When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
ok does anyone have a how to on changing a compressor on a 2006 3.0 is it difficult and what are the steps any help would be appriciated it just isnt cooling like it should think its a weak compressor ,already changed orfice and have all equipment to charge it pump,evac and scale to weigh in charge it says 32 oz max and that is what I charged it to and best senerio is 67 degree air on a 90 degree day . I noticed it not cooling when I went to the outer banks now when I go 65 miles hr the temp goes down but as soon as I stop it climbs up and I can get a compressor for 200.00 so I want to replace it to asee if that is the problem
ok does anyone have a how to on changing a compressor on a 2006 3.0 is it difficult and what are the steps any help would be appriciated it just isnt cooling like it should think its a weak compressor ,already changed orfice and have all equipment to charge it pump,evac and scale to weigh in charge it says 32 oz max and that is what I charged it to and best senerio is 67 degree air on a 90 degree day . I noticed it not cooling when I went to the outer banks now when I go 65 miles hr the temp goes down but as soon as I stop it climbs up and I can get a compressor for 200.00 so I want to replace it to asee if that is the problem
Trial/error doesn't sound too good to me! You didn't mention if you had gauges, with them and some good books, you could diagnose the problem.
I had a similiar problem like that years ago in a old Chevy Blazer. The bag broke in the dryer and the left over pieces plug the expansion valve. It would work fair at high speeds but not at all at idle!
i have gauges but I guess it goes back to how tough is it to replace a compressor and I would replace the drier at that time also as the drier looks like its plug and play for $89.00 its not to bad. the car has 105000 miles and I think the compressor is just weak but I need input on changing the comp as I know it holds 32 oz of 134a and I have the vac pump and the reclaimer but I dont want to get into a compressor changeout if it is a serious job also where is the expansion valve on this vehicle as I changed the orfice already very cheap part 2.99 at advance auto damm didnt think nothing was that cheap any more .........
i have gauges but I guess it goes back to how tough is it to replace a compressor and I would replace the drier at that time also as the drier looks like its plug and play for $89.00 its not to bad. the car has 105000 miles and I think the compressor is just weak but I need input on changing the comp as I know it holds 32 oz of 134a and I have the vac pump and the reclaimer but I dont want to get into a compressor changeout if it is a serious job also where is the expansion valve on this vehicle as I changed the orfice already very cheap part 2.99 at advance auto damm didnt think nothing was that cheap any more .........
I have no idea where the expansion valve is. I just remember the problem which I "had" repaired way back then. It was pumped/refilled at least three times too. I was watching while it was pumped one time, all of a sudden there was a pop and a vacuum decrease on the guage. I asked the tech, what was that but he didn't know. He was covering for the expert who was off that day. The pop was pump pulling the junk out of the expansion valve. The next visit, the expert found the problem. The valve looks like a hugh sintered bronze carburator filter!
ok yesterday I did some checking and here is what I found ambiant temp was 88 and using a temp probe in vent at idle I had 63 air when I revved engine to around 1700 rpms it dropped to57 degrees but as soon as I went to idle it climbed back up to 63 to 64 humidity was quite high yesterday so my question could it just be a weak compressor as my pressure on gauge was about 45 to 47 psi and also the line going to front of engine BEFORE orfice tube was cold and sweating but right after the orface it was hot as hell is this normal??
ok yesterday I did some checking and here is what I found ambiant temp was 88 and using a temp probe in vent at idle I had 63 air when I revved engine to around 1700 rpms it dropped to57 degrees but as soon as I went to idle it climbed back up to 63 to 64 humidity was quite high yesterday so my question could it just be a weak compressor as my pressure on gauge was about 45 to 47 psi and also the line going to front of engine BEFORE orfice tube was cold and sweating but right after the orface it was hot as hell is this normal??
thanks
It's some years since I've worked on a auto AC system but as I remember, you a high side/low pressure side and need to read both. Get yourself a book from a library or buy one at a auto parts store.
ok heres what I did put gauges on at idle ambiant temp 86 low side 52 psi high side 285 psi 61 degree air at vent reved car to about 17oo rpm tried to hold steady low side went to 24 psi and high side went to 325 temp went down to 58 59 so does this help in trying to figure out whats wrong with my a/c as I can wrench with the best but when it comes to a/c I'm dumber than a box of rocks . Does this senerio seem normal?
I guess you must be searching for the "holy grail of AC"... :-) What makes you think that your AC isn't functioning correctly. From your data, 90 -> 67, I am not sure you can expect much more.
Your high side pressure is kind of high, try taking your garden hose and spraying the condensor to clean it. You can usually get the A/C system to blow colder by doing this if the condensor is dirty.
... and also the line going to front of engine BEFORE orfice tube was cold and sweating but right after the orface it was hot as hell is this normal??
Are you sure you were looking at the line correctly? That's exactly backward.
The line should be hot up to the orifice then cold as it enters the evaporator.
If the line is actually cool before the orifice, that would indicate a blockage somewhere before the orifice.
Feel the line coming out of the condenser, it should be hot. Follow it untio it gets cold, that's where the blockage is. If it's cool coming out of the condenser, there is a blockage in the condenser.
This really sounds like an airflow issue over the condenser. Clean the condenser with a strong soap like Simple Green or Purple Power and your garden hose and see if the pressures/vent temps improve. If you can, clean between the condenser and radiator.
... and also the line going to front of engine BEFORE orfice tube was cold and sweating but right after the orface it was hot as hell is this normal??
Are you sure you were looking at the line correctly? That's exactly backward.
The line should be hot up to the orifice then cold as it enters the evaporator.
If the line is actually cool before the orifice, that would indicate a blockage somewhere before the orifice.
Feel the line coming out of the condenser, it should be hot. Follow it untio it gets cold, that's where the blockage is. If it's cool coming out of the condenser, there is a blockage in the condenser.
This really sounds like an airflow issue over the condenser. Clean the condenser with a strong soap like Simple Green or Purple Power and your garden hose and see if the pressures/vent temps improve. If you can, clean between the condenser and radiator.
the line towards front of car after the orfice tube is hot and towards the firewall after the office tube is cold and sweating I did replace the orfice tube by the way
the line towards front of car after the orfice tube is hot and towards the firewall after the office tube is cold and sweating I did replace the orfice tube by the way
You're looking at it backwards. The hot refrigerant flows from the condenser, through the orifice where it gets cold,then into the evaporator. What you are seeing is normal.
Clean the condenser and post back.