When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Anyone have this problem before? I can hear the motor but just today the window won't go up. I pushed it up by hand while holding the up botton and it felt like was trying to grap or something and luckily it's up. I guess im gonna have to take the entire door panel off and inspect it. Anyone have this happen and know what exactly is the problem?
OK.. that was my attempt at humor. Your problem is very common but it's neither hard or expensive to fix.
Here are the parts you need.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Ford-Lincoln-and-Mercury-Power-Window-Motor-Gear-Delrin-Acetal-Bushing-Kit-/400938063277?hash=item5d59c555ad&vxp=mtr
And here is what is wrong... https://video.search.yahoo.com/video...t=mozilla&tt=b
Anyone have this problem before? I can hear the motor but just today the window won't go up. I pushed it up by hand while holding the up botton and it felt like was trying to grap or something and luckily it's up. I guess im gonna have to take the entire door panel off and inspect it. Anyone have this happen and know what exactly is the problem?
Start with window up and lock **** off. Remove the screws from the door panel. Lift up on panel and pull door handle up slightly then side panel forward and off. Disconnect electrical. Find something to hold window up; I used a piece of threaded rod w/ a u shaped piece attached to the end. Brace under bottom of window frame. Look for 2 dimples at motor mount, Drill out w/#20 drill then ½” drill to make for much easier removal of bolts. Remove motor and gearbox as one piece with 8mm socket. Cap over gear box has 2 little bent tabs. Straighten them out; remove 3 screws then the cover. You will find the 3 bushings in pieces remove snap ring from center shaft and slide up ring gear and inspect for damage on gears. If gear is good only replace bushing, otherwise replace gear too. Clean all parts good dry fit new parts. Bushing may need to be filed a little on one side. If too tight will create stresses and cause outer gear to crack. (If so, increase the radius on the outside and mark w/ pen so assembly is all the same). They are .500 I cut mine to .480 dia. And .470 on height. Grease motor gear and all parts and reverse procedure for assembly. Don’t forget to replace the snap ring on the shaft. Grease track under window and gear to door and check that the door drains are clear while you are in there. I used red grease on gears and NAPA “Slid-Glide silicone in the felt tracks 3 shots spread w/ q-tip. Other side is most likely bad too, so you may want to repair that side too while you are in there. – Good luck.
On my truck the switch is bad on the 'going up' side for the passenger window.. Something else it could be. Watch the volt meter in the dash while you work the switch.
On my truck the switch is bad on the 'going up' side for the passenger window.. Something else it could be. Watch the volt meter in the dash while you work the switch.
Now that I think about it the meter jumps around when I use the windows (even when it was working) but I can't remember if one or both causes it to do that. What would I be looking for? I went ahead and orders the plastic bushing last night
EDIT: Just thought of something too. I wonder if it would work if I tried it from the passenger side? I only tried hitting the button for the passenger window from the drivers side. Then that would indicate a bad switch for sure I would think wouldn't it? In other words isn't there two switches for the passenger side window (one on the drivers side button and one on the passenger side button? I guess I need to just try that first, then get it open and look at the bushings
Well it all works again tonight lol. I know something is going out though bc now when it rolls up and hits the top it kind of starts slipping or something but it stays all the way up. I think. Btw I will have extra bushings if anybody needs them. I only have 2 windows and will have enough for 4 windows. If someone needs them they are yours
Pep Boys(and most auto parts places) carries the 3 pucks to repair each motor, in the HELP! brand... They run about $8 a set: you need two. Get some graphite grease as well. REAL easy job to fix...
Well it all works again tonight lol. I know something is going out though bc now when it rolls up and hits the top it kind of starts slipping or something but it stays all the way up. I think. Btw I will have extra bushings if anybody needs them. I only have 2 windows and will have enough for 4 windows. If someone needs them they are yours
If it is slipping the pucks are not correct- it will fail again: I just went through this with home made pucks...
Your Bushings are broken up into chips. The window will work until the broken up chips get too small to grip. Change them now before you need a gear too and maybe even a motor.
Thats exactly what it was. Those bushings were basically dust. I fixed it today. Wow what,a pain in the donkey. Took me quite a while to get it all sorted out but u know what I got it fixed
Btw u dont have to take the handle off and it helps if u have a real strong drill bc u will need to drill up to 1/2 in holes.
The yellow specks are what was left of what the white bushings were in 1993 lol
Thats exactly what it was. Those bushings were basically dust. I fixed it today. Wow what,a pain in the donkey. Took me quite a while to get it all sorted out but u know what I got it fixed
Btw u dont have to take the handle off and it helps if u have a real strong drill bc u will need to drill up to 1/2 in holes.
The yellow specks are what was left of what the white bushings were in 1993 lol
I got it down to a ten minute job- I found the EASIEST way to remove that motor, once the holes are drilled for the two screws, is to remove the speaker, and reach through the hole, and grab the motor while removing the screws! (Disconnect the power cable first) Gives you real good control, and comes right out without any fuss at all... Hardest part of the whole thing is removing & reinstalling the door panel...
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.