Window felt installation
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Kansas City area
The new ones come with the clips in place but I found I had to expand them slightly to get them to hold tight. Be careful when fooling with them as they are fragile. Also you have to either flatten or cut or do both to the ends to get them to tuck behind the vertical channel. Mask off your paint in the corners to protect it while fitting them. Other than that I used the flat side of a wide screwdriver to apply pressure at the clips. Hope this helps.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 4,489
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From: Valley Center, CA
Yea, I used the wood and hammer method too. I took a 1/2" diameter dowel and ground down the end until it fit into the channel. Then I tapped the end with a small hammer to get the clips to pop into the holes. 
Good luck, Jag
Good luck, Jag
Junior User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 81
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From: Southeast Pa.
Make sure the holes for the clips (in the window channel) are clear and not buggered up. Mine were and I to redo the felt when the clips got damaged. Previous owner must have used a sledge to "straighten" out the tabs. Giving a visual check at each hole for straight tabs and no paint build up might help. I wish I had done that the first time. Good luck.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 153
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From: northeast texas
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2004
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Randy, I know you're right about me needing a shop manual, but that wouldn't help me here because I have a copy of the section dealing with this that a friend gave me. My question wasn't as much about the process as needing tips on how to do it.
I have been able to get some in by placing a flat ended punch in the felt on top of the clip and tapping that in with a hammer.
I will try the grease idea to maybe help the stubborn ones.
I have been able to get some in by placing a flat ended punch in the felt on top of the clip and tapping that in with a hammer.
I will try the grease idea to maybe help the stubborn ones.
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Joe Kucinski
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 4,489
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From: Valley Center, CA
It just occurred to me that the direction of installation may be important also. I would suggest starting at the end closest to the windwing. There are two screws that hold that end (I believe anyway if my memory is still working). I would leave those screws loose so that the felt channel can move as necessary. Then, starting with the closest pop-in connector, push in directly over the connector only, as not to bend it. Then procede to the next and so on. Good luck, Jag 
Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 153
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From: northeast texas
On my 60 I found that I could get on the outside of the door for the outside felt (inside for inside felt), place my fingers in the channel and palm on outside and use a squeezing action to pop them in. Window was not in at the time. The one on the curve gave me the most trouble and as I mentioned in another post, I had to do some filing on the holes with a bent chainsaw file to make them larger. I started at the rear of the door on the curve. Also had to do some trimming on the rear part as it was a little too long.
Jim
Jim
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 278
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From: Lewisville, NC
Installing window run
Boy am I glad I'm not the only one that found that to be a real pain. Ruined one run, lucky Carpenter's is only an hour away. Instead of using a punch to pound the brackets into the holes, you can try inserting a piece of shaped piece of wood in the channel and use a padded clamp to squeeze the brackets into the holes. Got a few in that way. Also used contact cement to keep them in place once they were installed. Some liked to pop out when working on others down the line. Clamps helped there too.
-Scott
-Scott
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