFI mounting screw holes is starting to strip out.
I skeptical about doing this myself. I've never timed a vehicle and doing it by ear is probably not going to be as easy for me. Also heard about instances with the oil pump shaft ending up in the pan when I the distributor is removed/replaced.
I skeptical about doing this myself. I've never timed a vehicle and doing it by ear is probably not going to be as easy for me. Also heard about instances with the oil pump shaft ending up in the pan when I the distributor is removed/replaced.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,610
Likes: 2
From: Northwest, Arkansas
The oil pump shaft should fit in sung in the dist. One end should have like an o-ring on it, this keeps the thing from falling out when putting it in or out.
Before pulling old one make a mark as to where the rotor is pointing. Make the mark somewhere on the manifold or something that will stay put. It takes a little practice to put one in for due to the cut of the teeth the rotor will turn as you are seating the gears, so you may have to pull it up a ways and move a tooth forward or backwards.
You can also turn the engine to TDC on number 1 and the rotor will be pointed at #1 plug on cap. I usually use the method of just marking where the rotor is presently, that way my timing is right back where it was.
Before pulling old one make a mark as to where the rotor is pointing. Make the mark somewhere on the manifold or something that will stay put. It takes a little practice to put one in for due to the cut of the teeth the rotor will turn as you are seating the gears, so you may have to pull it up a ways and move a tooth forward or backwards.
You can also turn the engine to TDC on number 1 and the rotor will be pointed at #1 plug on cap. I usually use the method of just marking where the rotor is presently, that way my timing is right back where it was.
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