FMU's work great........... Until the rubber diaphram inside leaks and causes the engine to go lean under boost (which you won't know until the engine goes boom) I believe the stock 300-6 uses 60psi fuel pressure which is already kinda high and with an FMU it could reach 90psi fuel pressure for 6-7psi boost which is just TOO much work for the electric fuel pump to overcome to provide enough fuel. Even a 255Lhp pump (biggest in tank pump avalible) would have trouble pushing enough fuel at 90psi to be safe. If I was to go the FMU route (which is ok, but I would change the Diaphram every year) I would look into 19-24# injectors and add an adjustable FPR and bring the Fuel pressure down to 35-40psi which would be alot easier on the fuel pump with an FMU (~60-65psi total under boost). You would also need a Box like the MSD boost timing manager to retard the timing under boost.

 

"the only substitute for cubic inches, is cubic dollars" smokey yunich?

 

Hey, yea thats what I was going to do (im Twilight child BTW) yea, thats when I didnt know anything about turbo systems. Currently I think it would be very simple to modify a turbo for these motors. Take the old exhaust manifolds, the ones that are 6 into 1 logs. (35 -55$), Buy a nice 60 trim turbo( this hurts, but this is one of the places you dont want to get cheap on 500-700$). Buy an adjustable fuel pressure regulator (50$) and a nice set of 25-30 pound injectors (just looked at them, 100-150 for 8 30lb injectors on ebay). Buy a nice set of stainless steel lines (35-50$) and some misc flanges (oil in and out, water cooling [if you get a water cooled turbo] as well as exhaust to be welded to exhaust manifold at a local muffler shop [25-35$]) and then you need an external wastegate (most 60 trims are externally gated) and weld it to the exhaust manifold (200-300ish for the gate and the welding). If you wanna be loud and annoying, and save your turbo, a blow off valve, ranging from 100-400$ depending on type. To supply fuel to the motor, get a rising pressure FMU, it will raise the pressure in your fuel rail depeing on boost level, you can get anywhere from 2psi fuel:1 psi air to 12psi fuel:1psi air(50-100$). The diaphrams in the FMU will need to be changed about once a year, or you can go with a standalone ECU(id recomend megasquirt, can be purchased for about 300-400 $ and will support up to 21 psi, fully tunable, and will even control spark.
Add it up,
you barely break 1000$, at 1095 on the cheap side, and if you want the best of everything, and its 1845, with over 1000 of that in the turbo and blow off valve.
You can probably run about 6-7 PSI on a stock motor, which not intercooled will allow for about 35-40% power increase, or on a stock motor 55-65 HP increase, or if intercooled itd be good for 45-50% increase, or 80 HP on a stock motor at least, if not more. An intercooler is like a radiator for the compressed air charge, and will lower the intake air temp from high 100s (180-200degrees) to 100 or less, allowing not only more boost to be run, but a more powerful explosion. If you plan on intercooling you can pay anywhere from 200-400 $ for the intercooler and 100 or so for the piping to run it with silicon hose clamps. Another solution is an air to water intercooler, which would require another radiator (could be much smaller) but is also alot more efficient than air to water intercoolers because of the specific heat of pure water. I plan on making one for my turbocharged VW bug here one of these days, and plan on being able to construct it for less than 200$, compared to a marketed air to water intercooler @ 300-400 $, Ill let you know how that works.
A freshly built motor with some upgraded parts, Like apr bolts and stuff should be able to take close to 10 PSI if the headgasket will hold. 10 PSI is about 75% power increase, for that you will need an intercooler, but on a stock motor that is pushing 300 HP without any other mods.

Other stuff you might need for a trouble free turbo system.
Boost gauge (30-100$ ebay)
Boost controller (mechanical 20-150$ and electric 100-300$ ebay)
Msd boost timing control box (retards the timeing to reduce the chance of the flamefront hitting the piston before it reaches TDC 150-250 ebay)

If you stay off the boost, your mileage will stay the same, and of course you have 200-300 HP on tap on a stock built motor.

Remeber 50% of 200 HP (which is a decent build for the inlines) is 100 HP. and of course 75% is 150. or 350 HP all said and done.

If you want to go all out, you will need some forged pistons(dont know if the stocks are) and some forged hardened conecting rods (might have to be manufactured should be doable for under about 800$). An upgraded cooling system, as well as stregthened head bolts and some misc "stregthening mods" and the motor with the right control (standalone ECU) should be capable of close to 14-15 PSI, itercooled is a 100% power increase.
Think the compression ratio is too high for 15 pounds of boost? They make bolt on kits for honda s2000s that run 8-9 and sometimes 10 PSI. The stock compression ratio on a s2000 is 11:1, and those kits still only require 92 octane gas.

