running hot, water pump
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A 180 thermostat is minimum. You don't say what engine you are running so run a higher temp stat if that is what is listed for your engine. Higher temp stats help fuel mileage and engine life.
The fan shroud is required for fan efficiency. Below about 30-40MPH depending on aerodynamics the fan draws air thru the radiator. At higher speeds the vehicle motion forces air thru the radiator. Without a shroud the fan just stirs the air and the air behind the fan flows back around to the front. On older trucks and cars they used to run the fan very close to the radiator but that was not very efficient and often resulted in damage to the radiator if the fan flexed or the motor moved.
The fan shroud is required for fan efficiency. Below about 30-40MPH depending on aerodynamics the fan draws air thru the radiator. At higher speeds the vehicle motion forces air thru the radiator. Without a shroud the fan just stirs the air and the air behind the fan flows back around to the front. On older trucks and cars they used to run the fan very close to the radiator but that was not very efficient and often resulted in damage to the radiator if the fan flexed or the motor moved.
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From: Other side of the sunrise
I run a 180 in my 460. Also, you may be able to drill holes in a junk yard shroud for a different engine application. I had one from, I think, a 360 that I modified to fit my 460. At least I think it was a 360 shroud. Point is that you can probably get away with a shroud that doesn't fit quite right by drilling a couple of holes for bolts to the radiator. Junk yards are full of em.
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From: Other side of the sunrise
Torque, I didn't know that about gas mileage and engine longevity. You say that 195 would be better than a 180 for my 460? I trust your knowledge so if you reply as such, I will change over to 195.
Tim
Tim
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Part of the greater longevity we are seeing in the new engines is due to increased engine temps as well as the computer controls. The wear on engines has a lot to do with the temperature of the cylinder wall and some of the chemical reactions that occur there. The newer engines have advanced cooling system designs that are a lot better than the old non-computer designed systems so they can run even higher T-stat temps. The higher the temp the more energy they can get out of each gallon of fuel with the engine also. Extensive SAE testing has confirmed all of this. Go with the highest manufacturer specified temperature for your thermostat. Cylinder wear rates double with each 10°F drop in engine temp.
As an interesting side note since slothshady has a 300 is to check the amount of cylinder wear there is in each cylinder of "open" engines in the scrapyard. The straight six both Chevy and Ford show a decrease in the amount of wear front to back due to the colder water from the radiator flowing past the cylinder walls.
As an interesting side note since slothshady has a 300 is to check the amount of cylinder wear there is in each cylinder of "open" engines in the scrapyard. The straight six both Chevy and Ford show a decrease in the amount of wear front to back due to the colder water from the radiator flowing past the cylinder walls.
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Originally Posted by Torque1st
Part of the greater longevity we are seeing in the new engines is due to increased engine temps as well as the computer controls.
Not that I don't think you're a guru, Torque1st...
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There will be variations from engine to engine with what is tolerated by an engine design and temperature is only part of the equation as noted above. Generally the designers run the temp as high as possible on any given engine for economy and wear but sometimes there are performance considerations. -Tradeoffs! 
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From: Fayetteville, GA
ok same topic, somewhat different question. I have a 75 250 with the 360 in it that I have been having quite a problem with it running hot when it is sitting. I have the 19.5 7 blade fan with a clutch as well as a fan shroud. replaced the water pump, had the radatior flow checked and everything was good. it just isn't getting enough cooling when it is sitting. I hvae heard that the timing could have something to do with it, but the harmonic balencer looks like it needs to be rebuilt cause I had to do the timing by ear and test driving it to get it so it wouldn't ping at low rpm acceleration or back fire when it got into the secondarys. setting it at 10 degrees btdc according to the timing marks was no where near close. I don't know if this is similear to the orginial problem but figgured that I would give it a try. also I have a 170ish thermostat in the truck and I was wondering if that would have anything to do with it. The reason that I put it in there was so that I would have more time at stop lights before the truck gets hotter than I am confertable with. thanks for the info.
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running hot, water pump
1) Get thee to a fan shroud
2) Pony up the money for a new water pump, not one of the AutoZoo $19.95 specials. I got tired of changing water pump every 2 years with the rebuilds, and dealing with running hot along the way.
