O. T. Compressor question
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 934
Likes: 2
From: Sterling, Virginia
O. T. Compressor question
OK, this may be a stupid question, but is there any way of connecting a 30 gallon compressor to an extra compressor tank for more volume ? I have a 20 gallon one now and it can't keep up with my tools, so I'm in the market for another one. The 30 gallon has a motor w/belt and oiling compressor. I know that a 60 gallon compressor would solve my problems, but they are large and suck lots of juice. Then this thought came to me....what if I could buy a new 30 gallon and use the old 20 gallon for extra capacity. Does this make any sense or is it something really stupid ?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 4,920
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From: Bothell & Silverdale, WA
Most likely the cut-in and cut-out pressures are different between the two compressor, so they would have to be set up as lead/lag. That said, consider the amperage draw (kWh) of the two small compressors running at full load vs. the single large one. I think you will find the economics favor the larger compressor that runs on 220 vac vs. the two smaller ones that run on 110 vac.
FTE Legend
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 54,004
Likes: 2,402
From: NY and VA
It would help. If you are going to do some media blasting , you would be better off with a 2 stage compressor. I was in the same situation but, ended up getting a 5HP CH compressor with a 60 gallon tank. Which is really not that great for sand blasting but, works ok for other tool use.
I have seen 50-60 gal air tanks on craigslist. But, stay away from those "converted water tanks"
I have seen 50-60 gal air tanks on craigslist. But, stay away from those "converted water tanks"
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 934
Likes: 2
From: Sterling, Virginia
Most likely the cut-in and cut-out pressures are different between the two compressor, so they would have to be set up as lead/lag. That said, consider the amperage draw (kWh) of the two small compressors running at full load vs. the single large one. I think you will find the economics favor the larger compressor that runs on 220 vac vs. the two smaller ones that run on 110 vac.
I agree completely about 220 volt. I just thought it might be a cheap way around buying a 60 gal. I did say it was a stupid question. Thanks for confirming it is.
GLR, I'm going have to go with a lower HP and AMP draw. I saw one with a 3.7 HP 15 AMP. which I hope won't blow any of the breakers in the shop !!
Thanks guys for the replies.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,580
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From: in a barn
I use an 80 gallon two stage compressor for blasting, no issues at all. I only run at around 80psi as measured on the wall regulator, so pressure at the nozzle is less, and it works great. Just stating that because you dont need to run 100psi at the nozzle and the lower pressures will help with recovery.
That said a 30 gallon is too small. A friend of mine plumbed up 6 old gas cylinders to his compressor outlet, it added needed volume but in the end it made more sense to just get a larger compressor.
Get yourself a two stage compressor with at least a 60 gallon tank and you will be good to go, I bought mine used and hardly used on craigslist for about half the cost of new.
That said a 30 gallon is too small. A friend of mine plumbed up 6 old gas cylinders to his compressor outlet, it added needed volume but in the end it made more sense to just get a larger compressor.
Get yourself a two stage compressor with at least a 60 gallon tank and you will be good to go, I bought mine used and hardly used on craigslist for about half the cost of new.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,337
Likes: 165
From: Harpswell Maine
You certainly can tie the two tanks together, however as Dave indicated if you want to sandblast you will want at least a 5 hp 2 stage. I bought a 7 1/2 hp 2 stage IR about 10 years ago. I previously used a Model A engine equipped with a Gordon Smith head which fires on #1 & 4 and compresses on #2 and 3 for sandblasting.
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
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From: Durham NC
You are not going to do much air tool work with a 110V compressor no matter what (mostly bogus) specs the manufacturer puts on it or how many tanks you hook up to it. Cheap air tools just compound the problem, they waste a lot of air cooling a overloaded low quality air motor eating up 2 or more X the air of a high quality tool. Stay away from the off brand compressors and 110V units you're just wasting money. There is no free lunch in the air game.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
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From: Iowa
What you are describing will give you a noticeable advantage for a very short time. Fine for impact wrenches and such. Not fine for media blasting, DA sanders etc. If you need full power for 30 seconds it would help and nothing more. If you have a need for more than that it just takes a larger compressor and the wiring to support it. I have a small 220V compressor and really need to upgrade.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Here's the facts: AMPS draw (off outlet circuit) X Voltage = Max Watts: 20 A Heavy duty circuit x 110V = 2200 W No breaker or wiring will withstand that much current for very long, so continuous use on a 20A, 110V circuit with no other load is typically limited to 1500 W max (microwave oven, portable electric heater, table saw, etc).
! HP = 746W. So any electric motor running continuously is not able to produce even a full 2 HP without tripping the breaker after a few minutes, can't cheat the physics. They lie about the compressor output! using free air spec (based on piston displacement at the unrestricted outlet without being hooked to anything: tank, regulator, hose etc. or any operating loss). Diaphragm compressors are even worse!
Any 110V compressors are best suited for inflating bicycle tires, blowing up pool toys, etc. Sorry, just the truth.
! HP = 746W. So any electric motor running continuously is not able to produce even a full 2 HP without tripping the breaker after a few minutes, can't cheat the physics. They lie about the compressor output! using free air spec (based on piston displacement at the unrestricted outlet without being hooked to anything: tank, regulator, hose etc. or any operating loss). Diaphragm compressors are even worse!
Any 110V compressors are best suited for inflating bicycle tires, blowing up pool toys, etc. Sorry, just the truth.
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 934
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From: Sterling, Virginia
Ax, thanks for the info as always there with the facts. Not looking for a free lunch, just weighing my options.
The garage was wired by the PO. I know I need more "copper" going from the house to the garage (detached two car). The problem is, the wire runs under a concrete driveway. So I can't dig it up and replace with a lower gauge. So I can't get anything that will pull more amps than what I have now. My welder is 220 and has never tripped the breaker. Of course that's not continuous use. I have a 220 exhaust system too. I have to get up in the attic to check it's draw and Hp. I can't run two 220 units at the same time or lights out !!
Thanks for all the advice, I'll go with a 220 unit with not too high an amp draw.
FTE Legend
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 54,004
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From: NY and VA
Odds are you won't be running the welder and comp. at the same time. When the lights go out, where is the breaker and what size? Would you be lucky that the house to garage is in conduit all the way? So you could snake a diff gauge wire? If the conduit is large enough. I ran 100amp (220v) to the garage from the house in 2" conduit all the way. If I am using all my corded tools, welder and air comp at the same time it still won't draw 100 amps.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
With my detached garage, I had the power company supply it with it's own 220 service, meter. I was planning for enough capacity for welder, compressor, lift and AC, plenty of outlets and lights. I also had 3 2" empty conduits run from the house under the driveway and up thru the slab for future use: water, phone, internet, whatever else may come along.