Injection Pump shut-off valve
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New User
Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Ft Worth, Texas
Injection Pump shut-off valve
hey guys, i think my shut-off valve on the injection pump is bad. i cant get the engine to start. its getting fuel to the injection pump but i think the valve is stuck closed. i disconnected the wire from the pump and tapped it on the connection with the ignition on and can hear it clicking. is there any way to check and see if its bad? like a ground test or something? also is it relatively easy to replace? i understand that the injection pumps are sensitive but i work in a shop so if i can do it at work during some down time than id rather do that if possible. the top of the injection pump looks like it comes off real easy, like it doesnt require removal of the pump from the engine itself. any help or advice would be helpful. thanks...
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,638
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From: Manitoba
If you have access to a good and friendly Ford dealer ask for TSB 94-5-11 publication date March 9, 1994 This TSB covers stalling at lights etc... but shows how to remove/replace the governor cover SAFELY.
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New User
Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Ft Worth, Texas
ell i removed the top of the injection pump cover and there are two solenoids inside. the fuel shut-off solenoid is still good, its the one that has two prongs that stick out of the top of it. i ground tested it with the ignition on and it clicked. the other one which is attached to where the fuel return line exits the pump doesnt seem to be working. is there another way to test it to see if its bad? plus who makes a rebuild kit for the DB-2 pumps and how much are they? i would like to try to do the rebuild myself if possible. if not im gonna take it to a shop and let them do it. the shop costs are the only thing that i fear about it... please help...
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 198
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From: Kansas
GhostRyder,
If you need parts for your pump, or want a good rebuilt one contact Tim at AccurateDiesel.com or call him at 231-598-1227. He's knowledgable, helpful, reasonably priced. I got a rebuilt pump for $215 a year ago and have absolutely no trouble out of it, or the truck. I also got my GP's and return line kit from him. I called him on a Friday afternoon, he got them out in Sat. mail and I received them (in Kansas) the following monday!!
If you need parts for your pump, or want a good rebuilt one contact Tim at AccurateDiesel.com or call him at 231-598-1227. He's knowledgable, helpful, reasonably priced. I got a rebuilt pump for $215 a year ago and have absolutely no trouble out of it, or the truck. I also got my GP's and return line kit from him. I called him on a Friday afternoon, he got them out in Sat. mail and I received them (in Kansas) the following monday!!
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,638
Likes: 1
From: Manitoba
The FSS can work great but the metering valve is supposed to release (spring loaded) when the FSS operates. If the metering valve does not open, no fuel will pass into the IP. If the timing advance solenoid does not open the IP return check valve or it is stuck closed then fuel will not leave the IP and cause overpressure in the IP causing a shutdown condition on start.
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New User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 19
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From: Ft Worth, Texas
ok, both solenoids check out ok so far. fuel is going into the IP and coming back through the IP return line. so fuel is getting to the injectors, but it still wont start. it sounds like its trying and it will almost catch and then taper off. its almost like there isnt quite enough fuel pressure in the lines. what would cause the IP to lose pressure like that? or is it just the final woes of a dead IP that needs to be replaced?
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