Hello all you nice people. I have a '95 with a 4 liter that has a bad compressor or clutch. It has seized up and popped the belt.

My question is; Is there a way to disable the compressor, put a new belt on and drive it for a few days until the new one arrives?

 

If it popped the belt, my guess is that the bearing has seized on the pulley. You can't disable that. To run without the compressor, I guess you can put in a shorter belt, but I don't know the routing for it. Besides, you'll be paying for a new shorter belt you never use again.

Just wait for the compressor.

 

Copper,

Can we to prevent the seizing?
Thank you
Fordboy49

 

Hi Fordboy49:

The pulley rides on a bearing by itself. When the clutch is engaged by the coil, then we are riding on the internal bearing of the compressor. None of them are routinely seviceable, so if they fail then they fail. There is really not much we can do about it. Once consolation, however, they ususally make such loud noises bofere they fail, we normally do have plenty of warning.

The bearing on the pulley can be changed by pulling the clutch and the pulley off the compressor without discharging the system. The compressor bearing, on the other hand, can only be changed if we disassemble the compressor. If it comes to that, a new or rebuilt compressor is a better deal.

Regards

 

Are you sure it's the a/c compressor pulley that has siezed and not the idler/tensioner pulley? Just a thought.

Ron

 

It's the compressor or clutch. Siezed up tight. The new one is on order. I bought a remanufactured one off ebay. Ckeap as heck. Hope it's good.

 

Thanks for the knowledge guys. I'll most likely be back when the compressor comes in. My wife will have to drive my '88 B2 until then. I don't know why she hates that thing so much. I love that little sucker!

 

If you are going to install the compressor yourself you need to drain the oil into a clean measuring cup from the old compresor. Check for fine sand or beads in the oil, if they are in there, the dryer in the accumilater failed. The whole system will have to be professionally flushed. If none, properly dispose of the oil noting how much was in the old compressor. Clean and dry the cup in the oven on low temp. Pour the oil from the new compressor into the cup, return the same amount of new oil to the new compressor. I would recommend replacing the accumilator and installing a Ford accessory drier in the liqiud line. Recovery, leak testing, evacuation, and recharging I'd leave to a pro.

 

There's no drain plug on the compressor. How do I know how much oil is in it and where do I put the oil in the new compressor? They sent oil along with it vut I'm confused as to what I do with it.

 

If the compressor is siezed, its likely due to lack of oil. On these Ford stems there is no way to tell, short of pulling the compressor apart and looking inside, which is what you need to do with the old one. I'll bet you find nary a drop - been there already. If you find nothing in the old compressor there is not enough in the rest of the system to worry about - just consider it completely empty. If memory serves, these systems require 10oz of oil. Add half to the new compressor and turn it over by hand several time to distribute and lubricate the internal vanes. Shoot the other half down the pressure line to the condenser. When you recharge the system, the liquid r12 or r134a picks up the oil and distributes it throughout the rest of the system. If you dump all 10oz into the compressor you risk creating a hydraulic lock and ruining your brand new compressor.

That said, unless you have fixed your leaks you will be repeating this process often. Its a PITA, but now would be a good time to replace all of the system o-rings or at the very least those that look suspicious - coated with oil. Personally, with as few miles a you have this newer van, I would expect the major components - accumulator, condensor, presssure lines, etc to all be in good condition and would not replace them at this time. I've done several conversions changing everything out and others changing nothing but the refrigerant and both work equally well.

 

Is there a worse vehicle to work on that a Aerostar? Replace PS pump, the compressor, and the serpentine belt and it took me about half the day. But....I most likely saved a pile of cash. Lord knows what a garage would have charged for that. Any have any idea...roughly? Might make me feel a little better.


OH, Thanks for all the help!

 

You pour it out the suction opening of the compressor Also pour it back into the suction opening with the compressor held in as close to possible in its mounting position. Compressor sump should be big enough to hold all the systems oil charge with no problem. Failing compressors generally leave lots of oil in the system as the velocity of the refrigerant drops and is insuffient to bring the oil back to the compressor. Plus the warn parts let oil past the seals and more oil ends up being pumped out of the compressor. Think of how much oil a worn engine burns and its the same principle, only thrown into the sealed system. The other thing, and this takes a pro, is to Rx-11 "TM" flush the the system followed by a nitrogen purge, replace accumilator and add a full charge of oil.
The hardest compressor I ever changed was in a Saab, bosses car, engine had to be partially pulled. Second was an 86 Taurus, which I did twice, both times had to replace power steering pump and hoses in the following weeks.

 

I'd flush the system as Aftermidnite said, but I'd also replace the orifice tube. If the compressor failed, I'm almost certain that the orifice tube is pretty fouled up. It's only a few bucks and pretty easy to change.