If I remember correctly, mine is in the interior fuse block just inside the driver's door at dash height. My guess though is that this wouldn't be an intermittent problem. As long as the PCM was out the engine would never start.

 

Yeah, I would think that if the Computer fuse was blown, it would not be an "intermittant" problem, but a constant one.

I was thinking the PCM might be something else like Primary Cranking Management or Pretty Crummy Motor.

 

I've got the same problem with a 98 XLT would not start tried switching relays around nothing had it towed home as soon as the driver dropped it in my driveway it started. I was thinking fuel pump too but now I think I'll try the EEC relay first. P.S. looked for access to pump through the cabin none there have to drop tank.

 

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Mine would do the same thing, start after awhile. Never would hear the pump tho when it would not start. It's been about 3 weeks now and starts every time since I replaced the EEC. Try it.

 

This is great! I found this thread after dealing with this same problem for about 1 yr. I was about to purchase a new fuel pump when I found this thread and let you know what happens.

 

After reading these threads I checked all the fuses in the Power Distribution box. I did a continuity check on the EEC System #5 Diode. Now...how do you check or TEST to see if the EEC Power Relay is bad? I switched the A/C W.O.T. Relay with the Fuel Pump Relay and nothing transpired. Is it OK to switch either of these in place of the EEC Power Relay? There is a slight difference in model numbers but they look like the sockets are same. Any suggestions???

Thanks

 

Since I wrote this I have also changed the pump in my 94 and it only took me 2 hours. Additionally I would recommend that you inspect the fuel and break lines that run behind the tank. If they are even remotely suspect change them out now or you will have to drop the tank again. On the good side of things I used antisese on all the nuts and bolts that hold the tank in place so the removal for the tank in the 94 for the 2nd time in a month took less than fifteen minutes.
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From Thred @ https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...hreadid=148475


dsmith1484
Senior User Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 147

I to have had this problem. Technically you have to only replace the sending unit (the part that mounts in to the top of the tank) and swap over your fuel pump that mounts on to the sending unit.

Now that being said you will probably not be able to find just a sending unit with out the pump. It is sold as a complete assembly. I just did mine and paid a little over $100 for the complete pump and sending unit.

The following is my list of things that I wish I had known about before I replaced the sending unit/pump. They are not meant as instructions and they are not in order. They are listed as they came to mind.

Ok Here we go.

1. If you have a skid plate under the tank (I think all Explorers do both my wifes 91 eb and my 94 xlt have one) you will have to remove this first. Incorporated into the skid plate is one of the tank straps. The second strap is under the skid plate.

2. Before you remove the skid plate there are several pieces of sheet metal at the front of the tank that also have to be unbolted. you will also have to unbolt the filler neck from the rear fender (three bolts inside the filler door) that surround the gas cap

3. The two bolts that secure the straps are on LONG fine thread studs. I recommend using a good penetrating oil on these several times the day before the removal to help loosen them up. If you have access to air tools this is one place where they really help (mine were in my shop so I had to do this by hand) it seamed to take for ever to spin the nut's off. Ohya you will need deep dish sockets

4. You can see the top of the tank/sending unit through the wheel well if you jack up the truck on the tank side and look in with a flashlight. Have an assistant turn the ignition on and off cycling the fuel pump on and off while you are looking in there. IF it is leaking you will see it.

5 You can do this in the driveway. I put my exp up in ramps (one front and one rear) and then climbed under and unbolted it. Considering that you are dealing with fuel I would recommend doing this outside.

6. If you do have a leak you will not need to depressurize the fuel system. The leak will do this for you.

7. When you get your new sending unit/pump assembly make sure to get a new retainer ring. The one holding your unit in will be rusted and will probably get mangled when you take it out. It is ok to mangle the ring just be careful not to mangle the metal tangs it slides under that are mounted to the tank. Also make sure that the sending unit comes with a new o ring that seals the unit to the tank. This is sometimes also included with the new clamp ring.

8. Before you take the old unit out of the tank make sure that you clean the area around the sending unit completely. NOW BE CAREFUL A steel wire brush can create a spark and this could be a problem. I use a brass brush to do this and what ever you do not use a wire brush attached to a drill. I nylon scrub brush may be an alternative but I ahve not tried this and don’t know if static could be a problem. The reason you clean this before you remove it is that all the rust and dirt WILL get in to the tank when you remove the unit.

9. I have the Chiltons manual reading this before you do this project was helpful however it makes it seam like a 1/2 hour job. IT IS NOT. I think it took me 4 hours but this included two trips to the parts store. (The second was for the new metal ring that holds the unit in the tank).

10. While you are under the truck inspect the fuel lines and return lines and evap lines. I found a crimped evap line that I fixed.

11. The result of this repair was a significant increase in MPG and a much better running truck (fuel pressure was restored to normal)

12. Get/borrow the tool for releasing the fuel lines from the sending unit. Yes you can get these things off with out it but if you damage the fitting you have to replace the lines. With the tool it is a 15-second deal. My local parts store has these as part of fuel line tool kit that they loan to customers.

13 This is not a hard repair in fact it was easier than some of the other things I have done to my exp. But remember you are dealing with fuel and the vapors are VERY explosive. An empty tank full of fumes scares me more than a tank full of fuel. So just be careful. Think through what you are doing before you do it and you should not have a problem.

14. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY CABLES BEFORE YOU START !!!!!

15. In case you did not know the fuel tank is plastic so unless it is mechanically damaged it it is not a rusted tank. I have replaced many rusted steel tanks and though this was cool. something Ford got rite!!!!!

I hope this helps. If you need more info just ask. If something else comes to mind I will post it.

Respectfully,



Dean

94 XLT 4WD - His
91 EB 4WD - Hers (with new fuel pump and sending unit)

 

I have posted this in other threads so you may have seen it before.

I replaced the ECC Relay (under the hood in the black electrical box) in our 94 Explorer over two weeks ago and my son has not had a single starting problem since. He was having the intermittent starting problem several times a week before the relay change. It got so bad that he would leave the engine running for long periods rather than turning it off and take a chance on it not starting.

I believe this has solved our starting problem. I am taking the fuel pump back to the parts store. I don't think I need it now!!!!

 

I've been putting up with this problem for over a year. I bought a new EEC at NAPA for $5.95 and it took me 2 minutes to install. I haven't had the problem for 2 weeks now. Thanks Guys.

 

That is GREAT NEWS!!!! Keep us posted


Respectfully


Dean

 

I have the same problem on my 92 exp. I found three relays under the power distribution box, but they have no labels! The box doesn't have any labels, and neither Chiltons or my owners manual says anything about them? Can anyone tell me which is the EEC and which is the fuel pump relay? Also, what is the third relay? Thanks.

 

Look at the wiring and check for the following color leads. Note: The tracer colors may vary somewhat.
1. EEC Power relay,4 leads; Red, Black/white stripe, Red/ Light Green, Yellow
2. WOT (wide open throttle) relay, 4 leads; Red, Pink/ Yellow, Dark Green/ Orange, (unknown)
3. Fuel Pump relay, 4 leads; Red, Light Blue/ Orange, Black/ Yellow, Dark Green/ Yellow

Your relays may have a plastic key making them non-interchangeable, but the replacements you can buy will fit in any of the connectors.
Autozone has them for around 12-13 dollars and the part number is "MR12"

Dialtone

 

Well, replaced the ECC from Auto Zone at $5.99 and my 94 Explorer runs again!!! Thanks