Good Morning,

I posted a few weeks ago about the idea of swapping my power steering for manual...as I was thinking l fewer parts to go bad. I took the advice from the board and kept the power steering and installed a new gear box (as a sieve leaked less than it did.)

Got it done last night and drove today for the first time. Steering is better...but still a lot of play...and the pump is whining at slow speeds. So...before I invest in a new pump (the previous owner said he had recently replaced it)...could it be that there is still air in the lines that needs worked out? Also...if I replace the pump...will that possibly resolve the play issue...or is play more a symptom of bad tie rods?

Thanks for your insights. Have a good day.

Bud

 

I would check your tie rods and joints. Grab hold of it and give it a good shakin. If they wobble, replace them. They should be fairly snug. I don't know about the whine, but that sounds like what air would do.

 

Did U Adjust The Gear With Allen Wrinch And 5/8 Box End Wrinch??

 

I did give things a good shake...and it seemed fairly tight....but I'll probably replace things as I get cash to do so. Right now...brakes and shocks seem to be the biggest need. The steering...though not great...is tolerable.

As far as adjusting the gearbox...I did not. I just put it in place and hooked it up. I figured it was set when it was rebuilt...so I didn't want to screw anything up. The adjustment though looks like a flat screwhead instead of allen wrench. Is there another adjustment I'm missing?

Thanks for the input. Have a good day.

 

Be careful at adjusting the gearbox. To much of a good thing here can be disastorious. How much play is in your steering wheel. One inch side to side is about normal (used box), but for me that is just too much. You should see movement just as you turn the wheel. If there is more, then the gear was not adjusted properly. Do it slowly, 1/2 turn at a time. You can tell if you have went overboard, the steering will not return on a turn (been there done that, can be quite frightening). If you are at this point, back off one turn and you should be fine.

The whine you hear could be from air, it is a devil to get out and will usually cure itself after about fifty miles. If it does not, then the pump has been run dry and you are hearing the bearings. Funny thing about Ford pumps, they can whine for years and still do their job or fail tomorrow. Had that happen too.

 

There is about three inches of play before it feels like the steering grabs and moves the front wheels...and then it feels like the truck moves a lot more than the amount of steering should have moved it...and I have to over correct. When I bought it, the truck had installed a stupid, smaller "sporty" steering wheel...and I think this might be causing part of the issue...as I have to turn more to get the same amount of input a larger wheel would have done with less. But I still think there is a play issue as it takes several inches of movement before I feel the steering provide feedback.

I think another part of this issue is perception and bad shocks...as a turn initiates a "flex" and it feels like the truck dives down in the direction of the turn. If I am just sitting parked and bounce my butt up and down in the seat...the truck will bounce several times before stopping. I think when I make a turn...the weight of the truck moving in the direction of the turn (due to bad shocks) causes the center of gravity to be thrown...and my need to over compensate to readjust and try to keep it straight.

Does any of this sound plausible?

 

Yes it does. What you are feeling in the gearbox is the back lash (free play). You start the turn, the sloppiness takes over, you correct, the sloppiness is back, you correct again.

Weak springs will also cause the effect you are describing.

A small steering wheel is for show, not go. I suggest changing it back.

Then tighten the box a little and see what happens. You can pick up a set of gas shocks for about $28.00. per axle. Cheap shocks are better than no shocks at all. Try the gearbox repair and the cheap shocks.

If this cures it, then replace the shocks later with a good set of gas magnums or similiar.

 

What about the flex/slip joint at the gearbox on the steering shaft, have you checked that? and the U-joint near the column? ...What about the lower column bearing that supports the steering shaft?

If you have 3 inches of play in the steering wheel before it starts pushing the tires, Either the gearbox is not mounted correctly/cracked frame, the pitman arm is worn.......or you have a problem somwhere in the steering shaft.

 

power steering bleeding process.
<HR style="COLOR: #666666" SIZE=1><!-- / icon and title --><!-- message -->1. Raise the truck up with a jack and put jack stands. Now remove the coil wire.

2. Turn the ignition key to engage the starter (engine will not start), rotate the steering wheel right to left one time and back to center.

3. In the engine compartment inspect the power steering fluid in the power steering pump unit for air bubbles. Make sure all air bubbles have lifted and cleared in the powersteering unit. Top off to the recommended level on the power steering dip stick with TYPE F transmission fluid which is recommended for these power steering unit.

4. Turn the ignition key to engage the starter (engine will not start), rotate the steering wheel right to left one time and back to center.

5. In the engine compartment inspect the power steering fluid in the power steering pump unit for air bubbles. Make sure all air bubbles have lifted and cleared in the powersteering unit. Top off to the recommended level on the power steering dip stick with TYPE F transmission fluid or other ford OEM approved power steering fluid which is recommended for these power steering unit.

6.Continue this bleeding process till you see no air bubbles (step 4. and step 5.) .

7. Now place the coil wire on truck and start the engine. If the power steering continues to make noise, you will have to replace the power steering pump.

You can now remove the floor jack stands from under your truck. It is important that you use Type F or other ford OEM approved power steering fluid into the power steering unit.
<!-- / message -->

 

Inspections of Worn Parts


<HR style="COLOR: #666666" SIZE=1><!-- / icon and title --><!-- message -->The play is probably due to worn part(s).
Inpect for worn parts or play, any of the following:

1. Inpect the tie rod ends.
2. Check the steering gear box for play. Can tighten the sector shaft adjustment screw to reduce play, do not overtighten.
3. Check the steering gear box mounting bolts are tight.
4. Check radius arm bushings for wear or crack.
5. Check gear coupling assembly (aka rag joint) on the steering column rod for play.
6. Check the shaft and joint assembly on the steering column rod for play.
7. Check for play the drag link.
8. Inspect the front wheel. (the front wheel bearings for play)
9. Inspect the king pins (aka spindle bolt) or ball joint for wear.
10. Verify correct tension on power steering belt. (tighten belt if neccessary).

Let us know what you found?

__________________________________________________ _________________

_1975Ford__________________________________________________ _________
1975 Ford F150, 4x4, 390cid, 4 speed
1975 Ford F250, 4x4, 400cid, 4 speed
1976 Ford F150, 4x4, 360cid, 4 speed
1978 Ford F150, 4x2, 302cid, 4 speed

 

just a question here how much play should there be in the king pin?

 

The king pin play should be minimal, and should not wobble back and forth or side to side.

 

75..that has leaf springs right?

check the ubolts...sounds like theyre loose, and allowing the frontend to move side to side.

 

ynevada, king pins in the spindle and I-beams in either coil springs or leaf springs, in the trucks, in the late 60's and 70's.