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  #1  
Old 07-29-2005, 11:22 PM
DYDF250
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Help, Help

I hope I can get a few replys on this thead, Im kind of dissapointed on NO replys to my first post.

I dont know what the normal sound that my 7.3 should be making, I look around at the threads and still become clueless on if my truck is knocking or just a normal deisel rumble. History on my truck 95 auto, Im getting 19 mpgs consistanlty, if I had a bad knock/rod going what would be the signs other than noise. I get a little smoke on start up, nothing while I drive, I idle at 600 - 700rpms, I have great power at a stop and while at speed, I can pass a crotch rocket like it was standing still. Some say CPS, injector, or go to a HX mod??. One where is the CPS, two, in my neck of the woods a CPS is 300 beans$$. Injector? how hard is it to change out one, what to buy do just # 8injtr, I like to do the work myself and have done alot on my old truck, so I need some advice. If it was a bad rod what would I be looking for or feeling from my truck??

MB
 
  #2  
Old 07-30-2005, 12:31 AM
chapguy
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May not be much mechanical help to ya but I can tell you that my 95 PSD sounds like it's on its last leg compared to the newer ones. Runs great, 145K on the motor and it's 100% healthy but it is LOUD and has a noticeable knock to it. I figure that's just the nature of the beast. It's my first diesel and this is the best truck I've ever owned (and I've owned a LOT of trucks in my time).

As for the CPS, check this out. It's a pretty handy quide to have sometimes.
 
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  #3  
Old 07-30-2005, 12:46 AM
DYDF250
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Thanks Chapguy for the reply

I have had mine for over a month and been everywhere with it and no one has said, Hey that truck sounds bad. I have been to a mech for front end work and to my parts dealer to many time to count for other parts. Like I said, and like you have said it runs loud but it still has all the ***** a 7.3 can deliver. thanks for the guide(chart).
 
  #4  
Old 07-30-2005, 06:13 AM
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On a gas engine the main will be loud at start up. Then it goes away as it warms up. The rod is quiet at start up but gets noisy as it warms. Probably the same in a diesel. But who could tell with a diesel? That said, my 96 PSD also sounds bad at times, but I think it is the way they sound. I thought my 90 IDI sounded awful, but it keeps going like the energiser bunny. Sometimes my 96 sounds great. 5 minutes later it sounds like a knock. Runs fine, no smoke. Starts great. They just make noise. You could trade on a 6.0. I hear they are quiet. But you will be buying a whole new set of problems.

Full price on the CPS I think is about $185.00. (check our sponsors for prices). It takes a 10mm wrench. Never did it but they say it is easy. No idea on the injectors. Maybe do a search to get more info. I would not start changing things without knowing for sure what if anything is wrong. Good luck with it.
 
  #5  
Old 07-30-2005, 06:34 AM
JOE-M
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Since your truck isn't having any problems with the CPS right now, you have time to order one. I would look here: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214083. You can also look for one on Ebay, but keep in mind that there are two kinds. One for older models and one for newer models. Make sure you get the right one for your year. And welcome to FTE.
Joe
p.s. fill in your signature describing your truck, it will help others help you.
 
  #6  
Old 07-30-2005, 06:38 AM
slc10844
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Originally Posted by DYDF250
I hope I can get a few replys on this thead, Im kind of dissapointed on NO replys to my first post.

I dont know what the normal sound that my 7.3 should be making, I look around at the threads and still become clueless on if my truck is knocking or just a normal deisel rumble. History on my truck 95 auto, Im getting 19 mpgs consistanlty, if I had a bad knock/rod going what would be the signs other than noise. I get a little smoke on start up, nothing while I drive, I idle at 600 - 700rpms, I have great power at a stop and while at speed, I can pass a crotch rocket like it was standing still. Some say CPS, injector, or go to a HX mod??. One where is the CPS, two, in my neck of the woods a CPS is 300 beans$$. Injector? how hard is it to change out one, what to buy do just # 8injtr, I like to do the work myself and have done alot on my old truck, so I need some advice. If it was a bad rod what would I be looking for or feeling from my truck??

MB
My first thought is it sounds like you might be hearing "cackle" caused by the number 8 injector (see below). I'm not sure if it applies to your engine or not. Has a chip or a tuner been installed? If so. it may be making the injectors work harder. You might want to do an oil change, switch brands of fuel, or put an addditive in the fuel tank like Stanadyne Performance Forumla and see if it has any affect on the sound.




