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Old Mar 21, 2005 | 11:46 AM
  #1  
Chris Ricci's Avatar
Chris Ricci
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From: Firestone, Colorado
Rear Differential Question

I'm new to the forum, have only limited mechanical knowledge and need some insight concerning the rear dif. I've got a 2000 F250 4x4 Powerstroke with an open rear differential. I live in Colorado, went elk hunting last November and the truck didn't have the traction I would have liked on the mountain jeep roads. It was actually a bit hair raising on a couple of occasions.

I'd like to set up the truck to have decent traction on the occasional mining or jeep road. Clearly, snow is also a factor. I drive it frequently on highways and definitely need it to be road friendly. Can anyone recommend a good all around locker or limited slip? A locker that can be activated or deactivated from the cab appeals to me, but again I have only limited knowledge.
 

Last edited by Chris Ricci; Mar 21, 2005 at 11:57 AM.
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Old Mar 21, 2005 | 12:08 PM
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From: colorado
your truck has a 10.5" sterling rear end. LS and lockers for it are limited. if you want to be able to lock it at will form the cab then get an ARB air locker. it is one of the best units on the market and also the most expensive. your other options are a detroit locker which is a full locker, it can be a little twichy on the street and will make a little noise around corners. another option is an auburn LS, it will be more streetable than the detroit, no noise or anything it will provide much better traction (even alot better than a factory LS). i also hunt in colorado (i see you live about 10 miles east of me) and i can tell you for alot less money 2 pair of good tire chains will get you alot more traction then anything you can put in the diffs.

ps. how did you do this year. we hunt up near bufford (about 35mi south of craig) we got skuned for the first time in about 10 years
 
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Old Mar 21, 2005 | 12:18 PM
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Thanks for the reply wlihntr. I'll try the chains at a minimum. We came home empty handed from the Granby area. That's the last time I go in the 4th season.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2005 | 12:31 PM
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Lockers

Lockers

LockRight, EZ-locker - Cheap (not a full case locker, only replaces spiders), locked when driving straight, allows differentiation when turning, you will hear a clicking sound when turning at low speeds.

Detroit - Similar in operation to a LockRight/EZ-Locker but is a full case locker. Detroits are known to be an extremely strong locker. Some clicking/clunking will be heard when driving on the street.

ARB - Expensive, able to be turned on/off via a dash switch, locked solid when activated, acts as an open diff when disengaged. Gears will need to be reset because the ARB is a full case locker (stronger than lunchbox-type lockers).

Detroit Electrac - Expensive, able to be turned on/off via a dash switch, locked solid when activated, acts as a limited slip when de-activated. Full case locker.

Detroit Tru-Trac - Limited slip
 
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Old Mar 21, 2005 | 12:36 PM
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If you only need ocaonal traction get 4 good chains. with chians on all 4 it realy wont matter what dif you have and by far the cheepest. . I had a f-150 with an open 3.55 If I chained up all 4 I never had any probalems in rough country, I even pulled out a f-550 that was stuck with 2tons of hay on the back. J
 
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Old Mar 21, 2005 | 01:10 PM
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"ARB - Expensive, able to be turned on/off via a dash switch, locked solid when activated, acts as an open diff when disengaged. Gears will need to be reset because the ARB is a full case locker (stronger than lunchbox-type lockers)."

What do you mean by the 'Gears need to be reset'?

What is a 'full case' vs 'lunch box' type of locker.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2005 | 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Barnacle Bill
What do you mean by the 'Gears need to be reset'?

What is a 'full case' vs 'lunch box' type of locker.
A full case locker requires you to remove the ring gear from the stock carrier and mount it to the locker case.. The full-case locker COMPLETELY replaces the stock carrier and spiders. You often have to do so reshimming of the locker to get the backlash and contact patterns back into spec.

A lunch-box type locker simply replaces the spiders and side gears and the stock carrier remains. The ring gear is not disturbed.



