Hi all,
I'm pretty much a newbie when it comes to auto repair so I thought I'd start here. I've got a '92 Explorer with a nasty gas leak. My regular mechanic is out of town for a while so I've got it off the road for now. I was wondering if anyone could give me some help with find out where the actual leak is. I would greatly appreciate any tips you can offer. Thanks a lot.

Rob

 

*Try cycling the key a few times to turn the fuel pump on (don't start the engine) and then look/smell for gasoline. Look under the truck and follow the fuel lines from the tank to the engine, looking for any wet spots and/or drips on the ground. Gas will evaporate quickly, especially in the heat, so you have to be speedy...(also wear eye protection and don't do this near any ignition source like appliances, etc.)

*-Not responsible for fire, explosion, bodily injury, property damage, etc...try this at your own risk.

 

haha u have the same promblem the 2 explorers that i have i can garentee that it is the bend on the metel pipe on the top of the gas tank right off of the fuel pump it rots out eather at the bend on the inside and or the clip that holds it in place under neathe u will have to drop the tank to see id it is if u smell gas from the gas tank area i will bet that is what it is i have seen this promblem twice and how many miles on it and is it out in the weather all the time or is it gargaed i need more info but that is what i think it is good luck

 

My wife has a '92 that had the exact same problem, replaced the sending unit and all better, it's definatly the bend comming out of the top of the tank.

 

can any one give me advice on removing a 91 explorer gas tank, i need to replace the sending unit. are there straps or brackets and is it a large plastic collar that holds the sending unit in place thanks a bunch

 

make sure when your ready to do this the gas tank is almost empty. get a floor jack and a 2x6 about 2 feel long set it up in the middle of the tank. Undo the straps where is bolts atach to the body. Lower the jack, disconect filler neck and all other lines going into the sending unit. The tank should be free from the truck !!

 

So what was replaced? The fuel pump, sending unit or gas tank? I just found that very same problem (and I'm really NOT happy about it!)

 

I to have had this problem. Technically you have to only replace the sending unit (the part that mounts in to the top of the tank) and swap over your fuel pump that mounts on to the sending unit.

Now that being said you will probably not be able to find just a sending unit with out the pump. It is sold as a complete assembly. I just did mine and paid a little over $100 for the complete pump and sending unit.

The following is my list of things that I wish I had known about before I replaced the sending unit/pump. They are not ment as instructions and they are not in order. They are listed as they came to mind.

Ok Here we go.

1. If you have a skid plate under the tank (I think all Explorers do both my wifes 91 eb and my 94 xlt have one) you will have to remove this first. Incorporated into the skid plate is one of the tank straps. The second strap is under the skid plate.

2. Before you remove the skid plate there are several pieces of sheet metal at the front of the tank that also have to be unbolted. you will also have to unbolt the filler neck from the rear fender (three bolts inside the filler door) that souround the gass cap

3. The two bolts that secure the straps are on LONG fine thread studs. I recommend using a good penetrating oil on these several times the day before the removal to help loosen them up. If you have access to air tools this is one place where they really help (mine were in my shop so I had to do this by hand) it seamed to take for ever to spin the nut's off. Ohya you will need deep dish sockets

4. You can see the top of the tank/sending unit through the wheel well if you jack up the truck on the tank side and look in with a flashlight. Have an assistant turn the ignition on and off cycling the fuel pump on and off while you are looking in there. IF it is leaking you will see it.

5 You can do this in the driveway. I put my exp up in ramps (one front and one rear) and then climbed under and unbolted it. Considering that you are dealing with fuel I would recommend doing this outside.

6. If you do have a leak you will not need to depressurize the fuel system. The leak will do this for you.

7. When you get your new sending unit/pump assembly make sure to get a new retainer ring. The one holding your unit in will be rusted and will probably get mangled when you take it out. It is ok to mangle the ring just be careful not to mangle the metal tangs it slides under that are mounted to the tank. Also make sure that the sending unit comes with a new o ring that seals the unit to the tank. This is sometimes also included with the new clamp ring.

8. Before you take the old unit out of the tank make sure that you clean the area around the sending unit completely. NOW BE CAREFUL A steel wire brush can create a spark and this could be a problem. I use a brass brush to do this and what ever you do not use a wire brush attached to a drill. I nylon scrub brush may be an alternative but I ahve not tryed this and dont know if stadic could be a problem. The reason you clean this before you remove it is that all the rust and dirt WILL get in to the tank when you remove the unit.

9. I have the Chiltons manual reading this before you do this project was helpful however it makes it seam like a 1/2 hour job. IT IS NOT. I think it took me 4 hours but this included two trips to the parts store. (The second was for the new metal ring that holds the unit in the tank).

10. While you are under the truck inspect the fuel lines and return lines and evap lines. I found a crimped evap line that I fixed.

11. The result of this repair was a significant increase in MPG and a much better running truck (fuel pressure was restored to normal)

12. Get/borrow the tool for releasing the fuel lines from the sending unit. Yes you can get these things off with out it but if you damage the fitting you have to replace the lines. With the tool it is a 15-second deal. My local parts store has these as part of fuel line tool kit that they loan to customers.

13 This is not a hard repair in fact it was easier than some of the other things I have done to my exp. But remember you are dealing with fuel and the vapors are VERY explosive. An empty tank full of fumes scares me more than a tank full of fuel. So just be careful. Think through what you are doing before you do it and you should not have a problem.

14. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY CABLES BEFORE YOU START !!!!!

15. In case you did not know the fuel tank is plastic so unless it is mechanically dammaged it it is not a rusted tank. I have replaced many rusted steel tanks and thaugh this was cool. somthing Ford got rite!!!!!

I hope this helps. If you need more info just ask. If somthing else comes to mind I wll post it.

Respectfully,



Dean

94 XLT 4WD - His
91 EB 4WD - Hers (with new fuel pump and sending unit)

 

no i dont belive the tank would be good plasic because if you offroad and hit a rock or somthing you can puncture the tank easyer than a steel one but they both have thier + or -

 

Thanks for all of the info. I em'd a buddy of mine who is a mechanic, and am going to talk to him tonight about this. Hopefully he has a saturday free in the next few weeks. Even if I could find just the sending unit, I think that I'd still swap everything out while the tank is down. It sounds like not a lot of fun to remove the tank!

 

Good luck!!!! With the replacement

RE plastic tanks:

I guess I need to qualify my statement. I agree that a plastic tank alone would definitely not be a good thing. My race car has a plastic bladder surrounded by steel other wise know as a fuel cell. This is the same design that as those used in NASCAR. This in turn is very similar to the Explorers design. Trust me making it plastic surrounded by metal is a GOOD thing.

The metal takes the point loading (the skid plate and the side panels that surround the plastic tank in the explorer) and the plastic reduces or eliminates splitting open and the dumping of fuel (the plastic tank in the explorer) when crushed.

Hope this clarifies my previous statement. I also just liked the fact that it will not rust. I have changed more rusted tanks than I can remember.

Dean