So I searched and found a few things but none were the same as my problem.

83 F250 Diesel, ATS Aurora turbo 4x4 t19....blah blah blah

Went out to start the truck this morning and it turned over great, warmed up the glow plugs manually and it started like it always does. Remembered I had a few light bulbs to change so I shut it off and went inside to grab the new marker lights. After the job went to start it...click

So, put the charger on the batteries until there was no voltage draw...click. Cleaned all battery terminals...click. Jumped the starter solenoid off the positive terminal...click. Jumped the starter solenoid from hot post to hot post and the starter let out a click.

Pulled the starter, went to Napa...$178 for a new one....ouch. Tested my old one while I was there and it failed all tests. Had them test the new one before I left to make sure it was good. Passed all the tests. Installed new starter and it started like a dream.

Later after running errands and such and probably 6-7 starts...click....with a brand new starter. Jumped the starter solenoid and the solenoid on the starter clicks but no rotation....this thing is brand new... What are the chances? Is there anything else I should be looking at? Batteries appear to be good, I don't know the history on them. All connections are tight and cables in good order.

Very frustrated with the "click"....can it really be the brand new starter is dead that fast??? Not even 12hrs in it?

Thanks for reading!! Hope some of you have something that I haven't tried already....otherwise it's back to Napa for another starter.

 

For 178 that was a reman starter.

First go down to a local parts store and have the batteries load tested.
When they test the batteries, that must be checked one at a time with the cables off one of the batteries.

Also have then check the alternator output.

Now look at the positive battery cable by the passenger side battery.
Does the insulation look swollen near the battery terminal?
Does the insulation look like it has been hot?

Either of the above are signs the cable is corroded inside the terminal and not making a good connection.

 

Mine did the same thing once. It left me stranded. Called a mechanic friend of mine and he said hit it with a hammer to get it unstuck. Got me home. I did find out that I needed a new cable. Dont know how hitting it with a hammer fixed that, but it worked.

 

Hitting it with a hammer might allow you to get it started if your brushes are stuck. Its not a long term fix but it might allow you to start it a couple more times.

 

I replaced my starter with a Napa, it went dead in a week, they gave me one free, lasted 2 years and counting.

 

I'm going to pull the batteries and replace them tomorrow. What batteries would you recommend? I am also going to pull the starter and have it checked and exchange if they have another in stock. I'll let you guys know what happens. Thank you for the help, I appreciate it.

 

I have two Interstate 850CCA batteries. Works fine for now.

 

Hoping to get bigger batteries and a bigger alternator.

 

I have two interstate Megatrons in there now. I think they are both 750CCA. Are the alternators in these trucks not sufficient?

 

That depends on what you do with the truck.

I am running two 1000 CCA batteries and a 150 amp alternator.

When I am plowing snow at night, between all of the lights, the heater going wide open, the stereo blasting and the snow plow motor running almost non stop in small lots I have to be careful about not stalling the engine.

Out in big lots, there is no problem since the plow motor runs less and the engine speed is higher.

 

Woke up early this morning, going to go buy some new batteries and another starter. Hope this solves the problem long term.

 

Someone will correct me if Im wrong, but I think the stock alternator is 70 amp. I have seen up to 200 in aftermarket ones.

 

Don't Know If They Are The Same But I Was Able To Get A 100amp Alt For My 88 From Napa

 

Guys,

Be careful with the replacement starters that are being offered these days for your trucks. The factory original Mitsubishi starters are the best but are no longer being manufactured unfortunately.

If you starter goes south try and find a starter rebuilder that can service your old starter.

I just brought my Mitsubishi starter from my 91' F350 in as it would spin every couple of days and not engage. First they wanted me to buy one of those new powerstroke starters for $180. I took one look at the new starter and told them no way. The thing weights about half what the old one does and is about half the size. They tried to convince me that both my old and the new starter are 12.5 kW starters but you know darn well that if you crank that new starter to long it will burn out before you can say "glow plug is not working".

Also the newer powerstrokes engines have a lower compression ratio (18:1 vs. 21:1) so I don't care what you say those new starter won't last as long in an IDI as the Mitsubishi's do especially if you end up cranking it a lot.

Turns out all my old starter had was a bad solenoid connection and it also had some oil in it that had leaked over the starter motor from the rocker covers. The total bill to overhaul my old starter (including machining of the contacts, new brushes, new solenoid, general clean-up and paint) cost me $120.

The worst part of the job as always is that darn top mounting bolt which is a bit of a struggle to get in and out.

So if you still got a Mitsubishi starter try and get it rebuilt first before you replace it with one of those new PS starters. I would recommend "Brighouse Auto Electric" if you happen to be in Richmond, British Columbia Canada.

Seb.....

 

A Mitsubishi starter is 3.6 Kw or 300 amps at 12 volts.

12.5 Kw would be 1041.6 amps at 12 volts, better get several more batteries and bigger cables with the starter.