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Where did you ever get the idea that a house unit can only lower by 20 degrees?
That's plain wrong. 34 nominal degrees from a swamp cooler. Any amount you wish to pay for from a refrigeration system.
Down in the throat of our systems it gets below freezing, but due to the large vent system the output air is controlled at about 40.
Use a temp gun and shoot it down the throat, right after you first start it, and these trucks get as low as 15, till the system gets stable. Then the output air stays at 40 roughly.
And the green house is a major part, but so is the lack of insulation in the cab. They used quiet steel, rather than bulk insulation. They then increased the blower capacity to compensate
Chris
It was my understanding that the only place the QS is used is in the firewall.
We are experiencing 111-115 with high humidity locally. A/C works fine, nice and cold. The design is excellent, if you are having problems, get it fixed, don’t accept bad A/C because someone tells you it’s a weak system, etc.
Chris
Mine blows 42 if it's above 78 abient...it'll go about 40 if it's 70 or less ambient...really not cold enough. My buddy is an HVAC guy. We're going to charge it till we get the right vent temp.
It was my understanding that the only place the QS is used is in the firewall.
I saw an article on the making of the doors, and they are supposed to include the QS also.
I admit it was on the discovery channel and was probably wrong.
There is a bit of sound proof material inside the door. Not much though. Insulation adds weight.
Chris
Mine blows 42 if it's above 78 abient...it'll go about 40 if it's 70 or less ambient...really not cold enough. My buddy is an HVAC guy. We're going to charge it till we get the right vent temp.
I would.
I need a strong A/C due to health problems. And my F150 fills the bill.
I frequently get too cold on local runs, as I forget to unlock the compressor clutch. I use my A/C on full blast all the time, and prefer to moderate my comfort by releasing the clutch with the switch. Better for gas mileage that way.
Anyone who is not getting good results should be hammering on the dealership gate with a torch!
Chris
I can imagine some of you holding up a mounted thermometer to the A/C vents and hoping for a true reading. Try purchasing one of those thermometers that Air Conditioning and Heater guys have clipped in their pocket. The ones with the dial and numbers on a head about the size of a quarter with a 7" stem. They cost approx $6.50 at any Washer/Air Cond./Appliance outlet. Add to that some form of home made collor so the stemmed thermomenter does not fall into the F-150 A/C vent. I drilled a hole in a poker chip for a collar.
Numbers: When it is 100º outside ambient my A/C vent will read 120º. After 2 mins of A/C the A/C vent will read 55º. After 5 minutes which allows the A/C tubing to cool down my A/C vent reads 46º.
Like Chris I use the on/off clutch button to reduce the ice cicles in my cab. When it is 100º ambient I **** my A/C to #2 and turn the vent louvers away from direct body target.
Chris: Where I live, Central Calif., we are approx 5º below you in ambient tempreture. That is not much, but the 5º does make a difference as to when the heat really starts for the day. I'll be glad to mail you a poker chip if you have never been to Laughlin (ha!).
I can imagine some of you holding up a mounted thermometer to the A/C vents and hoping for a true reading. Try purchasing one of those thermometers that Air Conditioning and Heater guys have clipped in their pocket. The ones with the dial and numbers on a head about the size of a quarter with a 7" stem. They cost approx $6.50 at any Washer/Air Cond./Appliance outlet. Add to that some form of home made collor so the stemmed thermomenter does not fall into the F-150 A/C vent. I drilled a hole in a poker chip for a collar.
Numbers: When it is 100º outside ambient my A/C vent will read 120º. After 2 mins of A/C the A/C vent will read 55º. After 5 minutes which allows the A/C tubing to cool down my A/C vent reads 46º.
Like Chris I use the on/off clutch button to reduce the ice cicles in my cab. When it is 100º ambient I **** my A/C to #2 and turn the vent louvers away from direct body target.
Chris: Where I live, Central Calif., we are approx 5º below you in ambient tempreture. That is not much, but the 5º does make a difference as to when the heat really starts for the day. I'll be glad to mail you a poker chip if you have never been to Laughlin (ha!).
Hi Dazz, I usually have the switch on 2 also, seems the best on this rig. What part of central Cal hits 117? 122 was our hottest in July. On the other hand, this is the coolest August I have ever experianced around here.
Freaky, only broke 110 once or twice, and several days have been under 100. Nice out side, except for all the thunder storms.
