Hello I am getting ready to buy some enamel type paint for my '65 F100. I am not doing a show quality restoration and have never painted a vehicle before. I do not want to spend big bucks on the paint. Is paint code "M" Wimbleton white and is this a more cream colored white? Should I go with this color or is there another white of that era which is the cream colored white I recently saw on a truck which looked very nice. Thanks, Don

 

"M" is for Wimbleton White. I'm working on a 66 that will also be my first paint job and it appears to have started out life as a white truck, but the paint code isn't on anything that I have found. I've been told that white is the easiest color to spray as it is more forgiving than any other color. Good luck!

 

Anyone have an preferences for online automotive paint purchases. I haven't really found any shop/retailer around my parts worth anything - we used to have milwaukee paints that all the car painters went to but I believe that has long been gone.

 

I can say that not all wimbledon whites are the same. I bought Summit Racing's WW for my '65, and it's quite a bit "creamier" than I expected, and not quite the same as the white that was on it. I had a 1980 Dodge pick up that was WW, and it was quite a bit whiter that the Summit paint that I got.
Any rate, although not was I was expecting, I went with anyway. Now that the paint is done, I'm pleased with it.

 

I know this is an ancient thread, but I need to correct an error, since new posts have awakened it.

Wimbledon white, COLOR code M was introduced in 1964 and this is a creamy white.

However, the 1960/63 white was also COLOR code M .. but was for Corinthian White, a different shade.

Also available was Pure White, COLOR code C

 

If you have an Axalta "think DuPont" dealer around their Nason line is reasonably priced. The single stage urethane has excellent coverage and very good flow out and not much tendency to run if you get a little carried away. Their Wimbledon white was a near perfect match to some old paint chips I had. Whites are one of the hardest colors to match so wherever you buy the paint, buy all you think you are going to use and blend it together. Otherwise, if you run out you may find the next can isn't the same.

 

Paint prices were always crazy, even in the 70's. When guys spend $400 a gallon it better last till they die. If the spouse spends $3.85 per ml on nail polish that equals $14,000 a gallon, it's ok if it chips off n 3 days. Just saying. Somehow, I thought I was replying to the Bahama blue post. Sorry for any confusion.

 

While we are on this thread, and activated current, I have a suggestion.
I was once a "first-timer" for an overall paint job. Yes, I boogered the chevy white applying too heavy with poor indoor lighting.
I wound up waiting a few weeks for cure, and wet sanded out the runs and then re-shot the paint outside in broad daylight to see what I was doing.
The second time around resutl was very nice, and I think I even thinned the paint a bit more, and was more careful on avoiding applying paint too heavy.

Because you doing an over-all paint, and probably inside of box, and if box is removed, possibly painting back of cab and front of box, and maybe inside of cab, my suggestion is to purchase one-more gallon of paint. Take all gallons of paint, and pour them all together in a large 5-gallon bucket and mix thoroughly together.
Then pour back into the 1-gallon paint cans. By doing this, if you do paint pieces separately, this will give you your best color match between pieces.
Note: on my '77 Ford longbed crew-cab pickup, cab and box painted separately, I used 5-gallons of PPG single stage acrylic.
The 5-gallons used also included the inside of cab and doors. The paint sure got used up quick. Oh, and paint was non-metallic.
I have also used Nason "shop-line" single stage very successfully too.
For a real shiny finish, if you choose to spray a 2-stage system (basecoat and then clearcoat) the clear will give you a very nice shiny finish.
I am no expert, but when I sprayed my first 2-stage finish, the nice thing about this was that the basecoat has "indefinite" pot life, because no catalyst harner.
The clearcoat finish has a catalyst harder.

Good luck and have fun. Be clean and take your time.