FULL CASE (Detroit)



Full Case (ARB)





Lunchbox locker (LockRight)

 

Last edited by ErieJeepSteve; Mar 21, 2005 at 01:26 PM.
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Old May 20, 2005 | 09:33 PM
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As I described in a previous/other post, I changed my rear diff. fluid using the Valvoline Synthetic 75/140 Estreme LS (Limited Slip). I'd noticed my LS hadn't operated as well this last winter as the previous. I'd hoped the fluid change would help didn't add any Friction Modifier and haven't noticed any scrubbing or shuddering. Well yesterday I was backing up a small small small incline in my YARD in the rain and one tire started spinning. So, how much are these Full Case ARB Lockers and what kind of shop specializes in the install. Also, does the one slipping tire have to make a set amount of slipping rotations before the LS engages? As always, thanks in advance for any info.
 
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Old May 21, 2005 | 12:18 AM
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they way that I understand the LS option is that it will only make up for a limited amount of torque difference between the tires. i.e. they will never cover the difference between ice and pavement. The best solution that I am aware of is a some type of locker, personnally I like the air locker idea, this way as driving in town and such is much easier when you can turn it on and off, but maybe I just like control of things.
 
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Old May 21, 2005 | 07:36 AM
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Thanks cangim. After I posted my question in this thread I did about 3 hrs of reading in a "limited slip" search of this forum. And all I can really say is "wow" this limited-slip option isn't so good. I also did a google search for the ARB Locker. It looks like they run around $800 plus $200 for the compressor and then you still have the cost of the install. Again, wow. All because of Ford's poor design. If people only new that when they paid the $400 or $600 dollars on the option at the stealer. They could've got the open rear-end, save a little cash and got a locker. I know my buddy's duramax rear-end works like a charm. Maybe Ford should take note.
 
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Old May 21, 2005 | 07:52 AM
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From: South Dakota
Originally Posted by Chris Ricci
I'm new to the forum, have only limited mechanical knowledge and need some insight concerning the rear dif. I've got a 2000 F250 4x4 Powerstroke with an open rear differential. I live in Colorado, went elk hunting last November and the truck didn't have the traction I would have liked on the mountain jeep roads. It was actually a bit hair raising on a couple of occasions.

I'd like to set up the truck to have decent traction on the occasional mining or jeep road. Clearly, snow is also a factor. I drive it frequently on highways and definitely need it to be road friendly. Can anyone recommend a good all around locker or limited slip? A locker that can be activated or deactivated from the cab appeals to me, but again I have only limited knowledge.
Are you sure that you don't have a LS, did you check the Diff tag or jack up the rear and check the rotation of the tires?

Frankly I've never, ever seen a PSD that did not have a LS rear end. It could be possible that yours is either worn out (rare but possible), or has way too much additive.
 

Last edited by superrangerman2002; May 21, 2005 at 08:05 AM.
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Old May 21, 2005 | 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Orezona
As I described in a previous/other post, I changed my rear diff. fluid using the Valvoline Synthetic 75/140 Estreme LS (Limited Slip). I'd noticed my LS hadn't operated as well this last winter as the previous. I'd hoped the fluid change would help didn't add any Friction Modifier and haven't noticed any scrubbing or shuddering. Well yesterday I was backing up a small small small incline in my YARD in the rain and one tire started spinning. So, how much are these Full Case ARB Lockers and what kind of shop specializes in the install. Also, does the one slipping tire have to make a set amount of slipping rotations before the LS engages? As always, thanks in advance for any info.
Your problem is your gear oil. The Extreme is really meant for clutch packs that are extremely packed as seen in many strip Mustangs.

My suggestion reflects many of the local rear end shops in the area, Synthetics are just too slippery for a LS unit, and often lead to less than spectacular performance.

I'd reccomend dumping the fluid and using a conventional 85w140 and then add the additive until you get the performance you are after. Then I'd change it out every 30K mi.

On ice and snow, a factory LS will work great as long as you have the proper mix of additive and gear oil, and will require very little if any tire slip to engage the other tire.
 
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