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1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series All Ford Ranger and Mazda B-Series models

Shaking problem

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Old May 28, 2005 | 11:08 AM
  #16  
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From: Spring TX
Well, I replaced the wheels. Still shakes between 60-70, just not as bad. It's really getting old having to drive 55 mph all the time. I'm going to take it back to the mechanic and see if he can find anything now and if he doesn't, I may just have to drive it like this for a while because I just don't have the money to keep replacing parts
 
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Old May 28, 2005 | 06:22 PM
  #17  
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Help I M Stuck
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DRIVE SHAFT????? Check the balancing on it?
 
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Old May 31, 2005 | 07:59 AM
  #18  
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I vote for drive shaft also? I'm no mechanic but just went through some similar repairs.
 
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Old May 31, 2005 | 12:36 PM
  #19  
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Yeah, I'm thinking driveshaft also. I held it at 65 mph Saturday and the wheel doesn't shake, but you can see it in the dash and the passenger seat. And the passenger seat sometimes shakes side to side and sometimes front to back. If I run it up to 75 mph and put it in neutral, the shaking is unaffected, so I don't think it's the engine or transmission.

I just checked and I can get the ujoints replaced and the driveshaft rebalanced for $95, so that's next on the list as soon as I can find time and the weather lets up
 
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Old Jun 6, 2005 | 02:14 PM
  #20  
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Removed the driveshaft and had it checked out. They said the balance was good but the ujoints were bad. Lube had dried up, smelled burnt, and was starting to wear. They replaced them and rebalanced the assembly. Reinstalled it and it still shakes It did fix a small thump that I sometime got when I braked hard.

I went back in my log and this originally started two days after I had the tires rotated. But the wheel and tires have been replaced. What's next to check, rear wheel bearings?
 
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Old Jun 6, 2005 | 09:28 PM
  #21  
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check the rear pinion bearing..where the driveshaft bolts up to the flange...and rear wheel bearings.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2005 | 08:35 PM
  #22  
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Found some time to do some measurements today.

My generic manual doesn't have any specs on the rear end. But this is what I measured:

Side to side play on both axles: .020
Play in both axles moving flange up and down: .005 - .006
Driver side flange runout measured on side facing tire: within .002 mostly, but was .008 for about 45 degrees of rotation near one stud.
Ran out of daylight and couldn't check more.

So do any of these numbers sound bad?
 
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 07:10 PM
  #23  
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From: Spring TX
Exclamation Problem Solved!

I jacked up the front end yesterday to make sure my wheel bearings were still tight and spun one of the wheels. Much to my surprise, it looked like it was not round So I sat a flashlight next to the tire to have a comparison point and sure enough, the tire was out of round by almost a quarter of an inch! Both front tires were like this. So I had two brand new bad tires

Took it down to Discount Tire and told them what I found. They took off each tire and put it on the balance machine to check it out. You could plainly see the hop in the tires. They replaced both tires for free and didn't give me any problem

Left there, ran over to the freeway, and ran it up to 80. No more shaking
 
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 08:44 PM
  #24  
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Glad to hear you found the problem!!!
 
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 09:38 PM
  #25  
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Hey, that's good news. You really had to work the problem until you found the solution. Nice going!

Also, FWIW, regarding tires, I bought a set of Dunlops from Town Faire Tire for my Taurus GL a few months ago. Took the car home and the next day on the highway I noticed the car pulling to the left. So I take it back to TFT and they swap the tires around and I take if for a spin and sure enough, the car is now pulling to the right. Turns out that one of the tires has what they called "radial runout" which obviously affected the tire quite negatively. Generally, the Dunlop Citation is a decent tire, but evidently I got one of the bad ones out of the factory. TFT replaced the tire and I was good to go.
 
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