I have a '72 F250 with a 360 engine all stock. When I shut the engine down when it is warm and wait a couple of minutes, the fuel starts boiling in the carburetor. When this happens, the only way I can get it started is to hold the accelerator to the floor and crank it for about 10 secs. How can I prevent this? I have heard about insulating carburetor spacers, but I can't seem to find any for a 2bbl carb.

Any help greatly appreciated.

Gene

 

First thing to do is to remove the heater hoses going to the spacer under the carb and bypass the spacer altogether. Try this to see if it helps. If it does, and you don't mind the re-engineering, then great. Or you can continue the search for a suitable spacer. I used one from a '68 Mustang with a 2bbl Holley and it works great.

Joe

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 22-Jul-02 AT 10:12 PM (EST)]My truck had the thick gasket when I bought it, but when I rebuilt the carb, it totally delaminated. I wanted to replace it, but had a very hard time finding the right part because it wasn't stock. I finally ran across a very good parts guy who was willing to work with me (SP Auto [San Pablo] in Richmond, CA). He had an old Felpro (or maybe it was Victor) catalog that listed the shapes, dimensions, and cross-references. We flipped pages until one matched. It's about a quarter of an inch thick.

It's FEL-PRO 60716, if I remember right. I think it was $6.79.
You can find it at your local parts place and if not then at www.partsamerica.com

The application we found for the thicker gasket/spacer is something like a '78 F350 with a 400M engine.

BTW, I pulled the hoses off of the heated PCV base, too -- not to reduce heat, but because the previous owner used only water and it was leaking pretty badly.

--Matt

 

Thanks Joe. I eliminated the water in the spacer and it seemed to help some, but it did not cure the problem completely. It now only takes 2-3 secs of full throttle cranking to get it to warm start. What kind of spacer were you talking about? What is it made of? Where did you get it? Deos it replace the original spacer, or add on the the current spacer?

Thanks,

Gene

 

Is the fuel actually boiling or is it merely overflowing out of the carb? I had the overflow problem one time on a 2bbl. I cured it by putting on a adjustable pressure regulator set at 3lbs.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 24-Jul-02 AT 10:38 PM (EST)]I also have a '72 with a 360. That existing aluminum spacer with the water passages is actually where the PCV enters the intake manifold, so it would be tough to eliminate it without finding another path for the PCV.

Here's a pic that shows the passages inside the aluminum spacer:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/displayimage.php?&photoid=6718&width=0

The extra spacer you want to add is made out of an insulating fiber material. It goes between the carb and that aluminum spacer.
It looks like a fat gasket -- about 1/4" thick.
Part Number: FEL-PRO 60716

--Matt

P.S., How's that for a shorter, clearer post? ;-)

 

>Thanks Joe. I eliminated the water in the spacer and it
>seemed to help some, but it did not cure the problem
>completely. It now only takes 2-3 secs of full throttle
>cranking to get it to warm start. What kind of spacer were
>you talking about? What is it made of? Where did you get
>it? Deos it replace the original spacer, or add on the the
>current spacer?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Gene

Hey Gene-

At least we know we're on the right track. I replaced the spacer with an aluminum spacer with a PCV port from a '68 Mustang. It looks exactly the same as your stock spacer except that it doesn't have the water ports. I found it on Ebay. You might get lucky and find another one there.

Another thing I've done after experiencing this problem is rebuild the carb. In my situation, fuel was getting hot in the fuel bowl and my rubber fuel line from the fuel pump. So I replaced the rubber fuel line with a metal one and rebuilt the carb. I figured the hot fuel in the line forcing it's way through the needle and seat could not be good for it, knowing that my needle had a rubber coating on it. After doing all this, I haven't experienced fuel boil-over.

Other problems could be that the power valve or your float level are bad. A blown power valve will cause fuel to leak into the manifold after the engine is shut off. You could try lowering your float to see if that helps also.

It can be a pain in the neck sometimes trying to fix up these old hoopies but they are worth the hassle in my opinion. It also helps to have this forum with many users with such a wide knowledge base.

GOOD LUCK- Keep us posted to what you did when you fix your problem.

Joe

 

That spacer you are refering to, Matt, is in fact an insulating gasket, not a spacer. They were used on later models. It would be beneficial to add it to the stock spacer, but you would have to lengthen the studs. I wouldn't recommend removing the stock spacer and using the gasket by itself as it might affect how the the engine responds to throttle.

Joe

 

Joe,
I agree. It's an insulating gasket. I was just going with the flow of what folks seemed to be calling things. I think mine may have already had the longer studs when I got it.

Man, you should have heard the whistle (vacuum leak) when I tried to reuse the original damaged insulator gasket -- it sounded someting between a tea kettle and a train! Whoohoo aren't these old Fords fun!!!

--Matt

 

Gene, A 1" thick phenolic spacer did wonders for the starting problems on my FE. It usually starts on the first 1/4 turn.
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John

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In the cool still quiet of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.

 

I had this problem on a couple of trucks. It turned out to be a sunk float both times.

 

John,
Can we get those 1" thick phenolic spacers for 2bbls, too, or are they just for the 4bbl guys? Who makes them?
Thanks.

--Matt

 

Holley's website shows that they offer one, so there is at least one available. I think Jegs might offer it for sale. The only thing about it is that you must have a PCV port on your carb already in order to use an aftermarket spacer or you won't be able to hookup your PCV valve. I suppose you could use breathers on your valve covers but depending on your location, a PCV valve has to be present in order to pass inspection.

Joe

 

Matt, I'm not sure, I got mine from Summitt. You might check with them. I am thinking about using one made out of hardwood under my 2 barrel on my fresh 390 when I install it.
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In the cool still quiet of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 25-Jul-02 AT 09:14 PM (EST)]Cool! John and Joe, you guys are a great resource!

I found these at the Holley website:
Part # 17-72 Phenolic Insulators/Spacers 1" height, 2300 flange, 1- 11/16" bores ($30 at Summit)
and
Part # 17-71 Phenolic Insulators/Spacers 1/2" height, 2300 flange, 1-11/16" bores ($25 at Summit)

I swear I had checked their site last fall when my insulating gasket went bad. Oh well...

If I go that route, I'll probably keep the aluminum PVC adapter on the bottom (I found a good junkyard replacement) and add the phenolic to the top of the stack with longer studs. That would make for a heck of a carb tower in the middle of the manifold! Maybe I'll compromise and order the 1/2" version. We'll see. Then maybe a 6-71 roots-type blower, and then...

Hey, that wood idea is pretty cool. I once heard someone made a tranny adapter out of wood for CJ amd it worked pretty well.


Thanks again!

--Matt