I'm trying to get the front suspension off of my 67, but these damn cotter pins are rusted in their holes. Any one have an idea of how to get them out?

 

If you can break it off, try driving a nail or punch on the end of it to force it out.




John

 

I have one that just completly came apart, but I can get all of it out. It's in a terrible spot, I may just have to split the nut.

 

I typically remove or cut both ends that stick out through the castle nut. Once the nut can clear the pin, or whatever is left inside, I can remove the nut while some of the piece is till inside of the hole. This allows me to remove the part and work on it in a more controlled environment.
If Intend to replace the part that I am removing, I just remove as much of the pin as possible and then lean on my 1/2" impact. My gun makes quick work of stubborn fasteners like this, and usually sheer the cotter pins right off. Usually ruins the nut and even the Tie rod end, but if I plan on a replacement anyway, it is no loss.
Once in a while I also use a drill to clear the broken keys out of the holes, but sometimes a drill just does not fit where I am working.

 

The ones I'm having problems with are on the trailing arms on the front differential. I don't want to trash the threads on the arm, and I will probably get new castle nuts for it. It's in a tight spot, that's why I'm having a problem getting it out. I might try to see if I can drill them out, I'll have to get the looped side cleard out, since that is the side I have access to.

 

That's not been my experience with shearing off cotter pins. :/
Maybe it's from the speed from the power tool ruining the bolt and nut,
since I have never used power tools for nuts? {shrug}

"9 inch Klein line pliers" :)

Large dikes would be a (better?) substitute to get a pin started moving.
Squeeze together or break off the split ends first then grip the head and
using leverage, pull on it just to move it a little. If it won't move with that
method and cuts the head off instead, then shear what's left -a little-,
kinda careful like, then back the nut up and remove the pieces.

They also sell a "bent, heavy duty scratch awl" for pulling cotter pins.
I have more luck with my line-pliers but the "cotter pin puller" is a real
useful tool to have for lots of other things so it isn't a waste of money
if it doesn't work for this job.

The radius arm nut isn't all that hard to get to so only the rust is really
messing with you. Right? Wrong?

Alvin in AZ
ps- Retired railroad signalape here, check out the cotter pins on some
switch points sometime LOL :) Almost all of them were re-used in the old
days and the line pliers and the top of the rail were handy to re-straighten
cotter pins, done thousands of 'm, no kidding. :)

 

Yep, the pins are rusted in solid. I tried using a heavy awl to get them out, just bent the awl! Not enough sticking out to grab with the pliers either.

 

Well, managed to get them out. Broke off as much of the pin that I could, and just drilled out the rest.