Boil out the carb or replace it?
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Boil out the carb or replace it?
I am working on the fuel system of my '55 F250 that has been in storeage for over 15 years. As I tear into everything I'm finding that the old gasoline has turned to turpentine 
damaging my fuel pump and lines and now carb.
Is it better to replace the carb or rebuild it and have it "boiled" I have heard this term but I don't know what it means?
Are there any shops in the Spokane, WA area that you would recommend? or is this a service any auto repair facility could do?
damaging my fuel pump and lines and now carb.Is it better to replace the carb or rebuild it and have it "boiled" I have heard this term but I don't know what it means?
Are there any shops in the Spokane, WA area that you would recommend? or is this a service any auto repair facility could do?
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Joined: Mar 2000
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From: Waynesville, OH
I'd vote to rebuild it, but then, I like to rebuild rusted out mufflers.
One thing I noticed on another thread concerning "boiling out" carburetors. When I did the research on my little Holley 1100, the manual was very specific about NOT using acids or any chemicals that would attack the metal. They were also very specific about not using wire brushes on the surfaces or wires to "open up" internal passageways.
The reason they gave is that carburetors are plated to eliminate oxidation of the casting. If you remove that plating with an acid or alkali bath, or by brushing or sticking a wire in a passage, you are going to have a lot of problems - especially in the little internal passages as the casting oxidizes over time. That's why they make those gallon cans of solvent with the integral metal trays to soak carburetor parts. The chemicals are designed to trash dirt and grease (and any rubber/plastic gaskets, by the way), but not attack the plating or the casting metal.
One thing I noticed on another thread concerning "boiling out" carburetors. When I did the research on my little Holley 1100, the manual was very specific about NOT using acids or any chemicals that would attack the metal. They were also very specific about not using wire brushes on the surfaces or wires to "open up" internal passageways.
The reason they gave is that carburetors are plated to eliminate oxidation of the casting. If you remove that plating with an acid or alkali bath, or by brushing or sticking a wire in a passage, you are going to have a lot of problems - especially in the little internal passages as the casting oxidizes over time. That's why they make those gallon cans of solvent with the integral metal trays to soak carburetor parts. The chemicals are designed to trash dirt and grease (and any rubber/plastic gaskets, by the way), but not attack the plating or the casting metal.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Shasta Lake, Ca.
Boiling Out a varb should only be done by someone who is qualified to do it. I have been doint it for over 20 years.. And its not to be used on just any carb with out the proper equipment and knowledge, And on Carbs with plating on them, U have to use Sacrificial pieces so not to harm the carb.. And 99.99% Of Automovie Carbs dont need to be boiled out.. Just soaked and cleaned..
Fleet Owner
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From: NM
Boiled out = solvent bath
I've never seen anyone actually boil it in water, or any aqueous solution. Acetone does a wonderful job and as far as I know it won't hurt the plating. It will destroy any non-Viton rubber, but most plastics are OK. It is also excellent on the varnishes old gas will leave.
I've never seen anyone actually boil it in water, or any aqueous solution. Acetone does a wonderful job and as far as I know it won't hurt the plating. It will destroy any non-Viton rubber, but most plastics are OK. It is also excellent on the varnishes old gas will leave.
Posting Guru
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From: Shasta Lake, Ca.
Boiling out is a Acid bath @ 300F of sulfuric acid/muratic acid Mix. I use this a lot on marine carbs that have been exposed to salt water.. Or in the rare case a carb that just to varnished up from sitting around with gas in it...
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2000
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From: Waynesville, OH
I rebuilt mine without any special tools, but I did have to make a few minor modifications to a couple of screwdrivers to get them to fit through access holes to tighten the jet seats. I think I also had to grind a little on an old pair of needle nose pliers to get them to fit in the accelerator pump well. At any rate, I didn't buy anything special.
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Fleet Owner
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From: NM
Madathlon, I've never heard of that process! I can see where it would be appropriate for removing salt water corrosion. How do you get it to 300 deg.? Is it in a pressure pot? How long can you do that without it just dissolving the whole thing?
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Posting Guru
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From: Shasta Lake, Ca.
Its a pressure tank at about 20psi and its heated by a in tank electric heating element.. And Most carbs stay in for about 2 hours under agitation, Or up to 12 hours just sitting there.. I have had some in the tank for up to 48 hours.. Never had a carb dissolve away.. But have removed the chrome plating from a Holley once..
And this is not done by many shops anymore.. It is very hazardous And not for UnCertified Techs.. IT IS NOT FOR A DIY
And this is not done by many shops anymore.. It is very hazardous And not for UnCertified Techs.. IT IS NOT FOR A DIY
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From: Shasta Lake, Ca.
Originally Posted by fordcountry
Madathlon,
Do you run a business that does this type of service? If so, could the carb be sent to you for repairs? I would be interested in a quote to have this done.
Do you run a business that does this type of service? If so, could the carb be sent to you for repairs? I would be interested in a quote to have this done.
$1500 on a High end Merc Black max 300HP outboard.. I get all the cases where no other shop can fix it.. Being a Replacment carb for this enging can cost over $800 each.. My shop specialize in 2 stroke Rebuilds.. And Mods.. I have a Merc Black max 300HP outboard thats Really puts out 700+hp with all the mods I have in it..
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