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77 f250 bogging under load HELP

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Old Jun 12, 2005 | 10:37 PM
  #1  
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77 f250 bogging under load HELP

77 f250 bogging under load HELP

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my new ride just got a new non leaking carb


77 f250 4x4 351m
holley truck avenger 670cfm



It was doing this before the new carb aswell, it will bog down and hesitate and damn near stall under load in any gear at lower rpms.


where do I start?


-gbm-
 
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Old Jun 12, 2005 | 10:43 PM
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Make sure all your vaccum lines are intacked and where there supposed to be, and check your timeing.

When was the last time it had a tune up?
 
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Old Jun 12, 2005 | 10:56 PM
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ya the vaccume lines are all good. and in there proper home.

My timing is set at 10 degrees initial and climbs up around 30ish what should it be set at? I hope thats good cause the dist. is stuck

define "tune up"

I just got the truck so havent done anything. the plugs look ok to me. the electrodes are still there, It was running really rich so maybe i should takem out and clean em the cap has some slight pitting in it but id say its acceptable, the rotor is about the same, as for the wires dont know what to look for there.

i have no problem replacing what needs fixing or maintenced but spending unnnecasary money isnt my cup of tea.

help me and tell me what are the sign of wear??



-gbm-
 

Last edited by Mil1ion; Jun 14, 2005 at 12:51 AM.
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Old Jun 13, 2005 | 09:34 AM
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Look at the electrode of the plugs, the edges should be sharp corners. As they wear they start to get rounded and the spark suffers. The cap and rotor will show wear on the electrodes too. There will be build up on them or melted looking spots. For wires check the ends for corrosion and use a ohm meter - high resistance is a sign of bad wires. If you find any of these problems replace the parts. I make it a habbit to replace the plugs every year and the cap/rotor/wires every other. Then I don't have problems. 30,000 miles is the suggested replacement interval.

Marty
 
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Old Jun 13, 2005 | 11:00 AM
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I'd worry more about fuel supply - when did you last change the filter?

If the pump is going, it might not supply enough fuel for full load.

Maybe even the strainer in the tank...
 
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Old Jun 13, 2005 | 11:33 AM
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define "tune up"
Spark plugs, wires, distrubtor cap, rotor button, (points?) air cleaner, fuel filter, oil change. I'm not a big fan of spending money on things I don't need either. However, when you buy an older truck like this, it's really not a bad idea to just go ahead and do it. It will make troubelshooting your problem less of a headache.
 

Last edited by deisele75; Jun 13, 2005 at 11:37 AM.
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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 12:30 AM
  #7  
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well I looked at everything again and there not new and show signs of wear so I just decided to do the tune up, its got new plugs, cap and rotor and wires on the way.


the bog is still there, granted i dont have the wires on yet.


i was on holleys websight and there trouble shooting section led me to think its the accelerator pump out of adjustment either too much or not enough.

how is the accelerator pump adjusted on a holley truck avenger?



-gbm-
 
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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 01:02 AM
  #8  
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As mentioned before.

Information on carburetors can be found on the manufacturers web site or even others,

http://www.carreview.com/pscParts/Ca...1_2889crx.aspx

This is an aftermarket part & a fuel delivery question.

We have a fuel felivery forum.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 01:06 AM
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I thought it was doing it with the old carb. too? How ever the accel. pump might be a slight part of the problem. Mechanical fuel pumps don't usually gradually go out, they work or they don't. Double check the vacuum hoses for proper routing then double even triple check them for leaks with carb. cleaner or something. Does it bog down more when it's cold? This would reinforce a vacuum leak or maybe the choke isn't working right? All new ignition components certainly would be good for the problem even if they aren't quite do for replacement. I'm really betting on something with the vacuum system. It worries me that the distributor is "stuck", or you sure your loosening the bolt that holds it in place enough, because if that isn't the case you might have a serious problem.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 01:12 AM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by fordflaresides
I thought it was doing it with the old carb. too? How ever the accel. pump might be a slight part of the problem. Mechanical fuel pumps don't usually gradually go out, they work or they don't. Double check the vacuum hoses for proper routing then double even triple check them for leaks with carb. cleaner or something. Does it bog down more when it's cold? This would reinforce a vacuum leak or maybe the choke isn't working right? All new ignition components certainly would be good for the problem even if they aren't quite do for replacement. I'm really betting on something with the vacuum system. It worries me that the distributor is "stuck", or you sure your loosening the bolt that holds it in place enough, because if that isn't the case you might have a serious problem.

It was like this when it was cold with the old carb but was fine when it warmed up, with the new carb its like this all the time, assuming the choke functions properly as its fulley open once its warm it cant really be the problem, the distributer is unstuck now, its set at 10 degrees intial (650 rpm) and climbs to a little over 30-35,


Ill try spraying some carb cleaner around the intake and hoses to check for leaks.


but just for the sake of posting how do you adjust the accel pump on it?


-gbm-
 

Last edited by gingerbreadmaniac; Jun 14, 2005 at 01:16 AM.
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