cps problem..probably?
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Benbrook,Texas
cps problem..probably?
I have a 97 f250 hd.. had my 1st cps problem at 80k. Fixed under warranty at that time.
i now have 170k miles and yesterday going down the highway it began to cut out and ended up coasting to a stop on the off ramp. Start it up and went 50 feet, stalled again. repeat. Had to get towed home. Sounds easy to fix, but would like 2nd opinion. Also, can someplace like auto zone run the codes for me to be sure? Is Haynes tech book the best manual to buy? Advice appreciated...
i now have 170k miles and yesterday going down the highway it began to cut out and ended up coasting to a stop on the off ramp. Start it up and went 50 feet, stalled again. repeat. Had to get towed home. Sounds easy to fix, but would like 2nd opinion. Also, can someplace like auto zone run the codes for me to be sure? Is Haynes tech book the best manual to buy? Advice appreciated...
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 824
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From: Helotes, Texas
First off, welcome to FTE! Yes, I agree it is more than likely a CPS problem. Some local auto parts places can pull codes (although it may not show any), call them first to make sure they have the right scanner for the PSD. Haynes books are okay, but I'm sure others will chime in there opinions as well. Good luck.
Max
Max
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Freshman User
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From: Benbrook,Texas
Thanks for the greeting... I forgot to mention that I filled up that morning. If there is water in the fuel does it need time to seperate? It ran fine on the way in, but going back 6 hours later is when it went whacko. I know I probably need to go ahead and replace the cps, but I hate to head in the wrong direction.
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 97
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From: Florida
Yes, you can drain the fuel bowl and see if that helps. For the Haynes book, I don't care for it at all. Waste of money in my opinion. You might call Helm's at 800-782-4356 and see what books are available including the wiring diagram book.
Best of Luck with the truck.
Best of Luck with the truck.
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Benbrook,Texas
I didn't pay attention to the tach at the time... I've read here today, that is a good indicator... I'll check this evening, I didn't drive it today, but I did start it and let it idle for 20 min. or so... of course no problems in my driveway...
What a great site!
What a great site!
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 256
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From: Denver, CO
Not having any problems today is a good indicator that it's the CPS. They seem so intermitant. Anyway it's a good idea to drain your fuel filter bowl with every oil change. I put a 3' piece of fuel hose on mine so it didn't dump all over the suspension.
J.D.
J.D.
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If you end up replacing the CPS and it does the trick, you're cured. If it doesn't then at least you've got the spare hanging around for when it DOES go bad. At $100 from an International dealer it's good road insurance. Better to know how to replace it in your driveway than to learn how on the side of a road in the rain.
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From: Florida
by the way, just sent this to medic66 on another post and thought it might help as a reminder if you do need to change CPS...
my search found these step by step instructions by wlihntr but I don't have a link including pics. Sorry about the lack of pics but maybe this will help since wlihntr is very thorough and knowledgeable.
Quote:
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=4 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD class=alt2 style="BORDER-RIGHT: 1px inset; BORDER-TOP: 1px inset; BORDER-LEFT: 1px inset; BORDER-BOTTOM: 1px inset">Originally Posted by wlihntr
Diagnosis: A bad cam position sensor is usually signified by the PowerStroke motor abruptly and unexpectedly quitting. The motor may also be suffering from slight power loss and slight increase in fuel usage which is usually not noticeable until it is seen as an improvement when the sensor is replaced. When the CPS causes the motor to shut down, the tachometer will not register. If the motor fails to restart, the tachometer will not register when the starter is turning the motor over. This may or may not cause the check engine light to come on.
Part Numbers: The International parts are usually half the price of Ford's, and I wouldn't buy one from Ford unless you absolutely had to.
International part numbers:
A change occurred mid way through 1997, so if you have a 97 it is best to look at the engine serial number. For serial number before serial number 375549 use PN# 1821720C98. For serial number 375549 (including this number) and after use PN# 1825899C93.
Ford Part Numbers:
For 1996 and older use PN# F6T012K073A For 1997 and newer use PN# F7T012K073A
Remove/Replace: CPS replacement is a very simple process. It is located at the 10 o'clock position of the crankshaft pulley and secured with one 10 mm bolt. Removing the serpentine belt will facilitate the removal.
