Uplifter Switches
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Uplifter Switches
I am in the process of running power to the Fill-Rite fuel transfer pump in the back of my 2005 F250. I was planning on using one of the 30 amp uplifter switches but found out the uplifter circuits are "hot" only when the ignition key is in the run position. My previous understanding was these switches were also hot with the iginition in the accessory position. Any idea why Ford has wired them this way? How hard is it to modify these circuits so they are hot in the accessory position?
rv7today
2005 F250 PS SWB 4x4 --just traded my 2003 F350 LWB dually.
pulling 32' Travel Supreme 5th wheel
rv7today
2005 F250 PS SWB 4x4 --just traded my 2003 F350 LWB dually.
pulling 32' Travel Supreme 5th wheel
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Here's a thread from a couple of weeks ago.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...light=upfitter
I don't know how he made out and how hard it would be to take the switch panel apart and re-configure the switch power.
My feeling is Ford configured the switches so it would be less involved for the owner/accessory people to wire stuff up. Having a key-on power feed takes the most wiring and add-on relays, that now you don't have to worry about.
A simple power on all the time switch is just a wire run from a hot source in the fuse box, or the battery, to a switch. Not much involved in that. But I guess they didn't figure on most people wanting the "factory" look and be able to use the switches already there. Maybe they will change it around a little next year if there is enough demand.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...light=upfitter
I don't know how he made out and how hard it would be to take the switch panel apart and re-configure the switch power.
My feeling is Ford configured the switches so it would be less involved for the owner/accessory people to wire stuff up. Having a key-on power feed takes the most wiring and add-on relays, that now you don't have to worry about.
A simple power on all the time switch is just a wire run from a hot source in the fuse box, or the battery, to a switch. Not much involved in that. But I guess they didn't figure on most people wanting the "factory" look and be able to use the switches already there. Maybe they will change it around a little next year if there is enough demand.
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Thanks for the response. This morning I decided to call the Ford SVE folks. I figured I would be lucky to speak with an operator, let alone a tech; boy was I surprised. Got to talk with two techs. One is the electrical expert. He completely understood my question before I was halfway through asking it. He admitted some of their early bulletins (including Q108) incorrectly show the uplifter switches being hot in ACC-RUN. He suggested I look at SVE Bulletin #117. I haven't had a chance to look for it yet. And he also suggested a different circuit to power the coil side of the uplifters relay in order to add ACC hot. It will take a little bit of rewiring and I will post the results as soon as I get a chance to tackle the rest of this project.
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Wanted to bring this thread back up to find out if anyone has figured-out how to make the up fitters work without the key in hot possition? I hook up my horse trailer when dark and use aux back-up lights that I installed. I don't want the 12v lead on trailer harness to be hot when I make the conection. I am not what I call electricaly inclined. Thanks for any help
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After reading the Ford SVE Bulletin QVM 117, (www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas)I decided to have a go at rewiring the upfitter switches relay. I exposed the wiring by dropping the fuse panel and cut circuit 1717 (violet and purple) and connected it to circuit #48. Sorry but I can not remember the color of that circuit, but any acc/run source should work. I used an inline fuse because I had one handy. Not sure it was critical to fuse that connection. I had planned on looking for an unused location on the fuse panel, but it was easier install a tap and run. Anyway, it works well. The upfitter relay now switches the upfitters on in accessory as well as run. I think that is the way Ford should have done it at the factory. Good luck.
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rv7 thanks for the info.
franklin2 I guess I'm a bit old school when it comes to electric stuff. In my mind it's the same idea as plugging in a light to turn it on. I don't want to risk sparks flying if something were to go wrong.
franklin2 I guess I'm a bit old school when it comes to electric stuff. In my mind it's the same idea as plugging in a light to turn it on. I don't want to risk sparks flying if something were to go wrong.
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Originally Posted by tazo
Wanted to bring this thread back up to find out if anyone has figured-out how to make the up fitters work without the key in hot possition? I hook up my horse trailer when dark and use aux back-up lights that I installed. I don't want the 12v lead on trailer harness to be hot when I make the conection. I am not what I call electricaly inclined. Thanks for any help
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