When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
After I installed a new starter in my f150 1978 truck it starts great the first time. After I run it for 30 hour or so and try and start it again I can't get enough juice to turn the fly wheel. This also happened this winter. I couldn't start it without jumping it.
Is it the battery, or is something up with the flywheel?
sounds like heat soaking to me. Although, twice now I have bought starters from NAPA, one for my 351 and the other for my 302 and the first lasted a week, the other two months.
Make sure you have a good strong negative to block battery cable and that all the connections are clean.
I agree a heat sheild would help and I will get one, but that does not tell me why it doesn't work in the winter when I try and start it. That problem must be with the battery.
I will get a new high gauge negative battery cable and a heat sheild thanks for your help will get back with you if that solved it.
Man,
Does your vehicle ever start hard from a cold start? or just hot? If just hot, then consider timing. Too advanced timing can stop a starter in its tracks.
Are your valve seals worn badly? If valve seals leak bad enough, a hydrostatic lock can begin to occur. This will only happen on a hot start. Oil will eventually leak to the bottom end, say overnight.
Does your vehicle run hot? Again this is a symptom of advance timing.
Secondly, a flywheel cannot stop a starter and if it did the starter would stay engaged after starting.
Is your battery charging OK? Check your battery terminals and cable connections for corrosion. Check your motor to body ground while your at it.
My Way is the Highway
KingFisher
1: After it has been run for over 15 minutes( always have to wait about 1/2-1 hour before I can start it again even with a jump)
2: In the dead of winter (I assume the battery doesn't have enough cranking amps to deal with this in the winter)
When you mentioned advanced timing what exactly do you mean? I will check the valve seals when I get home.
The truck does not run hot at least according to my gauges, but the raditator does get considerably hot, while the raditator fluid has been flushed and added properly.
It does leak quite a bit of oil at the bottom, but I suspect that is unrelated and more so related to a bolt stripped on the oil pan.
I know the vehicles are different, but, I had a 1970 Buick GS with a 455 and it did the same thing. It happened to me in January (On the Canadian Prairies) at -35F. The only saving grace was that it didn't take long to cool down. A boost did absolutely nothing to help. Changed the starter and never had the issue again.
Buy yourself a $15 ac\dc voltmeter and check your battery voltage before you ever start your vehicle in the am------then when problem manifests itself check the voltage again-----you should have atleast 12volts dc across battery terminals(engine not running) and 14.xx something with engine running and no lights or heater turned on!!!Even if you had your system flushed that maynot clean out the vertical cooling vanes in the radiator-----you may need to have it "rodded" out and then put back on the vehicle-----also a fan clutch maybe in order----------SUMMIt has a very good heat shield for your starter for about 30 , you might also check Motor haven for one..........fd :-X11