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As I was driving I started to notice a vibration in my steering wheel. Also a slight pull to the right. When I hit the brakes hard I thought I might have heard a dull groan but when I released the brakes the shake was gone. Now it is doing it again. I lifted the front end and shook the tires checking for the tie rod end and ball joints but everything felt tight.
Any Ideas???
I do see that the front sway bar bushings need to be replaced. Related??
Thanks
Doug
If you have any type of shaking or vibration going on when you press the brake pedal, you most likely have a warped front brake rotor. Get them machined, If they're not thick enough and have to be replaced, have the new rotor's machined also. Sounds silly but most are warped out of the box. get a good look at the brake pads too. While you're there, if you need them nows the time. Are you're tires cupped or chopped any at all? That could be some of you're growle noise. You hay be hearing some noise from you're brakes too............... Bob
Yes I feel a little bit of rotor warp but I have felt that for years when braking at slow speeds and light break pressure. No problems with tires. Brake pads are 2 years old but only 2,000 miles on them. The shake in the steering is much worse then what a rotor would cause and does it when i am NOT braking. Plus it comes and goes?
Yes I feel a little bit of rotor warp but I have felt that for years when braking at slow speeds and light break pressure. No problems with tires. Brake pads are 2 years old but only 2,000 miles on them. The shake in the steering is much worse then what a rotor would cause and does it when i am NOT braking. Plus it comes and goes?
A warped rotor can cause steering wheel wobble , do you get any pulsation on the brake pedal? The pulling you describe could be a caliper piston binding or corroded caliper slide rails, do the wheels get hot after a while even when not braking?
Do the wheels rotate smoothly when raised off the ground, you might have a wheel bearing problem.
Recently I had cured a gradually worsening steering wheel rattle, it was caused by bad REAR tires. I had all 4 wheels balanced but the problem remained. 2 new tires on the back solved the problem I'd had for several years!
I think I'd go for the obvious first get the wheels balanced & have tires checked for roundness. Then check the wheel bearing adjustment, no play should be felt when trying to rock the wheels in & out raised off the ground. There is a two stage proceedure to torque up the wheel bearings. A Haynes manual gives a good account of the proceedure. If you dont have one, we can help out here.
What you describe sounds like alignment issues. When you raise the front end, the expansion pressure from the coil spring puts strain on the ball joints, making it hard to detect play in the upper or lower joints. When the spring is compressed by normal loading forces, worn joints are freer to move about and affect alignment.
If you have not done so, try using a block of wood under the width of the lower control arm and jacking that unti the tire is just off the ground. In this configuration, there is little to no pressure on the upper ball joint and you should be able to feel movement in the upper joint while a helper rocks the tire at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions.
Hey Doug, if nothing else, get your wheel bearings checked ASAP. If they look okay, clean and repack with fresh grease.
I've seen Aerostars develop vibration problems, low groan noises on the front end that come and go. Then when you least expect it, a bearing fails completley, usually at low speed. Coming up on a dip in the curb as you enter or leave a driveway, ect. Then a sickening crack sound, which is usually followed by the brake pedal going completely to the floorboard.
Usually, a wheel with a failed wheel bearing, will have the tire leaning in at a bad angle.
It's time for the AAA Towtruck - van is not going anywhere.
I'm simply saying have the wheel bearings inspected for your own peace of mind. Whenever I hear symptoms as you described, a red flag pops up.
ED...It seems like the two times it has done this was in a curve with some hard pot holes and and after I turned into a Parking lot. Does this help or mayby point more towards the upper ball joints? How do I check the wheel bearings? The tires do not lean.
AEROCOLORADO... I did rock the wheels back and forth and up and down when they were off the ground. I didn't feel any play. Also on the interstate she drives in perfect line. It is only those two times did she pull. I am sure my alignment is good and the tires are less then a year old with low miles.
AEROMAN59...No pulsing on the break pedal and I have felt the wheels to see if they are hard. With the wheels off the ground the wheels spin rather easily (both sides equal) but I don't what to look for.
Thanks
Doug
I also do hear a snap sound every now and again when I am making a turn. I can not seem to make the sound when the radio is turned off. If this is the wheel bearing what would it sound like and how do I check it.
upper and lower control arm bushings
my bet, the lowers. the rt side seems to go first
braking causes loading on control arms
feeds lots of banging noise into the chassis and into pass. compartment
I have a 95 and it has had this trouble too, I found that both upper A arms had worn bushings right side was real bad,it would pop on turns or hitting a bump in the road.
AEROMAN 59...What is the two step procedure to torqu up the wheel bearings. When I replace the Upper control arm bushings I am going to inspect the wheel bearings. The two local stores only have the cheap brand in stock. The price difference isn't very much but is there really a difference????
To check wheel bearing play: grab the wheel with 2 hands (vehicle raised so the tire is off the ground) pull & push firmly in unison & note if any movement can be detected. Any movement & adjustment is needed. Rotate the wheel & notice what happens. Any noise (which is not coming from the pads) or rumbling/ lumpy sensation means the races are likely shot & need replacement.
After repacking with High temp grease & replacing the rear oil seal.
1) Tighten the hub nut to 17-25 FT lbs (while spinning the wheel).
2) Back off 1/2 turn ONLY.
3) Tighten the nut again to 10-15 IN lbs.
If the split pin does not line up with the slots in the hub nut, slightly Loosen until you can insert the split pin. If you dont have an In lb torque wrench borrow one, or in a pinch .... tighten the nut as tight as you can with your FINGERS.
Re-assemble & test drive.
HTH, Aeroman.
Last edited by Aeroman59; Sep 30, 2007 at 08:07 PM.
Reason: update