Last thing, a 60 trim turbo will support 60-80 lbs a minute, and the rule of thumb is 1 lb a min of air is 10 HP, so 600 + HP. The reason such a large turbo is recomended is because it can do it alot more efficiently and at less speeds (turbine speeds, which can reach 200K RPMS!!!!!!) than a smaller turbo, so you get less heat in the intake charge, and for me, another good result of a bigger turbo is even though boost kicks in later, I dont want another 100-200 ft lbs of torque, i cant keep the wheels conected now. Ive spoken to alot of companies with these concerns, or guidelines, saying I would like a turbo that will support boost by 2000 RPMS and support 250 HP @ 6 pounds of boost maxing out at about 4-4500 RPMS, and almost all of them have recomended the garrett t3, 60-1 turbo.

 

O K, what motor are you talking about?

 

well the specs are based on a 160 HP 300 ci inline, but it would work for a 240 as well, boost is just a % increase over atmospheric pressure, 14.2-14.7 theoretically doubles your HP, while 7.1-7.4 will at 50%, and 3.6-3.7 will at 25% power. All those numbers are intercooled numbers though, becuase it is calculating just an increase in air, but not temperature.

 

Sounds like you come along way sense that post.


Theres a big difference between the honda engine and the big six.
Those things can run more boost on the same compression than the push rod motors can on the same fuel. Its the chamber design.

"Think the compression ratio is too high for 15 pounds of boost?"
Maybe, maybe not, depends on more things then that.
how about some insurance?

One thing that will help would be zero deck pistons and polished cambers. Quench helps boosted engines too.

water/akly injection helps alot, use high pressure and small nosles to atomize the water.
50/50 water alky mix seems to work well for the Buick guys. it also keeps the inside of the engine spotless.

 

The statement made on the difference between honda and ford is ligitimate. But realize that on the honda motor, they are still doing it at or a little over 9K RPMS, that also ought to give us a lil something over them that its not quite as likely to detonate because its not being compressed as fast and so forth. Higher octane fuel, and yes, as someone pointed out water/alky injection is a big thumbs up in my book. Gains of 50-100 HP on stock turboed cars can be accomplished if water/alky injection is used on cars with no stock intercoolers. Works for supercharged cars as well. Its a very very effective way of droping the intake tempature alot. Something that ive been considering over the past few days, which, here me out before you tell me im crazy, is taking 2 turboes off a small saab or volvo, i mean these things are tiny, but my mom has one, 200 HP, or 20 lb a minute, on a 2.0 L motor that is turning 6000-65000 RPMs.
Now put 2 of these turboes, theoretically good for a 4.0L motor to turn 6K rpms, or a 4.9 somewhere around 5K RPMS, and on the saab it gets full boost by about 3500 RPMS, on the truck, with a little more air flow, probably by about 2500-2750, and your on your way to a fairly nice TWIN TURBO INLINE 6 hehe. Just a thought. Only reason Im considering is because I can get 2 of those turboes, rebuilt warrenteed ones, for about 300$, and then im going to have a crossover welded into the efi manifolds, and 1 turbo per manifold, into a y pipe, my intercooler, another y, and then into my dual cold air intake pipes, hehe. Its a true twin setup all the way from the twin exhaust manifolds to the twin throttle body heeh.

If you think its stupid, dont look down or think anything less of me, its cuz Im cheap.

 

again i ask what motor are you talking about ????
not a 4.9 ford.
not enuff cam to go past 4500 rpm @ 12 # of boost
the head will not flow enuff air stock to make more than 240 hp [safe]
the chamber sucks [very prone to detonation]
coming up on 3 years of building & and dynoing on mine

 

"If you think its stupid, dont look down or think anything less of me, its cuz Im cheap."

Why would i do that, JY turbo build ups are interesting, its fun to see what you can do for little money.

I do think the saab turbo idea would work. I wouldn't be surprised to see full boost before 2500 with that set up. The EFI manifolds flow better than the carb manifolds
this site has some budget build ups.
http://www.toohighpsi.com/BudgetTT/tt351W.htm

capri460
Can carbs and turbos work well together? Explain you answer.

 

the only thing i have with a carb is my lawnmower,
if i had time that might get efi too
my truck starts to see boost at 2000 rpm 2600 10+ #
when i get time i will try to tune it for my new
cam, head, piston, injector set up.

 

Try www.turbomustangs.com/ you'll get your answer real quick.

 

I was asking capri460 and he all ready answered.
I found TM.com about four years ago. I mostly lurk, search, and read.
Its a great turbo site, tons of info.

 

MY mistake.


Then why did you ask?

 

you ever finish this project?

 

Reading through the post. I am aware that this is a necro from hell.


To anyone who thinks that this will work or who has seen the videos on youtube I have this to say. It wont.

Done my homework on this one. IF you had an external power source powering, lets say, a leaf blower. And IF you planed to hook this up to a motor 2.0L or less then it would work under the following conditions.

Your looking at .5-.8 lbs of boost at idle. It drops sharply from their and anything past 4 grand on the tach is just going to restrict flow to the engine. Besides, would you trust those little plastic impellers anywhere near your motor without flying apart?

And before anyone asks. CFM (Cubic Feet per Minuet) is a measure of air flow. There isn't any equation to convert CFM to Lbs of boost. And CFM does not, under any circumstances, serve as an indication of the amount of boost said device will provide.