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water pump recomandation.

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Old May 4, 2005 | 12:02 PM
  #1  
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From: Phoenix Az, by way of Fre
water pump recomandation.

Hi all.
I've got a leak where the pump bolts to the block on the passenger side.
I figure, if I'm going to the trouble of pulling the ancient pump (no idea how old it is, but everything else on the truck has failed due to wearing out, so, I assume this thing is on it's last legs as well) to seal the leak, I may as well grab a new pump while I'm at it.

I searched ,and read Gtex is not sold on the E-brock from a sitting in traffic standpoint. Since my truck is a daily driver, city miles, in hot Phoenix, I want something that is going to operate efficiently at lower rpms. I recently installed a 'new' 4 core rad and 180* thermo stat.

So, who makes a good pump?
 
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Old May 4, 2005 | 12:07 PM
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i have been happy with the rebuilt one i bought at kragen it was like 17.00 with a core return it idles in traffic in hot days no problem the stock pump is more than enough for these.
 
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Old May 4, 2005 | 01:24 PM
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Do you need a new water pump? Theres not much to wear out on them except for the bearings which can get loose, you may just want to put a new gasket on with some RTV an run it. An aftermarket water pump is totally unessary unless youve got a HIGHLY modified drag racer, even pumped up street FE's do fine with a stock water pump. I would look into getting an eletrick fan or a larger diameter belt driven alumium fan from summit. Also get a fan shourd if you dont have one.
btw, what sort of operating temp does it run when it traffic? Any mods?
 
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Old May 4, 2005 | 01:51 PM
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Is the leak coming from around the bolt, or is it the gasket itself leaking? If it's just the bolt, drain the system, remove the bolt, put RTV on it, and it'll go away.

The bolt hole in the block is a "through" hole and the bolt needs sealant on it.
 
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Old May 4, 2005 | 02:11 PM
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Yup, put some sealant on bolt and re-install.
If you need a pump, like mentioned, go with stocker rebuilt unit. No sense in the high buck aftermarket stuff for a daily driver. It will eat up a bearing just as fast as a stock one would. Between bearing and seal that is most that can go wrong with them anyway.

If you have no overheating problems now, then don't worry about it.
 
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Old May 4, 2005 | 03:20 PM
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mod's... it's a very mild build... stock bottom end balanced/blueprinted, stock heads ported, little 268 cam, 500cfm 2bbl... basically a 'good' stocker.
no overheating problems since the new rad went in.
honestly do not know what it runs at, other than right in the center of the stock guage.

the leak is between the pump and the block, so, not sure if it's gasket failure, or bolt failure.
when I pull it apart, I'll check for play in the pump, if none, I'll reinstall it and put rtv on all mate'n surfaces... otherwise I'll grab an autozone special.

Thanks guys.
 
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Old May 4, 2005 | 04:17 PM
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I would try the RTV on bolt idea first. No sense it ruining a good seal around the water pump, if it's just the bolt.
 
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Old May 4, 2005 | 04:53 PM
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From: Phoenix Az, by way of Fre
that certianly works for me.
i'll try it.
 
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Old May 4, 2005 | 11:20 PM
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Wel, I recenty realized that I had one head gasket in backwards. So that may have contributed to any cooling problems I was seeing.

Otherwise, the edelbrock pump has worked fine. It's been on and of a few times, and always works and seals up easily. It also looks nice if you can keep it clean...
 
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Old May 4, 2005 | 11:30 PM
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If it was me, I'd go ahead and replace it. Like you said, it's old, and could let go any time. Your truck depends on it for cooling. You wouldn't want to be stranded? Exactly. Just go get the stock rebuilt one, they're cheap. I got mine at Napa when I built my 390. The old one off the 360 still worked, but why chance it?
 
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Old May 5, 2005 | 05:23 AM
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Yep I agree with Rusty, Water pumps and Oil pumps are good cheap Insurance!!!

Just replace it!! JMHO....

Russ
 
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Old May 5, 2005 | 04:25 PM
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hmmmmm...
if it were leaking out the bolt, wouldn't I see coolant comming out by the bolt head rather than at the mating surface between the pump and the block?

I like the idea of just rtv'n a bolt back in, but, the way my luck runs, the simple fix's are never the real fix's.

I'll likely try the rtv'd bolt trick, and if that does not cure it, I'll get a new/rebuilt pump.
 
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Old May 5, 2005 | 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by cleanLX
hmmmmm...
if it were leaking out the bolt, wouldn't I see coolant comming out by the bolt head rather than at the mating surface between the pump and the block?

I like the idea of just rtv'n a bolt back in, but, the way my luck runs, the simple fix's are never the real fix's.

I'll likely try the rtv'd bolt trick, and if that does not cure it, I'll get a new/rebuilt pump.
Um, yeah, it would come out around the bolt head, unless you're lucky enough to have the bolt hole leaking out past the gasket... Which is probably highly unlikely...

If you're going to take off the water pump, replace it while you're in there...
 
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Old May 23, 2005 | 11:16 AM
  #14  
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From: Phoenix Az, by way of Fre
Holy Crap!
What a job that was.
104*F here on friday (no breeze) which I took off work to change out the pump.
My ol' truck has been farm engineered, so, all the brackets on the front of the engine are "custom" made. None fit proper, so, all brackets have multiple stacked washers at the bolt locations to get things shim'd out. Then, every accessory has multiple washers to get them shim'd out.
Alt., power steering, and a/c all had to come apart to get the brackets off. All the brackets intertwine and share bolts.
I decided to get my radiator in a little more securly (2 bolts were holding it, one was stripped) and to do so I had to loosen up a radiator in front of the radiator... I think it's for the a/c. So, with the rad sitting on a floor jack, held in place by the upper hose, I got in behind it, unbolted the other rad., and finally, by myself, got everything lined up. cinched together, and bolts started, and eventually snugged up.
Got the water pump in fine.
Blue RTV around the water ports, and tape thread seal on all the bolts.
The impellor shaft on the old pump had a 'bit' of play to it.
Holding brackets and accessories in place with one hand and oranizing washer/shimms and starting bolts (sometimes duct tape'n them in place temporarily) with the other hand became an excercise in inventing new curse words.
In the end, it all went together, and works well... even tho it took a total of 7 hours... which included some running around to find new hoses, wire brush and FL-1A... oh ya, did the oil while I was a mess... That Fram Sure Drain kit is nice.

I cannot believe how quiet the new pump is.
Underhood whirring noise is greatly reduced. Old pump must have been on her last legs... I 'think' the pump that came off was the original... as it had Ford stamped on it.
 
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Old May 23, 2005 | 05:33 PM
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Oh man!! well I am glad to hear you took the suggestion to replace the Damn thing..Now ya dont have to worry about it for another 100,000 miles!! lol...

Sounds Like ya went thru hell...but the main thing is the motor's happy and your happy...So it was worth it!!

Glad to hear ya got ur done!!!

Russ
 
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