Power Window Problem
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Power Window Problem
In my '93 F-150 the driver side power window has stopped working. At first, the window just wouldn't roll back up. After a few weeks it won't even roll down without help. I can hear the motor in the door turning, but the darn window just sits there. I know I'm going to have to rip the door panel off to fix this problem, but what exactly should I be looking for? Thanks!
Ron
Ron
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From: Eastern WA
Originally Posted by amsuco
........................... but what exactly should I be looking for? Thanks!
Ron
Ron
Here's what the regulator on my 94 Ranger looked like when I had the problem:
Last edited by CowboyBilly9Mile; May 8, 2005 at 05:03 PM.
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Moved to proper forum.
The plastic gears inside the regulator gear housing may be broken. If they are you can dump out the broken pieces and put 3 each 3/8" or 10MM ball bearings inside the housing.
To remove the regulator assy you will need to drill out the rivets then use screws and nuts to fasten it back in.
All of the gears go bad and have to be replaced around 10 years or 100,000 miles. The drivers door always goes first. The passenger door window will go next.
The plastic gears inside the regulator gear housing may be broken. If they are you can dump out the broken pieces and put 3 each 3/8" or 10MM ball bearings inside the housing.
To remove the regulator assy you will need to drill out the rivets then use screws and nuts to fasten it back in.
All of the gears go bad and have to be replaced around 10 years or 100,000 miles. The drivers door always goes first. The passenger door window will go next.
Last edited by Torque1st; May 8, 2005 at 08:56 PM.
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From: Minneapolis
My pass. window does the same thing....you can hear it working but no movement.
I have to keep a small piece of cardboard in-between the glass and the plastic window trim to keep it from falling down anywhere from a crack to about 4 inches.
Rory
I have to keep a small piece of cardboard in-between the glass and the plastic window trim to keep it from falling down anywhere from a crack to about 4 inches.
Rory
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Hello, new member here. I've had my 94 F150 since it was new but now it's getting up there and saw this post. you stated
"The plastic gears inside the regulator gear housing may be broken. If they are you can dump out the broken pieces and put 3 each 3/8" or 10MM ball bearings inside the housing."
My window has the symptoms as in the original post, the ball bearing thing has me confused. I understand the broken teeth on the gears, where do the ball bearings come in
"The plastic gears inside the regulator gear housing may be broken. If they are you can dump out the broken pieces and put 3 each 3/8" or 10MM ball bearings inside the housing."
My window has the symptoms as in the original post, the ball bearing thing has me confused. I understand the broken teeth on the gears, where do the ball bearings come in
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Cargo Master
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Sometimes the glass and the metal channel at the bottom become seperated.
Either way, you will have to open up the door panel to take a look see.
If it is the channel that separated, I have used silicone (liberal amounts) to reattach to glass and let sit for several days with no window usage until silicone cure is complete.
Either way, you will have to open up the door panel to take a look see.
If it is the channel that separated, I have used silicone (liberal amounts) to reattach to glass and let sit for several days with no window usage until silicone cure is complete.
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My window motor was running but the window wouldn't go up or down. As stated above, I removed the window regulator, unbolted the motor from the regulator, removed the circlip on the gear shaft and drilled out the pin that held the cover on after the motor mount bolts were removed and swapped out the nylon "bearings" that are obtained at auto store "HELP" isle for about $2.50. The door panel is held on with a couple of screws then lift up and out to remove the various plastic trim keepers on the back side of the panel. Everything bolts back together with 1/2" long 1/4*20 bolts and nuts (you'll need 4 to replace the rivets you drilled out to remove the voltage regulator, the only ones you see once you remove the door panel) Make sure you use a center tap to punch out the center pin of the rivet as this is very tough to drill through, one good wack with a hammer removes the center pin then just drill the rivet head off. The process is VERY simple, with less than average mechanical skills. Just be patient with the drilling and pulling off of the door panel and you won't do any damage.
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BULLSEYE!!
Torque1st hit the nail on the head with this repair (both windows in my case). My local parts dealer couldn't provide the ball bearings without buying and dismantling a complete bearing. My solution was to use 3 pieces of 3/8" rod.
Safety tip... use a short norrow piece of wood to prop up the glass. There's a 1" hole at the top of the inner door skin. Push the wood through the hole and on top of the door handle bolt, this will hold the window.
PS. Those Ford window designers should have their thumb nails pulled out for creating such a lame design....thanks for the tip Torque1st!
Torque1st hit the nail on the head with this repair (both windows in my case). My local parts dealer couldn't provide the ball bearings without buying and dismantling a complete bearing. My solution was to use 3 pieces of 3/8" rod.
Safety tip... use a short norrow piece of wood to prop up the glass. There's a 1" hole at the top of the inner door skin. Push the wood through the hole and on top of the door handle bolt, this will hold the window.
PS. Those Ford window designers should have their thumb nails pulled out for creating such a lame design....thanks for the tip Torque1st!
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