3) Have the radiator shop rod out your radiator. It's well worth the cost.
4) Do the above and you can run a 195 thermostat. Your engine will thank you.
Just my 2 cents (which is all I had left after paying the stoopid tax lo these many years)
2) Pony up the money for a new water pump, not one of the AutoZoo $19.95 specials. I got tired of changing water pump every 2 years with the rebuilds, and dealing with running hot along the way.
3) Have the radiator shop rod out your radiator. It's well worth the cost.
4) Do the above and you can run a 195 thermostat. Your engine will thank you.
Just my 2 cents (which is all I had left after paying the stoopid tax lo these many years)
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Questions:
A few question, trying to determine and I was wondering how would higher temperature thermostat benefit my old engine design (390 FE) with carburation.
Would the increase engine temperatures apply to the older engines being the older engines does not have the advanced cooling systems and is aspirated by a carburator and not the advanced electronic fuel injections?
What is the optimum chemical reaction and on and how does it effect engine cylinder wear rates? Can the older design and carburated engine also reach this optimum chemical reaction with higher thermostat?
As mentioned, the Ford and Chevy showed a decrease in the amount of wear front and back do the colder water from the radiator flowing past the cylinder.
What year of engines are you talking about?
It would also seem like a cooler running engine (150 degrees plus), not a colder running engine would increase the longevity of the engine.
Can the older design and carburated engine also reach this optimum chemical reaction with higher thermostat?
Originally Posted by Torque1st
Part of the greater longevity we are seeing in the new engines is due to increased engine temps as well as the computer controls. The wear on engines has a lot to do with the temperature of the cylinder wall and some of the chemical reactions that occur there. The newer engines have advanced cooling system designs that are a lot better than the old non-computer designed systems so they can run even higher T-stat temps. The higher the temp the more energy they can get out of each gallon of fuel with the engine also. Extensive SAE testing has confirmed all of this. Go with the highest manufacturer specified temperature for your thermostat. Cylinder wear rates double with each 10°F drop in engine temp.
What is the optimum chemical reaction and on and how does it effect engine cylinder wear rates? Can the older design and carburated engine also reach this optimum chemical reaction with higher thermostat?
Originally Posted by Torque1st
As an interesting side note since slothshady has a 300 is to check the amount of cylinder wear there is in each cylinder of "open" engines in the scrapyard. The straight six both Chevy and Ford show a decrease in the amount of wear front to back due to the colder water from the radiator flowing past the cylinder walls.
What year of engines are you talking about?
It would also seem like a cooler running engine (150 degrees plus), not a colder running engine would increase the longevity of the engine.
Can the older design and carburated engine also reach this optimum chemical reaction with higher thermostat?
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From: Long Island USA
Another thing to throw into the mix:
My 2001 V10 runs with a 185 degree thermostat, never rises above that (tested with a thermometer), and they last a LONG LONG time... 200K miles not being out of the ordinary with regular maintenance.
My '96 and '97 4.6L's in t-bird/cougar run w/195 degree thermostats, and sit at around 200 degrees.
Which lasts longer? Well, I haven't heard about any 4.6L's lasting that long ... maybe 150K with luck, but still...
Is it the V10's oil cooler? Is it the lower coolant temp? I don't know.
But, I don't buy the "higher temps make motors last longer" thing...
There is a point where you shouldn't go any lower. And, maybe that explains why boat motors in salt water show so much wear - 140 degree thermostats.
My 2001 V10 runs with a 185 degree thermostat, never rises above that (tested with a thermometer), and they last a LONG LONG time... 200K miles not being out of the ordinary with regular maintenance.
My '96 and '97 4.6L's in t-bird/cougar run w/195 degree thermostats, and sit at around 200 degrees.
Which lasts longer? Well, I haven't heard about any 4.6L's lasting that long ... maybe 150K with luck, but still...
Is it the V10's oil cooler? Is it the lower coolant temp? I don't know.
But, I don't buy the "higher temps make motors last longer" thing...
There is a point where you shouldn't go any lower. And, maybe that explains why boat motors in salt water show so much wear - 140 degree thermostats.
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