Stuck Ignition
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New User
Joined: Mar 2005
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Stuck Ignition
I have a 2001 F-150 XLT V-8, I drove my truck twice yesterday and when I was about to head to town yesterday I put the key in and nothing. I cannot turn the ignition. I tried to move the steering wheel back and forth, tried pushing on the brake, tried cleaning the key and ignition, tried everything I can thing of. However my key will not turn the ignition, and yes I know it is the right key. Never ever had this problem before but the dang key just will not turn the ignition in any direction. PLEASE HELP.
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2004
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I have a '98 f-150 and that has happened to me before. I was told that all you had to to do was turn the steering wheel, but even my steering wheel was stiff and wouldnt turn. but i kept trying and soon enough i was able to turn my steering wheel and let me turn my iginition.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 414
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From: Southwestern Pa.
If you can turn the steering wheel and the lock cylinder still does not turn, chances are it is toast. Try turning it hard in both directions first tho.
http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0a/9e/94/0900823d800a9e94.jsp
These are instructions for removing it with out the benfit of a key for trucks up to 96. I would recommend checking a manual for your year. Wouldn't want an airbag in the face.
Did one in an old mustang by drilling out the tumbler starting with a small bit and going progressivewly larger. again no air bag!
Good luck and let us know
http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0a/9e/94/0900823d800a9e94.jsp
These are instructions for removing it with out the benfit of a key for trucks up to 96. I would recommend checking a manual for your year. Wouldn't want an airbag in the face.
Did one in an old mustang by drilling out the tumbler starting with a small bit and going progressivewly larger. again no air bag!
Good luck and let us know
New User
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: LA Cal
99 Ford Expd EB 77K. Same problem. From one moment to another the ignition did NOT work.
Turned Key all you hear is relays clicking but thats it. Found 15A ignition fuse under dash blown. Replaced tried ignition again & fuse blew again. Checked all ground OK. Checked Starter OK. Battery OK. The only way to start the car is by bridging the starter solenoid underneith the car with a pair of pliers.
This is dangerous do not recomend anyone doing it unless you realy know what your doing. Not good for your car either. Anyone please help?
Turned Key all you hear is relays clicking but thats it. Found 15A ignition fuse under dash blown. Replaced tried ignition again & fuse blew again. Checked all ground OK. Checked Starter OK. Battery OK. The only way to start the car is by bridging the starter solenoid underneith the car with a pair of pliers.
This is dangerous do not recomend anyone doing it unless you realy know what your doing. Not good for your car either. Anyone please help?
Last edited by IB Tim; Oct 24, 2005 at 08:24 AM.
New User
Joined: May 2005
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From: LA Cal
No alarm system. Interior fusebox. I bleive it is 21 or 22. It is listed as ignition in the owners manual. If you have a solution please let me know. My truck is at the mechanic & I can avoid repair charges he wont look at it until tuesday. Thanks.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,595
Likes: 52
From: Lawton, Oklahoma
Looks like the DTR sensor on the transmission circuit. This is often caused in this vehicle by a harness on the passenger side rear of engine compartment that has fallen down onto the exhaust manifold and burned through and the wire is shorting on the manifold or egr tube.
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New User
Joined: May 2005
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From: LA Cal
You are 100% right on the button. It cost me $120.00 for this info & a temp fix from the mechanic. The wire harness is hidden in between the tranny & manifold. Very narrow space very hard to see. An ignition wire on the harness burned & was causing the short. I wish I had gone to this forum before I took it to the mechanic could have saved $120. I became desperate. The mechanic suggest harness be replaced. $800 to $1000. Dealer may be responsible since they replaced the tranny on warranty 5/2004. The wire harness was not fastened on the tranny. Mechanic said other wires in the harness could have been damaged but didnt. Any suggestions?
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,595
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From: Lawton, Oklahoma
Yeah, he is out of his mind. Ive repaired that little burn for a couple hours labor many times. No more than 3. Looks like you found a parts replacer. 
Hell he didnt even have to search for the problem.
Hell he didnt even have to search for the problem.
New User
Joined: May 2005
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From: LA Cal
Originally Posted by HomerWinzlow
Yeah, he is out of his mind. Ive repaired that little burn for a couple hours labor many times. No more than 3. Looks like you found a parts replacer. Hell he didnt even have to search for the problem.
Hell he didnt even have to search for the problem.HomerWinzlow. I am humbly in need of your advise. What would you sugest. The Mechanic said he would complete the repair for $200 more. Currently all he did was push the harness away from the manifold for $120.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,595
Likes: 52
From: Lawton, Oklahoma
What is the Labor Rate at your local dealer? Our rate is 65.00 per hour. Some areas are a lot more than SW Oklahoma. So 200 may be reasonable or outrageous. If its a lot less than a dealer will fix it then you have to decide if he has been reasonable or you would rather trust the dealer.
The repair often only requires removing the inner fender well on the RH side and getting enough slack to splice the wires with new wire and rewrap. On rare occasion you may have to disconnect from transmission and feed out the harness far enough to repair it. That is considerably more time intensive. I cant see the damage so I dont know how far he needs to go, but I see absolutely no reason to replace the harness under normal circumstances.
The repair often only requires removing the inner fender well on the RH side and getting enough slack to splice the wires with new wire and rewrap. On rare occasion you may have to disconnect from transmission and feed out the harness far enough to repair it. That is considerably more time intensive. I cant see the damage so I dont know how far he needs to go, but I see absolutely no reason to replace the harness under normal circumstances.
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