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I was going to add to this thread that 66ford400 started. But thought it be better for future use to start another. Here is my gallery that has 3 pics of the flip up to this point. (4/20/05) I should finish up this weekend. Just waiting for my king pin set to come in.
(the city made me take it off the jack stands, so I had to make make-shift k/p's to lower it)
As to not make it to confusing. I will reply to this post with what I have done so far.
OK,
I got a local yard to take off (2) pivot brackets off same year truck, $25.
I took down the front end. Dropping the front springs first. Then yanking the I-beams out.
Keep track of which I-beam came from which side. (the caster will be opposite if you switch them after the flip.)
Take the kingpins out.
The spindles need the be swapped left to right and right to left.
Install new kingpins.
Take out original pivot bracket rivots and remove brackets.
Install pivot brackets into new locations. (opposite the originals)
Install pivot side of I-beam.
Install spring and etc.
You will have to get an adjustable drag link. Because the spindles are now upside down. The tie-rod end goes in from the bottom. The passanger side will not flip on the original drag link.
I bought the new adjustable drag link for Fabtech.
Hook it all up.
Adjust the toe good enough to run it up to a capable alignment shop, and your done.
I'll try to answer any question that come by. I would like to keep all conversation about this here and not by e-mail.
have you taken it to the alignment shop yet? any adjustment to shock or spring length or anything like that? one last ?-what part # for the adj drag link from fabtech?
I had some fires to put out with my company this weekend so I did not have time to install the king pins.
As for the alignment: I have not gotten it to an alignment shop yet.
The camber doesn't appear to be out at all. I'm sure it is, but it doesn't look as bad as one would of thought.
The front springs and shock are original height with no mods. Mainly because there connections or mounting points aren't moved at all. You're just flipping the I-beam.
The only problem I have noticed is the stoppers are facing forward now. A tap and 5/8" bolt should take care of that.
The part # I don't know. Just give John or someone up there a call and they will help you.
To me it is worth it. I'm saving money in one area where I can spend it in another. It has the high stance of a 4x4. It may not be a 4x4 but as long as I know it's not and don't take it to places a 4x2 can't go, I'll be OK. I'll be willing to bet that there will be heads turning with the first thing on their mind is that it is a 4x4. (You who condemn the whole 4x2 want a be look, don't let me catch you looking)
One question... Why did the spindles need to be swapped? Don't they stay on the same side? In other words, does the spindle that was originally on the right side end up back on the right side? I can see they need to be removed and reinstalled. -Confused...
I thought about doing this before I decided to just use a GMC independent suspension under mine.
Eric,
If you left the spindles on after the flip one of two things happen.
1) If you just flip the beam the spindle now faces the front.
a) If you flip the spindle back towards the rear (keeping them on the same side); the eye-hole for the tie-rod sit to low so that the drag¢er link will not slide through the slot in the radius arms.
2) If you flip the beams; then spin them. Although the spindles now work; the caster in the beam is now directly opposite.<not that this way wouldn't work. It just means one more adjustment for the alignment guys. And being that hopefully the K/P's are being replaced; why add this problem.>
Geometrically speaking( ), when the I-beams are flipped:
camber - should be directly opposite (mine appears ok for now).
caster - stays the same.
spindles - must be swapped. (to correct the links sliding through the radius arms. although the tie-rods now connect through the bottom, instead of the top)
pivot brackets - must be reinstalled adjacent from original mounting position. (as the beams contour is in the opposite position)
I thought about doing this before I decided to just use a GMC independent suspension under mine.
I am glad to hear you say this. I know I questioned you about you're setup a couple years ago. It would be interesting to see a-frames under a late model ford. Oh... if I only had the time and money.
hey racerwad,
I forgot to get the length of the rear shocks. Truly, I think it would depend on how much taller one would want the rear to sit. Find a shock company and tell them how long they need to be. I will now after this weekend anyway. I really need to get my springs re-arced first. Who knows?.
The time frame has been due to me mergeing my plumbing company with another. I now have a managers position, which puts me in the 9-5 bracket. I also am doing sidework for those customers that didn't won't to have another company working for them. ie: sidejobs.
I haven't touched the truck since the begining of March. I have actually only spent about 4 total hours on this project so far. Hopefully I will slow down enough, to get some time to finish.
As far as why, it simply looks cool.
What are you gonna do about the bearings? Normally they're on the bottom and support the weight on the axles while allowing the spindles to turn left and right. Looks like now they will be on top and won't be doing anything unless I'm missing something.
BB, once the kingpin is out it doesn't matter wether the spindle is upside down or right side up; as long as the bearing is placed on the bottom when the kingpin is reinstalled.