I posted in the tranny forum, but got nothing so far.
I've agot a C6 behind my 446 cube FE engine in my 67/69 F250. The tranny was rebuilt less than 10,000 miles ago, and it runs well. I'd like to get the shifts a little quicker and the shifting RPM at WOT up around 5500rpm.

I know very little about transmissions. Any suggestions on how to optimize this tranny? It's a 4600lb truck, with approximiately 500 HP, 550 lb-ft of torque. It's a street/strip 3/4 ton truck, that still needs to act like a truck. Yes, I do want to have my cake an eat it to :-) I've paid twice for both.

I just got my B&M truck Megashifter and a TCI Torque Converter that should give me a 2200rpm stall. Per their reccomendations that should be the best TC for my application.

Any advice on optimizing this C6 is greatly appreciated.

I also busted the top off one of the engine Boss alignment holes in the tranny bell-housing. About half of the arch is missing. The other boss hole and all bolt holes are intact. Do I need to make an effort to repair that opening?

 

Here is a pic of the broken boss hole:

http://www.thedreyerfamily.com/69f25...mbly032005.htm

 

I sent you a PM a few days ago about some of your planned improvements but I think it got lost in cyberspace. Let me know and I can resend it.

Anyway, these guys have a bunch of HP C6 parts.

http://www.redrider.us/ford_c6_parts.htm

I got the super servo, hi-cap drum, and some of the other stuff when I rebuilt my C6. As for your shift point, you can get an adjustable modulator but I don't think you'll ever convince the C6 to wait that long to shift. Get a shift light and use the rachet mode of your shifter on the track to shift manually. That way you'll stay driveable on the street.

I don't think the broken alignment hole is an issue. Just be extra careful checking everything before you bolt up. If you're worried you can probably get another tranny case for a few bucks.

 

Greg..I know of guy's that have cut ears off the bell housing to allow for mini starters!1 with no issue...and the Modulator I have in my C6 for the truck is a Black stripe around it..its made for our trucks....If ya go to a parts house..dont let them sell you one for the Cars..they have a green and a purple stipe on those!!

Mine is the screw in type in the back of the tranny..and has a vacuum line to it... Pull the line from the modulator un-screw the modulator from the trans...dont loose the 2" long rod inside it... slide the rod back in the new one and hook up your Vacuum line...and go for a road test...Mine was $15 and has an adjustable screw inside the Vacuum hole for changing shift points....with mine the Higher the shift point the firmer the shift..but this was before I went all TransGo Valve body..too.....

Hope this helps....By the way..I had to go to a dealer to get mine?? all the locals had where ones for cars??

Russ

 

thanks guys. I keep forgetting I'm also installing the B&M shifter. That ought to solve my shift RPM problems. I think the shifts ar epretty crisp. But, when a lot of you saw the videos you said it sounded liek a slow shift. But, I think that was operator meets clumsy column shifter error. I may just put it back together with the new shifter and torque converter and see what happens.

Unfortunately, installing the shifter has opened a whole new can of worms. Might as well, pull the carpet and replace it, paint the interior and install a new seat while I'm at it........it never ends. This will be a $50k truck before i get done.

Now, I'm scrubbing carbon deposits off the pistons and heads....Really makes me want that Holley fuel injection setup.....hmmmm...might as well...

 

Greg...How many beers have you had this Morning??? LMAO!!! I've had 2 buts its 2:30pm... LOL!! I should go down there just to slap you!!! LOL.

You need to call the Cat that Built your tranny...The last time my C6 was rebuilt and the first time....A guy out in Cal..that runs Browns HP Torque Covertors Built it?? HA-HA-HA... Charged me $750 and said he did a $1000 jobs to it??

My Tranny guy Now is in Michigan...in Holland to be exact... He tore it apart and sent me the Photos before it was shipped back...the only thing that was done for $750...New clutches were put in and a new 2nd gear servo (stock)

I hope your tranny man did better by you than my Old one!! I got the C6 back from Michigan.....New red clutches..new band(not kevlar) but HD Stainless band...new R servo..deep pan...Transgo shift kit...(not Valve body) and Adjustable black band Modulator!! Just for the price of the shipping!!

He wanted to show me just how He..did the work..and how it should be done... I have sent Guys to him that are running 1000+HP..and they havent broke one of his trannies yet!! I show you the pics of my Buddy in AZ..with the 5000# Bronco pulling the wheel off the ground..He built that tranny!!

And he runs a small shop...But build for alot of people that he cant mention there names!! But I can...LOL....

Shoot ..I wrote a book!!! Sorry guys!!

Oh yeah..and He also did the one for the 2800# hotrod too!! Full roller!!

Russ

 

Greg, run the carburetor. If you get the fuel injection, you'll be screwing around with it for YEARS trying to figure out why it wont idle worth a d***. If I had the chance to go back in time, I never would have bought mine, if that tells you anything. I'm sure there is a way to figure it out and make it work, but it seems to be beyond me. Change one thing, it affects 10 other things. Make it idle when the coolant is 45 degrees, then it wont run down the road right. Adjust the rate of change of throttle position compensation, and the next day when it's 20 degrees colder, and you stomp it it backfires once and dies! Trust me, it sucks. Run your carburetor and be happy.

Ok?

 

thanks, you probably saved me thousands of bucks and hours of work! I'll get it back together, then spend a night buying beers for Strokster to help me adjust the carb :-)


I've got most of the carbon depsosits removed from the heads and pistons....napa responded finally saying they didn't have an ETA for the gaskets....And I have not heard from Erson...

 

Greg How did ya finally decide to clean the carborn off???

 

Carb cleaner, and a wire wheel on my cordless drill, shop vac, repeat as needed. I think I nicked one piston top with the end of the drill or something. Do I need to try and polish/buff that out?

 

I don't think I ever got your PM....virtual Gremlins...

 

Carefully blend the nick back into the piston dome. Don't remove to much material trying to get it perfect. It's most important to make sure you don't leave any sharp edge.

Your carb is pretty close. A bit fat all around, but very safe. You could probably drop a few jet sizes and clean it up a bit. Especially since you have the air fuel guages in the cab.