nafka

600 bucks for all that?

 

I had:
1983 Mustang 5.0
Blaupunkt head unit (forget model but cost $350 then new)
Passive 1/2 din eq under radio, tight fit (custom installed by me )
Still have picture of eq / deck install if anyone interested
5x8 3 way speakers in doors ( forget name but they fit)
2 amps, first amp forgot specs but other was 800 watts rms 1200 peak
2 10" woofers
2 12" subs

Let me tell ya.. people looked, people wanted to see the setup, don't need to say any more

I never stick with stock equipment. Sure some stock setups may sound good but aftermarket upgrades is the way to go!!

Paper cone speakers, if you have them, upgrade please.. so out of date and the sound can be so much better.

 

I went with Polk DB570's x 4 in my escape (buy a pair and 2nd's 1/2 off)what a difference.............BTW I have the 300 mach 6/disc changer. I always start with speakers......and you can upgrade from there. Mine doesn't shatter glass but for $149 total it was well worth it.If it didn't have the Prem. (sic) ford hu I would have installed speakers,HU and thrown in a amp but can't justify it now with the car payments etc.....
* I know I'll get flamed for using POLKS but for the $ I like them just fine!!!

"05" escape XLS Blast

 

ii hear polk makes good speakers, but have never owned them. i'm debating the polk DB570's or the Memphis Mclass 5x7, or alpine, (i think #57LS), or JBL, i already have a kenwood head installed and fosgate 301s on order. no sub yet. i understand door speakers need to be component style, not coaxial for best performance w/amp. but higher$$ but as already mentioned you got to pay to get quality sound! i would welcome any comments on the above speaker brands mentioned...got to get a pair fairly soon. i understand you need to match speaker RMS pretty close to amp RMS per channel., but just slightly higher on the amp. i am talking 75RMS x 2 from this 301s into 60RMS speakers., but no lower than 50RMS. anyone disagree? (i'm no expert) I don't care about peak, just looking at continous RMS for good match. thanks!!!!! paul

 

While it a good thing to know RMS ratings of amps and speakers, you must also know that these are only a very small part of a system's design. They are so the user knows his equipment's CAPABILITIES. That's what RMS is all about. CAPABILITES. There are users with amps CAPABLE of 1000 watts RMS driving speakers rated at 100 watts RMS. They are very experienced with system design and have much knowhow and common sense AND they know to connect everything properly AND use them properly. The thing is that an amp capable of 1000 WATTS RMS driving a speaker CAPABLE of handling 100 watts RMS at a humanly tolerable listening level with no distortion will come nowhere near that 1000 watts. That is a bit of overkill, but it's just an example. You can never have too much power at hand. It's how that power is put to use. I have an old muscle car that's CAPABLE of 500HP, but if I'm cruising at 2000 RPM down Main Street in 3rd gear, what am I actually producing? That power on reserve is always a good thing because it is easier for the amp that can produce 1000 watts RMS to drive any speaker to its optimum than it is for an amp that is CAPABLE of 100 watts RMS. It's better for sound quality reasons in high end applications. It's easier on the amp because the output devices are operating at a fraction of their CAPABILTIES. The amp may last forever. That example is one reason there are amps that cost $500 and a "seemingly" similar amp is $150. With a given output CAPABILITY one company may rate their amp at 100 watts RMS, while Linear Power or JLAudio or Audison may rate that CAPABILITY at 25 watts RMS. Remember that RMS can be a vague thing and must be used in context, taking into account the company publishing the ratings. A Rockwood amp at the flea market rated at 100 watts RMS that costs $75 will NOT be the same as a Audison amp rated at 100 watts RMS that costs $750.

 

thanks....so theres no real industry std for this? and then factor in the ratings of the speakers--if they vary also by manufature..then its really confusing to me on how to get a "good" match that wont cause damage to either component. I do realize many manufactures , esp low end, advertize max peak and don't show RMS., this gets customer attention when their shopping for a "highest ratting" for bragging rites. and don't reallly know what they got. I recon similar to advertized peak hp on our weedeaters-if you get to that point for a very brief period its smoked. So since companies have diff. rating systems, how does one "pick" speaker to amp combination? I guess the general rule sounds like, as you said, too much power from the amp isn't bad. even 2 or 3 to 1, so you would know , with the diff. rating systems, you've got a good cushion in there. You certainly would not want to be visa-versa. I'm just talking 5x7 drop in door speakers. I've got Memphis power ref. 40RMS w/Kenwood deck, no amp, and they sound pretty decent if you keep the bass down. Whats your top 3 favorites? (door coaxial speakers) I understand infinity kappa is also a good choice. thanks again for your comments!....paul

 