Step 1) Make sure key is off and disconnect battery or pull #9 fuse. This is always a good idea when working on engine electronics.
Step 2) Remove engine belt
Step 3) Unplug wiring plug from sensor by prying out on the little plastic tab and pushing it out of it's socket
Step 4) Use 10 mm socket with small extension to remove 10 mm bolt
Step 5) Clean any dirt or grease off of sensor and surrounding area to prevent contamination of crankcase oil and seal of new sensor
Step 6) Use pliers, pry bar, or whatever else to gently remove sensor by pulling it straight out. It may be slightly stuck and slight force may be needed to loosen it. It is ok to twist it in its socket to loosen it if necessary.
Step 7) Coat new sensor o-ring with clean engine oil and press sensor into hole.
Step 8) Replace 10 mm bolt, torque to 10 ft-lbs, or just make sure it is snug.
Step 9) Replace wiring plug by simply pressing it into position until you hear the holding tab click into place.
Step 10) Replace belt.
Step 11) Ensure battery has been disconnected or #9 fuse has been out for at least 30 minutes. After this amount of time, they can be replaced.
Step 12) Start engine and inspect for leaks or other problems. Make sure belt has been properly aligned on each of the pulleys.
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
my search found these step by step instructions by wlihntr but I don't have a link including pics. Sorry about the lack of pics but maybe this will help since wlihntr is very thorough and knowledgeable.
Quote:
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=4 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD class=alt2 style="BORDER-RIGHT: 1px inset; BORDER-TOP: 1px inset; BORDER-LEFT: 1px inset; BORDER-BOTTOM: 1px inset">Originally Posted by wlihntr
Diagnosis: A bad cam position sensor is usually signified by the PowerStroke motor abruptly and unexpectedly quitting. The motor may also be suffering from slight power loss and slight increase in fuel usage which is usually not noticeable until it is seen as an improvement when the sensor is replaced. When the CPS causes the motor to shut down, the tachometer will not register. If the motor fails to restart, the tachometer will not register when the starter is turning the motor over. This may or may not cause the check engine light to come on.
Part Numbers: The International parts are usually half the price of Ford's, and I wouldn't buy one from Ford unless you absolutely had to.
International part numbers:
A change occurred mid way through 1997, so if you have a 97 it is best to look at the engine serial number. For serial number before serial number 375549 use PN# 1821720C98. For serial number 375549 (including this number) and after use PN# 1825899C93.
Ford Part Numbers:
For 1996 and older use PN# F6T012K073A For 1997 and newer use PN# F7T012K073A
Remove/Replace: CPS replacement is a very simple process. It is located at the 10 o'clock position of the crankshaft pulley and secured with one 10 mm bolt. Removing the serpentine belt will facilitate the removal.
Step 1) Make sure key is off and disconnect battery or pull #9 fuse. This is always a good idea when working on engine electronics.
Step 2) Remove engine belt
Step 3) Unplug wiring plug from sensor by prying out on the little plastic tab and pushing it out of it's socket
Step 4) Use 10 mm socket with small extension to remove 10 mm bolt
Step 5) Clean any dirt or grease off of sensor and surrounding area to prevent contamination of crankcase oil and seal of new sensor
Step 6) Use pliers, pry bar, or whatever else to gently remove sensor by pulling it straight out. It may be slightly stuck and slight force may be needed to loosen it. It is ok to twist it in its socket to loosen it if necessary.
Step 7) Coat new sensor o-ring with clean engine oil and press sensor into hole.
Step 8) Replace 10 mm bolt, torque to 10 ft-lbs, or just make sure it is snug.
Step 9) Replace wiring plug by simply pressing it into position until you hear the holding tab click into place.
Step 10) Replace belt.
Step 11) Ensure battery has been disconnected or #9 fuse has been out for at least 30 minutes. After this amount of time, they can be replaced.
Step 12) Start engine and inspect for leaks or other problems. Make sure belt has been properly aligned on each of the pulleys.
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
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