When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am going to be re-assembling the doors to my "53 F100. I do not know if there is a proper sequence for putting things back together, but I assume that the order would be: 1) vent windows, 2) division bar, 3) strike-side and head window channel, 4) anti-rattle pieces, 5) window, 6) window operating hardware, 7) door latches, 8) door handle, lock and door operating hardware, 9) perimeter weather seal. Does this sound like the right re-assembly order?
I think you should install the door latch before the window operating hardware. The window needs to be all the way up and the strike side channel needs to be loose at the bottom to get the latch installed. This my you tube part 5. You'll probably be able to find parts 1 - 4 easily enough once you get to this one. There are likely better tutorials out there but I couldn't find much so that's why I made these.
I'm in the process of putting all my internals in my 53 doors now.I put the vent windows and division bar first then the anti rattle strips, then the door latches then the window and door regulators. Had to loosen the division bar to get one of the regulators in. (Can't remember which one). Then went to slide the glass in and had to move the division bar out of the way. So leave it loose. Worked on one door now just have to do the other one. Oh and I put in a solenoid to open the door before I put the glass in. (shaved handles)
Install the vent window, and all door latch hardware first.
Place the division bar in place, but do not attach it at this point.
Set the glass into the door.
Run the rear channel into the door from the top, being careful not to force it. The latching mechanism can damage it if you're too rough with it. Do not snap it in place yet.
Install the rear support bar, being sure that the tab on the window channel is seated fully into the groove on the support bar, and install screws holding support bar in place.
The rear window channel tabs can now be snapped into place. I found the best way is to grease the tabs a bit first, then a scrap piece of 1/4" steel placed in the channel at the tab spot and whacked with a rubber mallet works very well. Leave it loose across the top so you can still get the division bar in. (NOTE- If you ordered the channel with the stainless beads that hang out of the front end of the channel, I don't know what the right way to install those are, so I snipped them off tightly against the division bar.)
Tip the top of the division bar to the rear of the door, and slide the glass in place at the bottom, then tip the division bar in place, sandwiching the glass between the channels. At this point I only installed the one screw in the division bar at the center, to allow a bit of movement.
Slide the glass all the way to the top of the door and either tape or clamp it so it won't fall. Then install the regulator, roll it down to the bottom and bring the glass down to it. Once the rollers are attached, you can install the sweeps across the bottom of the opening.
The whole process took me just under an hour per door. Of course the second one is much faster once I figured out the procedure.
Last edited by AcesHigh; Jan 5, 2016 at 01:17 AM.
Reason: Kant Spel Fer Chit
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.