^ ENGINE - 7.3L DIESEL - ENGINE KNOCK OR
"CACKLE" - 1999-2000 SUPER DUTY F-SERIES AND
2000 EXCURSIONS WITH ENGINE SERIAL
NUMBERS 661894 THROUGH 1311240 - ALL
1998-2000 E-SERIES WITH ENGINE SERIAL
NUMBERS 661974 THROUGH 1311240

^ NOISE - "CACKLE" OR ENGINE KNOCK - 7.3L
DIESEL - 1999-2000 SUPER DUTY F-SERIES AND
2000 EXCURSIONS WITH ENGINE SERIAL
NUMBERS 661894 THROUGH 1311240 - ALL
1998-2000 E-SERIES WITH ENGINE SERIAL
NUMBERS 661974 THROUGH 1311240

FORD:
1998-2000 E SERIES
1999-2000 SUPER DUTY F SERIES
2000 EXCURSION

This article is being published to combine TSB 00-22-1 and 01-14-6 as part of a consolidated 7.3L diagnostic aid booklet.

ISSUE

Some vehicles equipped with a 7.3L Powerstroke diesel engine with engine serial number 661894 through 1311240, may exhibit a noise above the normal sound of the diesel combustion. This noise may sound like a rod knock, but it is intermittent and increases in intensity as the engine warms up to operating temperature. This "cackle" noise may by caused by pressure variation within the fuel rail and in virtually all instances is attributed to cylinder # 8 (driver side rear). The "cackle" noise does not cause damage the engine, or impact the engine's performance or economy.

Engines after serial number 1311240 were built with a long lead injector in cylinder # 8 and correct calibration from the factory. It is possible for engines with the long lead injector, from the factory or installed in service, to exhibit a "lifter noise" (the long lead injector can be identified by the "LL" stamp on top of the solenoid.) This noise is typically most noticeable when the vehicle is parked next to a brick or concrete wall, such as at a fast food drive through. This noise is a normal characteristic of the long lead injector and is not a reason to replace the injector.

ACTION

Refer to the following Service Procedure for diagnostics, injector replacement, and Powertrain Control Module (PCM) reprogramming procedure.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

The "cackle" noise will typically be found early in an engine's life due to low fuel pressure and/or the relationship of injectors and engine firing order, or fuel pressure below specification. If a mature engine develops the "cackle" noise, low fuel pressure is the likely cause. Before making a repair attempt, the following tests should be performed:

1. Verify that the noise occurs with a hot engine, not cold.

2. Verify that the vehicle has been driven long enough to purge the air out of the high-pressure oil system and the fuel system since the last injector/high pressure oil system repair. Air trapped in the system could induce the "cackle" noise.

3. If the fuel pressure is less than 379 kPa (55 psi) in either head, repair it first and re-evaluate the "cackle" concern.

4. Repair any other engine driveability concerns prior to attempting a repair for "cackle". Example: low fuel pressure concerns may be causing low power and "cackle". Repairing the low fuel pressure may correct both concerns. Also, an engine miss may be an indicator of valve train concerns.

5. Verify that there is no air entering the fuel system. Air entering the fuel system will affect injector timing, causing unusual noise/performance.

6. The Injector Performance Analyzer can be used to determine if the "cackle" is coming from cylinder # 8. Cancel that cylinder to determine whether the noise still exists. "Cackle" cannot be identified using the Cylinder Contribution Test.

If the noise is only present when engine is hot, and:

a. no performance concern exists

b. fuel pressure is above the minimum specification of 379 kPa (55 psi)

c. there is no air present in the fuel/oil system

d. a long lead injector is currently not installed


then the engine is a candidate for a special Injector, F81Z-9E527-EARM (engine s/n 661894 - 896811) or XC3Z-9E527-AARM (engine s/n 896812 - end of 7.3L production).

NOTE IF THE NUMBER EIGHT INJECTOR HAS BEEN REPLACED PREVIOUSLY FOR A CACKLE NOISE CONCERN WITH PART NUMBER NOTED ABOVE, DO NOT REPLACE IT AGAIN. THE LONG LEAD INJECTOR CAN EXHIBIT A TICKING "LIFTER" NOISE AT NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERATURES. THIS IS CONSIDERED A NORMAL CONDITION AND DOES NOT REQUIRE SERVICE.

