Low Idle RPM On Startup
#1
Low Idle RPM On Startup
I'm looking for some direction on where to start my troubleshooting.
First off, it is a 2001 F-250 auto trans, 4x4 crew cab with 99,000 miles by the original owner (me).
Over the past month or so on initial (cold) startup the idle drops down to around 5-600 RPMs and dies. If I keep the idle up around 1,000 manually for about a minute or two, it will drop down to the 5-600 RPM range when I take my foot off the throttle, but continue to run.
The motor runs fine and doesn't miss, it just idles a bit low. I've had it checked several times with no codes showing. Up until now (11 years), on initial startup it would idle up to just over 1,000 RPMs and slowly drop down to around 7-800 as it warmed up.
I imagine it is something simple, but I don't know where to start. Any suggestions? Thanks for the help.
Edmo
First off, it is a 2001 F-250 auto trans, 4x4 crew cab with 99,000 miles by the original owner (me).
Over the past month or so on initial (cold) startup the idle drops down to around 5-600 RPMs and dies. If I keep the idle up around 1,000 manually for about a minute or two, it will drop down to the 5-600 RPM range when I take my foot off the throttle, but continue to run.
The motor runs fine and doesn't miss, it just idles a bit low. I've had it checked several times with no codes showing. Up until now (11 years), on initial startup it would idle up to just over 1,000 RPMs and slowly drop down to around 7-800 as it warmed up.
I imagine it is something simple, but I don't know where to start. Any suggestions? Thanks for the help.
Edmo
#3
#4
#6
Ditto. I don't think it's really an issue of the valve itself sticking from dirt, it's more likely the servo/motor that moves the valve. The air supply to the IAC is right off the main air intake after the air filter, so it doesn't get much dirt or PCV gasses, if any. The one in my '97 Cougar was nice and clean, just sticky so I just replaced it - been fine since.
#7
Thanks for the help.
I've got an 88' 5.0L, it's been running rough and will barely stay running on start up. I will definitely be changing the IAC valve out; any recommendations on a brand? Advance Auto has BWD, Delphi and Wells Vehicle Electronics. I've only heard of Delphi, may look at a few different stores as well.
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#9
IAC valve
My 05 E350 V10 van shows some idle problems, and not very often, but when it does it usually involves getting on the brake and doing a turn. So I am considering changing mine.
I have looked on Advance Auto's website and they show a wide variety of IACs and a wide variety of costs.
Any pointers?
I have looked on Advance Auto's website and they show a wide variety of IACs and a wide variety of costs.
Any pointers?
#10
My 05 E350 V10 van shows some idle problems, and not very often, but when it does it usually involves getting on the brake and doing a turn. So I am considering changing mine.
I have looked on Advance Auto's website and they show a wide variety of IACs and a wide variety of costs.
Any pointers?
I have looked on Advance Auto's website and they show a wide variety of IACs and a wide variety of costs.
Any pointers?
On van I'm guessing you can access it from inside? If so, tips I can provide from my recent swap:
...the bolts that hold it to the intake are WAY too long...you'll be spinning that socket for a long time, then it falls out...if it does, it will drop into the openings in the intake manifold and be lost forever.
...my gasket came off half on the idle air control and half on the intake. If your gasket self-destructs, use a shop vac if you can get at it from the back of the motor if you can't recover the entire gasket. I had to do that to make sure when I scraped off the remains from the intake that none fell inside.
...in my case, they didn't have a replacement gasket, so I had to make my own using the "roll of gasket type material" they sell. Not the cork stuff, this is heavier than tar paper without the tar. Be careful you cut out clean holes for the bolts...any of that gasket material gets inside the hole it will make tightening the bolts VERY hard to do.
#12
This thread was last updated over EIGHT YEARS ago!
Cleaning the throttle body is a good idea in general but I've found removing it completely, scrubbing with a toothbrush or something similar along with dedicated throttle body cleaner does a more thorough job. Be careful of any electrical connectors as those grow fragile over time, easy to break the locking tabs etc.
Cleaning the throttle body is a good idea in general but I've found removing it completely, scrubbing with a toothbrush or something similar along with dedicated throttle body cleaner does a more thorough job. Be careful of any electrical connectors as those grow fragile over time, easy to break the locking tabs etc.
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05-24-2007 11:01 PM