rust products
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rust products
I'm fixing a 1990 f-150. I'm poor so i'm just bondoing. I plan on sanding the crap out of it then treating it with a rust inhibiting paint. I bought ERF for my 1979 ford, it seamed to work ok, but still rusted threw. Whats the best stuff to use
Postmaster
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From: Virginia Beach
Whats EFR? I've had good results using ospho (or a knock off brand) on freshly wire brushed rust. Chemically converts the rust into a black, hard base to be sanded and painted. Not perfect, but does help "lock up" the rust wire brushing or sanding misses 
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I bought the osphos stuff. THank god i work at Ace and get a really good deal. Thats expensive stuff. Erf is "end rust forever" i bought it from jcw.com. $37 a quart. It dries really hard, to the point where it's hard to scratch it with a key. It still rusted through, but it will help hold the bondo in probably.
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From: Virginia Beach
Te "comparable to Ospho" stuff was $6 at advance auto. Its a phosphoric acid compound that turns into a zinc chromate when cured. I have a test section that has been painted sitting exsposed for weeks now, no rust yet 
Admom
Joined: Feb 2001
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From: Silver Springs
Hey Bodo - welcome to FTE & the Paint & Bodywork forum.
It really doesn't matter what type of rust inhibitor you use. All of them need to be covered with some kind of waterproof primer and/or paint. What these rust inhibitors do is covert rust to metal. And, as we all know, uncovered, metal turns to rust. I've used both Ospho & Metal Ready. I like them both for different purposes.
Good luck on your project.
It really doesn't matter what type of rust inhibitor you use. All of them need to be covered with some kind of waterproof primer and/or paint. What these rust inhibitors do is covert rust to metal. And, as we all know, uncovered, metal turns to rust. I've used both Ospho & Metal Ready. I like them both for different purposes.
Good luck on your project.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: South Georgia
The main/only ingredient in Ospho is Phosphoric Acid like the others wrote above. I just wanted to mention that Phosphoric Acid is also found at a lot of fertilizer/farm stores (Not at Tractor Supply or similar stores). I believe they use it as a liquid fertilizer?! Or at least some kind of additive to their fertilizer. The places I've seen it had it in large tanks. I'm sure they would sell a few gallons of it but I'm unsure of the potentcy. i know that with the Ospho be sure to use gloves, and I cover my eyes as well.
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From: west michigan
Can you prime over ospho or the advanced auto stuff? I tried, but the primer did not stick very well. What did I do wrong? I waited a few hours before I primed. Should I have waited for a day? I used it on an inner fender, just to try it out. I'm glad I did. Thanks
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From: Virginia Beach
The advanced auto stuff is supposed to be the primer as well. I just scuffed and wipped it down with mineral spirits. The Enamel I used was Norfolk paints "direct to metal" paint, and I just painted over it. Seems to be sticking well, no peeling or pulling. Though, you should let the converter sit for 24 or more hours before painting. I had some issues with the converter still curing under the paint, causing it to blister and erupt
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From: New Jersey
Originally Posted by OldBlue66
Can you prime over ospho or the advanced auto stuff? I tried, but the primer did not stick very well. What did I do wrong? I waited a few hours before I primed. Should I have waited for a day? I used it on an inner fender, just to try it out. I'm glad I did. Thanks
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