I think I'm going to set this one out. About time for you guys to solo. Think I'll work on Jr. instead.Park wheeling is really not my thing. I'd much rather be in Utah or Colorado. Next wheeling trip I have planned is for this time next year.

 

Thats alright Jack, just keep the CB on so you can come get us when we are lost. LOL

 

I have to have a good sweat going to mix with the blood on my Knuckels to enjoy wrenching. If my BII was "food grade" it would be getting closer to my kind of weather. lol

 

Hey, you trying to take a crack at my DeLorean BII?

 

When you going to install the Flux Capacitor?

 

Well with the gps and data you have you shouldn't get lost. You might have a little trouble (fun) getting where you want to be. But you'll know right where you are.

 

Soon as it arrives.

 

OH yeah I forgot the "You are Here" insignia on the GPS.

 

The keys have setting here at the house. I'll get my truck fixed then work on jr next week. PLus we can't get it done to fast because that would mean we would have to change something and it was on the 2 year plan its only been a year.

 

No hurry is right. I went over last sunday and looked it over again and decided to make a few more changes. Hate to tear into it too much as we can push it around right now and we need to do that to get the Opel out. Need to get the Doubler in and have it cleaned up and the shift lever changed. Hate to pull the 1354 till I have that ready. Maybe next month. Or the month after that, or the next.........

We did get the hood back on it so it can set outside now.

 

Opel? I always liked the ones that looked like a 260Z.

 

Yep. The guy who owns the house (Chris) where we store "Jr." married the daughter of the guy who used to own the house. Chris grew up and his parents still live accross the street. When the father-in-law moved and sold the house he left the Opel. Now another daughter wants the Opel. She came by sunday when I was over there. I told her she needed a BII like "Jr." and she could drive up on top of little Opel's. That didn't go over well. She is really excited about the little car.

My mom has Clints trailer outside of Andover loaded with some stuff to take to the dump. She had water in her basement and had to remove a bunch of carpet and stuff. Soon as we can get her to take it to the dump we'll get the trailer back and pull the Opel out and take it over to the father-in-laws new place.

Think I'll take the doubler to Chance's tomorrow and see if they can change out the shift lever and clean it up a little.

To instll the stock cross member we need to drill one hole in the frame and remove the Skyjacker tranny mount and right side rear radius arm brackets. That would make it pretty hard to push around.

Plus never do today what you can put off till next month or year.

 

Ok, I added some stuff to my web site. It's at http://www.mappyjack.com/Shifter.htmNot real interesting unless you are into putting stuff on a BII that never went on it in the first place. Might even go over and work on it tomorrow.

 

I found it very informative. So is the doubler made from a BW 1354?

 

Hard to tell with out pulling it apart. The 1354 had 6 planetary gears where the 1350 just has 4. The 54 had a plastic internal shift lever. The 50 is metal. I would bet it's a 1350 though as they are cheeper and way more available. As the case was cut down it could even be an old broken unit.


The reason I went with a 1354 is the front driveshaft output. The 1350 has the long front cone that has some failure prone componets. It is like a tail shaft on a car and contains the slip splines for the front drive shaft. This puts a shorter distance between the u-joints and makes for steeper driveshaft angles. The spline shaft is rather short and not suited for long travel suspension. It will either botom out and break the t-case or pull the splined shaft out so far it will break. So your front drive shaft has a short section of splined shaft, then the upper u-joint and then a section of solid tube and the bottom u-joint.


The 1354 has a yoke bolted on for the front drive shaft the same as they do for the rear. So you have your top u-joint followed by a long section of tube you can put a long travel splined shaft in, followed by your bottom u-joint. Just like your rear drive shaft.