I got a Lincoln Stick welder for christmas last year. Now I have welded before with a friends MIG, but the stick welder is a different story. Ive been practicing with the little bugger and have been getting better but am still having some frustrations.

I strike the arc by running the stick like a match then lifting it to get the arc going. Most of the time however, the rod just sticks to the metal like a pit-bull. Also, there are other time where it wont strike an arc at all, and I have to bang the stick on the metal to chip some of the shielding material away to get my spark. Therefor im having trouble just making small tac welds.

For those of you that are proficient with arc welding, what tips can you give me? Is there a better way to strike the arc, hold the stick, whats a good angle, what is the best speed, and how far ahead of the puddle should my stick be when running a bead?

Thanks,

-Matt

 

I've found that a couple things make a difference when striking an arc. One is the type of rod you are using. Some rods are a little harder to get going, for me anyways. Second, I've found that a cold rod is harder to get going. A new rod for example. Once I get welding and the rod warms up, I don't have any problems striking an arc. I find that if I just short the rod to a piece of grounded metal and let the rod warm up a bit things go a lot smoother after that....

 

Matt, practice is the key to stick welding and lots of it if you started with a mig, start by welding flat, keep the rod at aprox.30 deg.angle, change amps, you'll find what the welder and rod "like". Use dry rod to start 6013 is fairly easy rod to flat weld with, when you start the arc it's very much like striking a big match slowly, get the arc started then stay with it, don't push back into the puddle, just a slow go in the direction thats comfortable for you, if you need a fast start use your GLOVES, and you better be wearing 'um to break the flux at the very tip of the rod, more later, trapper

 

Yep, breaking the glassy-like flux off the end of the electrode with your glove will soon get to be automatic.

My beads improved and the tendancy to stick the rod diminished when I started welding with two hands. That is, by using my free hand to point the electrode and help control the gap when striking the arc.

Sticking the electrode is part of the learing curve and as you gain experience it becomes less and less frequent. A few things to keep in mind to help minimize sticking is to always make sure your ground is good and select the correct amperage for the size electrode and workpiece. Bad ground or too low amperage can cause sticking.

Once you strike the arc, hold the electrode slightly away from the workpiece until it builds up heat. Then lower it to the workpiece and start your bead. They say "don't watch the arc, watch the puddle." But really, you have to keep your eyes moving all the time. You have to watch the puddle, the bead and the joint all at the same time.

6013 is a good recommendation and it makes some pretty beads. It's also a better choice for thinner material. I find that 6013 likes a little gap between the electrode and the work. 7018 can be dragged on the edge of the flux or given a little gap. Holding an even gap is where your free hand comes in to control the electrode. 6011 works well with a 'whipping' motion, so you don't always need two hands for that. If your Lincoln is DC too, 6010 is a much better rod than 6011 and you'll get less spatter. and a nicer bead. 6010/6011 are very flexible and you can whip, weave or drag them. Don't whip with 6013 or 7018. It will cause flux inclusions in the weld.

Scott

 

Two hands. Now is that two hands on the stick clamp? Im thinking that by saying free hand that you are grabbing the stick itself while your welding and manipulating it. Wrong, right?

Also. You say strike the arc and hold it away from the work area until it gets hot. Could you elaborate? Hold it far away, etc...sorry, but i would have prefered a MIG, but it was free after all.

-Matt

 

Matt, yes hold the electrode itself with your free hand. Just lightly between two fingers so you can feed the electrode forward as it consumes. As the electrode gets shorter your fingers slide closer to the electrode holder. If you're welding horizontal, you can rest the wrist of your free hand on the bench and your beads will get a lot straighter. If your starting out with only 1/2 an electrode or need to get it into a tight spot, put your hand on the top of the electrode holder. Think of it like holding a pistol with two hands or benchresting a rifle. Your accuracy impoves!

Hard to say exactly how far away to hold the electrode after striking the arc. But it's safe to say if it goes out, it's too far away! Try about 1/2 to 3/4 inch. Take a rod and practice with it. You shouldn't lay down any weld metal. Just a lot of spatter!

Scott

 

I don't know if your welder is AC or DC or both but make sure your rods are compatible. I was having a problem with some 7018's on an AC welder and it turned out that they were not 7018A's which are for an AC welder like the one I use.

With the 7018's I touch them to the workpiece at about a 30° angle and tilt it up towards 90°, when it starts to arc I tilt it quickly back down to about 30° and start dragging it. On this welder they work best at about 110 amps, maybe a touch lower if I need to keep the puddle molten a bit longer to boil out rust and other junk.

I also use the two hand method but I have both hands on the handle like a two handed grip on a pistol; this helps with stability as I'm welding on the edge of augers flights that are about 3/16" to build them up. Also I can't hold the hardfacing rods we have because the flux is very thin and they get quite hot so I just got used to holding the handle.

 

When you go to re-light the rod, if you strike it lightly on cement a couple of times, you will break that bit of slag off and have an easier time lighting it off again.

 

That is a nice tip Jared as well as the two hand hold. I shake so bad that the only way I can weld is with two hands and a half electrode. I have held the stick with my fingers at times but most of the time I just use two hands on the holder.

Another thing that helps is to get an automatic welding helmet. Being able to see everything is a big help.

Get yourself a book on welding from the home box store etc. Unless you weld everyday you forget which way to hold the stick or which way to move it as well as what rod to use and amp settings. I keep a few pages marked to check b4 every project.

 

Also remember the cleaner the steel the better the weld, trying to stick weld painted, or rusty steel is difficult even for old timers. Early on don't worry to much about looks, I can't stress enough to keep your rods DRY the flux coating on rods absorbs moisture like a sponge (7018 for example exposed to 80 perct. humidity for 2hrs. loses it's properties) you can still weld with it but it's not as good as it was. Rods kept in sealed containers work best. One more thing 'ya ever see a "welder" without a grinder?

 

anyone know of a website to get the specs on rods and amperage. I also have a lincoln A/c arc welder and would like to get more info. on rods and at what amperage they should be used. If welding thin pipe with 6013's is it better to have the amperage high(100+) or low(75 or lower)?
Thanks,
tex1313

 

Just google the mfg's name. Like 'lincoln electrodes' should bring up a ton of links.