NOTE THE ENGINE SERIAL NUMBER CAN BE FOUND ON THE LOWER LEFT SIDE OF THE ENGINE BLOCK REARWARD OF THE OIL FILTER.

NOTE THE NEW LONG-LEAD INJECTOR FOR "CACKLE" NOISE IS USED ONLY IN CYLINDER # 8. DO NOT USE IN ANY OTHER CYLINDER DUE TO FUTURE CYLINDER CONTRIBUTION TEST DIAGNOSTICS BEING AT RISK. THE INJECTOR IS RECOGNIZABLE BY AN "LL" STAMPED ON THE SOLENOID WHERE THE UVC (INJECTOR HARNESS) CONNECTS.
Replace the # 8 injector by referring to the replacement procedure in the appropriate vehicle Workshop Manual. In addition to replacing the injector, the PCM MUST be reprogrammed to prevent the # 8 injector from flagging a false Cylinder Contribution Test code during future diagnostic tests. After the repair, realize that some small amount of "cackle" may remain.

NOTE VEHICLES BUILT WITH ENGINE AFTER S/N 1311240 HAVE CORRECT CALIBRATIONS FROM THE FACTORY
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  #7  
Old 07-30-2005, 08:20 AM
DYDF250
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More Info,

95 F250 ext cab long box w 3:55 Rear end, no mods, just a KN fltr, New fluids all around went w 5W 40 synt, I swear by my Red line additives. Does "cackle" apply to the 95 years. New CPS what will it do if its going, I have tach, one thing I have read that the tach starts to act up when the CPS is going.
 
  #8  
Old 07-30-2005, 08:30 AM
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1997F-350
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your truck will just randomly die if you are driving idleing or whatever. i doubt you have a cps problem. and a cps is around 45-70 on ebay. a hpx fromm dale @tymar may help smooth out your idle. i swear by mine. you may also wanna get an injector buzz test done on your truck just to make sure your running on all 8. also diesel kleen seems to help my truck smooth out and run quieter. you can find it at most parts stores $5 and works wonders. poor the whole dam bottle into one tank it wont hurt it. also if you havent done it yet you may also wanna clean fpr screen and do the fpr shim mod. very easy and effective. good luck
p.s. you need to lose your cat and get a new d.p. and it will make your truck run 10x better.
hey check this site out lots of good info in there about easy mods to do all the acronyms we use here and how your truck works.
 

Last edited by 1997F-350; 07-30-2005 at 08:38 AM.
  #9  
Old 07-30-2005, 08:44 AM
DYDF250
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1997f3350

Whats a fpr ,screen, or shim it give me more of a low down

thanks
Mark
 
  #10  
Old 07-30-2005, 08:52 AM
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Chapguy....that was a good pic.....where did you get that from?
 
  #11  
Old 07-30-2005, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by DYDF250
1997f3350

Whats a fpr ,screen, or shim it give me more of a low down

thanks
Mark
fuel pressure regulator.
there is a screen when you remove(two 10mm bolts i think) fpr from side of fuel filter housing that gets clogged with crap from orings and other debris.
as far as shimming the fpr. get an old tire gauge you dont care about and with your truck idling take a reading at the schraeder vavle.( that is on the drivers side of the housing looks like a valve for filling a tire.) if its under 65 or so you wanna shim it. that is done by removing the brass nut19mm right above that and placing a 3/16 bb in there. if you need pics of this let me know. btw ideal fuel pressure is 70-80 anymore than that and it overworks your fuel pump. i say 65 is the cutoff point because if its higher or close to that you will have to high of pressure after shimming. all this stuff is under the big black cover on top of motor. if more help is needed or pics just let me know. if you do shim take a reading after to make sure you are close to 70 +/- a few and not to high.

dont forget to look at that site in previous post and bookmark it. you will need it again trust me.
 
  #12  
Old 08-01-2005, 09:47 PM
DYDF250
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1997f-350

I have the site booked marked now, good info for all the lingo, if you could send the pics my way would be great. I have done a fpr on my old 93 f150, any other suggestions on hx mod, and the injector #8, I thought the hx was for newer models?
 
 
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