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Aside from taking the drum off, 4 bolts hold the axle in place, usually you won't need a puller. As you pull the axle out, you can pry down a little on the seal with the splined end of the axle and it should pop out. Use a suitable driver (big socket) to install seal. If it was leaking badly it might be better to also replace the bearing, as some say the grease might be "washed out" Good idea to replace anyway. Good luck
Good instructions for a 9", but that should have a D60 full floater out back. For that, pull the axle shaft, pull the hub, then turn the hub upside down. I believe the seal goes in flat side first, then the reassembly is the reverse. Your doing the brakes at the same time, right?
Last edited by Ford_Six; May 28, 2005 at 06:43 PM.
Yea, this all just started with a simple new shoes only brake job...now I'm looking a a complete brake system re-do. New lines, hoses, fittings, shoes and seals. The only thing I'm not replacing is the master cyl. I was hoping to get out for $30 but it looks like about $300 now. Oh well that is how it always goes right? Good thing I love this truck. It was my grandfather's and I think it has more damage from sitting than use.
I just finished doing exactly what you are doing. I did both sides for insurance. If you have not done so already, I would go to NAPA and get the socket that fits the bearing retaining nuts. I hope your lock washers are better shape than mine, replacements have been impossible to find.If you have any other questions, feel free to ask.
Opps, missed the 250. Just got through doing my son's 70 F100. Chalk it up to Sr.moment.... Good idea to get the axle nut socket. I have seen to many messed up by using a punch or chisel. One time I had to repair the lock by welding on a pieces of sheetmetal and allowing the lock to cool slowly as to keep the lock tab bendable not breakable.
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