Correct, there are no industry standards for most specs published by manufacturers. For example, a low end amp may have published specs of 100 watts RMS per channel, but it may be at an outrageous distortion of 10%, which is very audible. A high end amp may have the same published specs, in terms of power output, but it may be at 0.5%, which is not audible.
Sounds like you have some pretty decent speakers. Sometimes what happens with just a HU as the amplification is that if you try to listen at anything above low to mid volume the HU amp is overdriven and distortion is heard. This WILL damage both the speakers and the HU. HU amps are NOT suited for anything more than low to mid volume. Add to that the fact that these speakers are trying to reproduce low bass and you can have a "sound quality nightmare". Most 5x7s are not capable of anything lower than about 70hz at an audible level. But, if there is no high pass filter on the speakers to keep out those frequencies, the speakers will try to reproduce them anyway, which leads to terrible sound. For a system to faithfully reproduce the entire frequency spectrum, it must have subwoofers, capable "main" speakers, proper amplifiers, and crossovers and/or filters to distribute those frequencies to the correct speakers. Nothing magic, just has to be done correctly. And, you can have all this without having an expensive, outrageous BOOMING system. There is nothing wrong with having an "average" quality system, if the user will connect everything correctly, and then USE the system within its design limitations. Such a system can last for years.
As far as my "favorite" door coaxs, that's tough, because I detest those types of speakers. Some that I have heard that are "decent" are Eclipse, Boston Acoustic, Kicker, Infinity Kappas, Alpine, and some of the more expensive Pioneers(not the ones that are $50 at Wally World). Most companies will have several "levels" of quality in their lines, so keep that in mind. Pioneer, for example, makes some pretty nice speakers in this type, but their low end ones are simply horrific. That is, unless one loves ear piercing, high frequency distortion.

 

thanks for your help.....do you happen to know what the max speaker mounting depth is for this '01 f150? (front doors) found some infinity kappa's for a nice price, there 2 7/16" deep. i'm down to this or the boston acustics FX8. What choice does one have on door speakers if you want to keep stock look, may want to sell it sometime and dont want to boch up the panels. I would presume round speakers are better than oval? generally speaking, due to physical shape of a circle, would produce better consistant sound waves? thanks again..paul

 

Sony CDX-C780 Head (w/CD changer control, MD changer control and aux in)
Pioneer 100x2 amp (fronts)
Pioneer 100x2 amp (rears)
(Will be replacing with Phoenix Gold OCTANE R5.0:4 4-Channel Amplifier for both front and rear, $92 on ebay new)
Phoenix Gold R6.5 COMP 6 1/2" components (fronts, $49 on ebay new)
Phoenix Gold R6.5 COMP 6 1/2" components (rear, $49 on ebay new)
2 Phoenix Gold Octane-R R10d 10" subs in a sealed box ($79 new on ebay, my original box)
Sony XM1000 300x2 (600 bridged) sub amp

Now, I've had some components from my last install (HU, Amps) but you can see it doesn't cost too much to upgrade, say $100+shipping for decent front and rears, $79 for 2 10" subs. Add a box, HU and amps and you can have a really good system. It's not competition, but I can tell you, tune it right and you will be SERIOUSLY bumping!

And sorry guys, 'factory speakers sound better'?!?!?! Have you even looked at the frequency response on factory spec speakers compared to most aftermarkets?! If you can't tell the difference in sound of a high-hat cymbal or electric bass when using factory speakers compared to aftermarkets, go get your hearing checked, 'cause you are deaf! I served 4 years split between artillery and infantry, and I can tell the difference from OUTSIDE the vehicle with the windows rolled up.

 

the best thing to do is to go to the local stereo shops and listen to the display options they have out. Many of them probably have some sale going on. such as buying a new head unit and getting a free speakers. anything is better than stock. you'll hear the difference once installed. 500.00 will get you a noticable upgrade from stock. Remember you can always upgrade later if you want that 300 to 500 dollar headunit. go for the store credit and get everything you want and pay 50.00 a month. what sounds good to one person might not sound good to another.

installing your self would be cheaper too. it's not that hard. just make sure you buy all the connectors and hardware for the install. buying the connectors and hardware at Wally world is alot cheaper than buying from the stereo shops.

 

I don't think the mounting depth will be an issue unless you get into some "high end" 6 1/2" components. Some of those have huge magents and could be a problem. Either of the two speakers you mention are pretty decent and will drop right in. As far as the round vs. oval issue, I believe that it's been proven that the distortion difference between the two is not humanly audible, IF they are crossed over correctly and are not trying to reproduce low bass, as mentioned previously. If you have no intention of running subs, attention must be given to keeping this low bass from the speakers you do use.

 

thanks for all the advice.....i have switched my amp to HP & adj the crossover frequency, and my Memphis power ref. speakers do pretty good, just little or no bass. Now another speaker upgrade....thanks again...paul

 

I am an infinity fan. But yes if you do it right the first time you won't be disapointed.

 

Just try everything out while your shopping. Then take the model numbers and shop on ebay! That is the better way, sometimes you get crap yet you might get tresures!

 

Infinity is good...if you get a chance, listen to some Phoenix Gold components...very nice