Well project "TYMNBUX " has moved along and all the body parts are finished. Since I did not use the oriiginal clip ( or take apart), I now need to know the sequence for bolting the fenders,inners,air deflectors,and the header panel together. The pics I have are not to clear as to what overlaps what. I want to assemble in prime, align, and then remove for paint prior to reassembly.

 

Gavin -

I've had mine apart some (not completely), but I'll give this a shot. I would start with snugging the two attach bolts on the radiator support frame first. Center it. You may need to shim it up later. Next, the inner and outer fenders should be snugged up at the cowl attach points and the air dam connections between fenders and radiator support. Then lay the hood on. You'll need to attach the hinges to cowl and hood (or fenders and hood, if front-tilt).

Jockey everything for best fit of the hood at the cowl, first. Shim with washers at the two radiator attach bolts to align for the hood-to-cowl gap best fit. Again, just snug the bolts. Don't final tighten.

Then you can adjust the fender gap to the hood and tighten the bolts beginning at the cowl, then the fender inner/outer, then the air dam. Last thing to tighten would be the air dam-to-radiator support holes. I had to open some holes up a little to get enough adjustment. When you like the way it all fits, snug everything down.

A cool trick to repeat the setup later is to drill small holes (1/8) between the components and their mating parts when you like the rig. Then later, you can just pin those holes as you assemble. (I like to use clecos for this) It should all come right back to where it was. 2 holes per interface is bulletproof. That way, even though it is always a pain to do this rig, you won't have so much to do to when you reassemble. An especially good idea when you have all the stuff final painted.

You can also remove the entire clip (with help) as one piece, once you have it right. Just remove the radiator support bolts and the bolts at the inner/outer fender at the cowl and off it comes as one piece.

I've probably overlooked some details, but others will add their stuff to confuse this completely.

Rock on, Dude!

 

Thanks Randy.......

 

Good description Randy, I'll add only this.

Hood to cab alignment is step one (we'll not really but you know what I mean) But it does no good to align a hood to a crooked cab. Make sure the cab mounts are good and the cab sets pretty square and level to the frame. If a mount shim needs to be "engineered", now's the time.

I know we aren't hand building a Grandfather clock here, and I don't know how you can measure what I am describing precisely. But if cab level is off 3/4 inch from left to right, you're gonna pay for it in aggravation later. Like when your fender doesn't line up with a running board. Been there, done that.

Anybody else have bolt holes move on their body panels while the truck was disassembled?

 

No, but I've had a few new ones appear in the six or so years since I took Earl apart.

 

Just wait until you grind or blast what's left of the paint George. You may not drink now, but you'll consider it.

 

Hey Cabron, I've still got my front clip bolted together if you want to stop by and look. It's on the patio like lawn furniture. Give me a call if you still have my number.

 

Cedric, I do have your number........I thought your 56 was apart, but I was thinking of your project. I will call and make a date to take some pic's while I'm out there. Thanks. I will call.