Been up to Laughlin when the temp was 145 in the parking lot of a casino!
I am talking in the shade. Even on the boat on the river, under the shade, and with water temps in the 40's, the air temp was 135!!!!
Crazy place.
Chris
Hi Dazz, I usually have the switch on 2 also, seems the best on this rig. What part of central Cal hits 117? 122 was our hottest in July. On the other hand, this is the coolest August I have ever experianced around here.
Been up to Laughlin when the temp was 145 in the parking lot of a casino!
I am talking in the shade. Even on the boat on the river, under the shade, and with water temps in the 40's, the air temp was 135!!!!
Crazy place.
Chris
Oops! made a little error. I live in balmy Central Calif. where the hottest it has been was 105º.
I assume you take yur Motor Home to Laughlin? Riverside? I stay next door at the Flamingo. Covered parking. All the comforts of shade.
Oops! made a little error. I live in balmy Central Calif. where the hottest it has been was 105º.
I assume you take yur Motor Home to Laughlin? Riverside? I stay next door at the Flamingo. Covered parking. All the comforts of shade.
Only take the Class A up there in winter. Not enough A/C on the roof for summer. Also don't like the low power you get, 90-95 volts in the middle of the day. I usally stay, can't think of the name, but it's gravel across from the Flamingo, a short walk from that little mall.
For a good test of the A/C in these trucks try bumper to bumper, 5 mph in LA for four hours. Kept us cool and comfortable, watching other cars/trucks over heat.
Love this truck.
Chris
I use a TruTemp 4" thermometer in the vents...it lives there. Accurate to 1%
I don't think hitting the switch "locks" the compressor clutch...mine still cycles
I am talking about the manual A/C.
When you push the little button on the left, it stops the power to your A/C clutch.
The little green light goes out, and the compressor is 'out of the loop'.
Foreign cars have had that feature forever.
Works just as it's supposed to.
When that little green light is out, there is no A/C.
Now when you are on 'Max' both of the little buttons, the closed vent, or recycle are locked on.
The second button is to close the fresh air intake vent which is why it sounds louder on max. Because you've closed up the fresh air intake above the hood, the vents by the wipers.
So when you release the A/C button, the fans still spin, but the clutch releases.
Page 34 in 2004 owners’ manual, the number 5 at the top, and the picture is on page 33.
For maximum miles per gallon, you release this button on acceleration, on passing, on climbing a sudden grade. Then flip it back on when you feel warm.
Chris
I am talking about the manual A/C.
When you push the little button on the left, it stops the power to your A/C clutch.
The little green light goes out, and the compressor is 'out of the loop'.
Chris
Chris
You are correct. You press to "off" the little oblong button on the left below the Radio/CD. This allows the pickup engine to pull difficult climbs without the A/C connected. The only people that dislike this feature are the mechanics in Baker, CA. (known to frequent trvelers as Radiator City). The long haul up the Eastern mountain range plus the possible 100º temp calls for an A/C free engine so that when the smart people reach the top of the pull they can see the Caddys and Lincolns pulled over with steam coming out from under their hoods.
Chris, I am no AC expert nor do I know the systems in these trucks in every detail, but I think you have oversimplified it a little. Turning on the manual AC does not send power to the compressor. It sends power to a circuit that then decides when to engage the clutch. So Biggziff is correct in that the system is not locked on and will still cycle the compressor, and you are also correct that turning off the switch will indeed cause the compressor to unlock, there is just a little more happening between the switch and the compressor.
Chris, I am no AC expert nor do I know the systems in these trucks in every detail, but I think you have oversimplified it a little. Turning on the manual AC does not send power to the compressor. It sends power to a circuit that then decides when to engage the clutch. So Biggziff is correct in that the system is not locked on and will still cycle the compressor, and you are also correct that turning off the switch will indeed cause the compressor to unlock, there is just a little more happening between the switch and the compressor.
bleoh, I don't think you read my post that clearly. I have done automotive A/C professionally, not to mention sold a few dozen semi truck loads of A/C components.
I wasn't telling them how the relays, thermostat, superheat switch, etc. was supposed to work.
I was telling them how to stop the clutch from engaging and thus the compressor from cycling. It's actually that simple.
Um, if you ask me what time it is, I try to refrain from telling you how to build a watch...
Chris
That is what I thought at first, but did not think it addressed the issue of locking the compressor and the cycling that still happens. No need to get defensive, we are all just trying to help each other out here.