Compressor. Leave Charged or ???
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From: USA
Compressor. Leave Charged or ???
I have a 6HP/33 Gal upright Sears compressor (Ingersol Rand).
I don't use it very often.
My question is... Should I leave it charged up, or should I air it down after each use?
If it should be aired down, should I leave the bottom bleeder open or close it?
Right now I'm leaving it aired up and just removing the plug from the outlet. Saves the 5 minute charge time and probably wear and tear on the compressor.
Thanks
-Larry
I don't use it very often.
My question is... Should I leave it charged up, or should I air it down after each use?
If it should be aired down, should I leave the bottom bleeder open or close it?
Right now I'm leaving it aired up and just removing the plug from the outlet. Saves the 5 minute charge time and probably wear and tear on the compressor.
Thanks
-Larry
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From: Oregon
I've got the same model here at home and I've done it both ways. I usually like to air it down, but the darn thing is so loud I put on my ear muffs when it's charging. It also gets really hot and I'm kind of leary on how long it'll last with the long duty cycle to charge. I've been leaving it semi charged and just pulling the relief valve when I'm not going to use it for a while. Usually kicks back on at about 30#.
I installed the HF automatic drain bleeder a while back and it seems to work, (I kept forgetting to drain it and the last time I drained it, a quart of water seemed to come out - it was time.) It was worth the $7, well, $10 because I had to replace the nylon tubing that came with it. The aluminum control tube got so hot that it would melt/blow the tube at the T coupler. Copper holds up well and routes down the side of the tank nicely. I don't miss crawling under to drain it.
I installed the HF automatic drain bleeder a while back and it seems to work, (I kept forgetting to drain it and the last time I drained it, a quart of water seemed to come out - it was time.) It was worth the $7, well, $10 because I had to replace the nylon tubing that came with it. The aluminum control tube got so hot that it would melt/blow the tube at the T coupler. Copper holds up well and routes down the side of the tank nicely. I don't miss crawling under to drain it.
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From: West London, England
Hi Larry,
In my opinion release the bottom plug if you are not going to use it for a while
You will see how much water comes out
This will make your tank last longer (by reducing corrosion) and give you drier air
Stephen
In my opinion release the bottom plug if you are not going to use it for a while
You will see how much water comes out
This will make your tank last longer (by reducing corrosion) and give you drier air
Stephen
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From: Sapulpa OK
Hi Larry. I've worked with compressors all my life and in my opinion you should leave it charged. You will waste the energy used to pump it up if you release it. You should drain the moisture occasionally though. If you plan on moving it, say over to a buddies house in the back of a truck, you would want to drain it to prevent an accidental release of air and possably hurting someone.
Once you stop using it and the air inside the tank cools to room temp., drain the accumulated moisture and then no more moisture will collect unless further cooling takes place.
Once you stop using it and the air inside the tank cools to room temp., drain the accumulated moisture and then no more moisture will collect unless further cooling takes place.
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I use mine several times per week so I leave it on 24/7. I have not purchased the automatic bleeder so I drain it every couple of months. There is no rust problem in the tank based on the liquid I drain off. I do disconnect the power if everyone is going to be gone for a few days. Otherwise someone would here it running and check it. I have no leaks in the system so it does not run unless I am using it.
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I also leave mine charged and on all the time. Installed the HF automatic drain, and had no moisture problems thereafter. Also added a 220 volt clock timer so the thing can't switch itself on in the wee hours of the morning, causing household discord!
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From: Fleming Ga
I usually leave mine charged and turn off the valve between the compressor and my air lines so a slow leak doesn't discharge. Then if I need to put air in a tire, or do something quick like remove a bolt with the inpack then I already have enough air and don't have to turn the compressor on. I have an 80 gallon tank and this weekend I used it to drill 4 holes with an airdrill an used an impack to remove both gas tanks without turning on the compressor and I still have 130 pounds of air left.
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From: USA
Can you tell me more about this bleeder please? Exact name/model and where you got it?
Thanks
-Larry
Thanks
-Larry
Originally Posted by Howdy
I've got the same model here at home and I've done it both ways. I usually like to air it down, but the darn thing is so loud I put on my ear muffs when it's charging. It also gets really hot and I'm kind of leary on how long it'll last with the long duty cycle to charge. I've been leaving it semi charged and just pulling the relief valve when I'm not going to use it for a while. Usually kicks back on at about 30#.
I installed the HF automatic drain bleeder a while back and it seems to work, (I kept forgetting to drain it and the last time I drained it, a quart of water seemed to come out - it was time.) It was worth the $7, well, $10 because I had to replace the nylon tubing that came with it. The aluminum control tube got so hot that it would melt/blow the tube at the T coupler. Copper holds up well and routes down the side of the tank nicely. I don't miss crawling under to drain it.
I installed the HF automatic drain bleeder a while back and it seems to work, (I kept forgetting to drain it and the last time I drained it, a quart of water seemed to come out - it was time.) It was worth the $7, well, $10 because I had to replace the nylon tubing that came with it. The aluminum control tube got so hot that it would melt/blow the tube at the T coupler. Copper holds up well and routes down the side of the tank nicely. I don't miss crawling under to drain it.
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From: USA
Thanks for all the info guys!
Based on what I'm hearing, I will:
1. Buy the automatic bleeder, once I know exactly what/where/how it is.
2. Leave it charged and unplugged.
3. Open the valive to drain the tank once a week, and after each use (after it has cooled).
4. Air it down before moving to prevent unintentional torpedo hits on nearby people/objects/grounded submarines
Thanks!
-Larry
Based on what I'm hearing, I will:
1. Buy the automatic bleeder, once I know exactly what/where/how it is.
2. Leave it charged and unplugged.
3. Open the valive to drain the tank once a week, and after each use (after it has cooled).
4. Air it down before moving to prevent unintentional torpedo hits on nearby people/objects/grounded submarines
Thanks!
-Larry
Originally Posted by TruckLarry
Can you tell me more about this bleeder please? Exact name/model and where you got it?
Thanks
-Larry
Thanks
-Larry
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From: Oregon
I bought mine at Harbor Freight, I think Granger has one, too. It's basically a remote controlled valve you install at the drain valve on the tank. You run a line from this valve up and T into the control tube that goes to your cutoff switch. When the pressure releases it pulls in a diaphram that opens a needle valve at the drain momentarily, releasing the water. It also has a petcock on it to manually drain, if you want. (Better than the Sears, I could never get that on open without pliers.)
The one at HF came with a T fitting for nylon tubing. The Sears compressor has aluminum tubing. I tried fitting the nylon tubing that came with the kit to that, but it got hot and blow a hole in it the first fire up. Went all copper and haven't had a problem.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46960
Edit: Just noticed on the add the tubing is only good to 100 psi - that was the problem. The valve works fine, because it works off pressure differential.
The one at HF came with a T fitting for nylon tubing. The Sears compressor has aluminum tubing. I tried fitting the nylon tubing that came with the kit to that, but it got hot and blow a hole in it the first fire up. Went all copper and haven't had a problem.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46960
Edit: Just noticed on the add the tubing is only good to 100 psi - that was the problem. The valve works fine, because it works off pressure differential.
Last edited by Howdy; Apr 4, 2005 at 10:49 AM.
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