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When hooking accessories to the uplifter switches, does the truck have to be "on" to have power to the switch? About to add some things and want to control them thru these switches but want to be able to do it without having to start the truck or have key in the "on" position.
also can someone provide a link to the wiring diagram for a 2012?
This might sound dumb, but I just bought a truck that had the switches factory installed for the first time and I haven't hooked anything up to them yet. When I first got it, I flipped them up just to check it out, and the little lights at the end did not go on. Is that how it's supposed to be? Will they light up when I eventually have it sending power to something?
This might sound dumb, but I just bought a truck that had the switches factory installed for the first time and I haven't hooked anything up to them yet. When I first got it, I flipped them up just to check it out, and the little lights at the end did not go on. Is that how it's supposed to be? Will they light up when I eventually have it sending power to something?
If wired correctly, when the truck is running or ignition is in the on position, the upfitter switch should light up when flipped up to the on position whether or not you have anything plugged in. Something wrong there if there are no lights and the truck is running or key turned to run - I don't think they work in accessory position, but I could be wrong - haven't used them in that position before. Time to check some fuses and/or connections if that is the case.
If wired correctly, when the truck is running or ignition is in the on position, the upfitter switch should light up when flipped up to the on position whether or not you have anything plugged in. Something wrong there if there are no lights and the truck is running or key turned to run - I don't think they work in accessory position, but I could be wrong - haven't used them in that position before. Time to check some fuses and/or connections if that is the case.
Yeah, you were right. Took it to the dealer and they replaced all the switches under warranty, and now they light up. Glad I figured that out before trying to wire anything to them!
Glad to hear everything worked out. The Upfitter switch harness connects directly to the main wiring harness connector and should work with the ignition in the on position. The dealer has to replace a part in order to be paid for a warantee repair. My guess is one of the relays in the relay panel or one of the harness connectors was not properly seated.
can you bypass this and make them hot all the time? If so how hard? Anybody done a write up?
I have been meaning to take a look at this for a long time. I know some guys have run a seperate power wire from the battery to power the upfitters relays. I think there may be a simpler way.
Take a look at the "sketch". All you should have to do is splice into the YE-RD at C265 (pin 7) which is hot at all times. Then cut the VT at C2280B (pin 6) and connect to it.
The "power" to the unfitters is not at all times, it is the the voltage switching the relays that is switched in run or acc.
The connectors are close to each other by the BCM. It would be a short wire